Cork to Kerry

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Wednesday 22nd June
The cloud cleared today, at least over the sea, and Annie, Brian and I drove to Glengarriff to get a boat to Garnish Island, the others having gone back home and to their boat. Garnish Island was developed at the beginning of the 20th century by the Bryce family who used it as their holiday home, the wife choosing to live here when her husband died. A horticulturalist was employed to develop the garden, to Harold Peto’s Arts and Crafts design, with plants from all over the world. He planted trees fringing the island which kept the microclimate enclosed, allowing tropical plants to thrive. There is an Italian garden, a walled garden, a Grecian temple, a small house and a Martello tower on the top of the island which gives 360 degree views.
We had a guided tour of the house by a delightful young Irish girl. Everything is how it was when the Bryce eldest son died, leaving it to the State for the benefit of all once the horticulturalist gardener and housekeeper died (in 1998).
Our boatmen showed us the nest of a pair of white tailed sea eagles in one of the trees on the edge of the island, and on the way back took us there again to see if the parents were back. They were; one in the next tree, and one of the top of a blasted tree on the tail of the island. The pair are part of a breeding programme introduced a few years ago as eagles have been extinct in Ireland for some years. Last year's chick choked on a bone, but they are hoping that this chick will survive. The boatman also showed us another island with seals basking in the sunshine.
Heavy grey clouds sat on the hilltops on the land but the island stayed bathed in sunshine.
The boatman told us a time he'd pick us up, but if we weren’t there, he'd come back half an hour later. ‘Whoever made Time made a lot of it,’ he said with that homespun logic that sounds naive but I think is actually pretty profound.
We chose the right day for the trip as the next few days are forecast showery.
The next day I set off, in the rain, again along the Caha Pass to Kenmare on the edge of the next peninsula Iveragh. This is a touristy town, with craft shops and market stalls and antique shops, but I can still park in the main street for free.
I have another very good seafood chowder in the Atlantic Bar, which celebrates J. Murphy of UK building contractor fame - apparently the owner of the pub worked with him in London.
County Kerry has more rolling hills and fewer rugged mountains. I drive along part of the Ring of Kerry, the road to Killarney is lovely by the lake and river. More of the Wild Atlantic Way takes me to Inch Strand - a kilometre long spit of packed sand that I can drive along and watch the surfers in the waves on the seaward side of the Strand. The van looks good there, with the hills in the background.
My first night in a campsite is on the north side of Dingle peninsula in Tralee Bay. I can't actually see the sea, but it's only 100 yards away, behind the dunes.

How can I have forgotten the important bit of Irish history i learned near Clonakilty in Cork, when I went to the Michael Collins museum? It consisted of a film and a slideshow with a guide, in a room of artefacts set up by a family, third cousins of ‘The Big Fella’. Now I want to see the film of his life. Poor Michael Collins, hung out to dry by de Valera, who wanted personal power more than freedom for Ireland.

Another night of pattering on the roof,but Friday is mostly dry, which doesn't suit my mood which is depressed hearing the Brexit news from home. Radio Kerry is full of how if may affect Ireland, though there is discussion that as Northern Ireland voted to remain in the EU, they may choose to reunite with Eire.

I drive across the Conor Pass to Dingle, this is single track for much of it, but with a low wall so I can see approaching traffic and there are passing places. Right on the top one can see in either direction - sea on both sides of the peninsula. Dingle is rammed with tourists and I see three other VW Bay campers, the first I've seen. There is a farmer's market there today so I stock up on provisions, and eat lunch further along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Then off to Tralee, which is bigger than any other town I've been to here. It seems seedier, and I have to pay for parking, but it has a Primark, called Penney’s, and I buy two tops because typically I haven't brought enough of the right sort of clothes.

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