Day 2; Caving, Snorkeling and Food Delicacies

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Artie/Arty was our guide for today on the Black and Blue tour (Lava caving and snorkelling), the first site was a large layby opposite a mountain. We equipped ourselves with crampons and helmets and set off with the group down a snowy path away from the mountain into the lava field to two crawl-holes in the ground, everyone gasped and was expecting an open cliff face to be the start of the cave. We had to slide in head first (JA found that out the hard way) like penguins or seals as the snow had blocked the entrance, once inside there was enough room to stand up. The cave was a lava tube; a tunnel created when the surface of a lava river solidifies before the rest. We walked straight-ish for a few minutes up to a map then went through a tight bit which opened up to huge icicles, we manoeuvred through to a large object protruding from the ceiling, much larger than the normal lava teats; this was described as being a rock stuck to the top from a lava wave or an air bubble that then popped. Each group member then put their heads in it for a picture; we were no exception. Arty got us to turn our head torches and shone a single light at the roof; the algae that grew in the cave reflected the light and shimmered. In complete darkness she told us all an Icelandic ghost story about a woman forced to abandon her baby in a lava tube, the story ended with Arty singing a spooky nursery rhyme which echoed through the pitch black. At this point we were half way round and to exit through the other hole we ventured down a new path, this included a very tight section which gave just enough room to roll in; I found this the easiest way to get through and lead by example. The crampons paid off on the exit as we had to climb up the snow mound that had gathered, once out everyone took a photo with an icicle at the exit.

We had a quick lunch at a service station at the entrance of Thingvellir National Park; the wind was severe and blowing snow around. There were other groups of divers and snorkelers just leaving when we arrived, we were equipped with a wollybear onesie and drysuit each to stay dry as the water temperature was 2 degrees Celsius. Arty wasn’t joining us so “Chuck” Norris was our new guide; he showed us the route we were taking and explained the relevance of the site (between two tectonic plates, growing 2cm each year), he helped people with their fins and entrance in the water in a drysuit then lead to group through Silfra. The water was extremely clear with views 40m away and almost made you forget the snowy environment, although by the end I couldn’t feel my toes or control the camera anymore. The wind pushed us along to the lake entrance so we only had to swim back to the exit; it was very relaxing and awe-inspiring.

Once we’d warmed up we walked in to Reykjavík to Icelandic Bar; a great little restaurant which was recommended by the guide, it was very popular and with good reason. I had a fruity larger due to a lack of cider but it was very nice, JA tried the beer; Viking pale ale being his favourite. I kept an eye for vacating couples so we weren’t waiting for a table too long, we tried fermented shark, puffin and their famous meat soup for starters; the puffin was slightly slimier and salty than expected and the shark’s smell is more noticeable than the taste! I had Minkie whale which is like a slightly fishy tender steak; perfect! It was a great meal but, like the rest of Iceland, expensive (£75).

BAM

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Photos

Black and Blue tour
Caving in lava tubes and snorkeling in Silfra

Food
Shark bits in the tall jar, puffin salad in the smaller one and meat soup