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Published: July 18th 2009
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Nature wins!
This used to be part of a bridge across the sands. And then, a flood wave came... In the morning, we're woken up by - rain! For the first time in over a week (aside from day 1 in Reykjavik), it's raining! So we decide to do what any rational person would: continue sleeping, and wait for it to ease off, which it does around 11. So we carefully pack up everything, have breakfast at a covered bench and table nearby, and head down to the ring road.
Seems like our idea worked: tail wind! And no more rain! How much better can it get! At this speed, we'll be in Kirkubæjarklaustur in a matter of a few hours, may even make it all the way to Vík today!
But somehow, we don't travel too fast: the landscape that only yesterday seemed dull when seen from the bus is now overwhelming. Feeling the cold air coming off the glacier, being in the middle of a massive black desert, with only a single bit of grass growing every now and then, seeing the completely straight road disappear on the horizon ahead is just too much to take in at once - so we stop every few minutes to take pictures, run down into the sand, or just look around.
As we continue to travel along, we realise that there is another reason we may not make it to Vík today: the wind has now turned, and is coming straight off the glacier, icecold and from the side instead of from behind. So much for fooling the wind...
Once we get to the end of the sand plains, the landscape changes immediately. No more desert, but green wherever we look, and at least 5 degrees warmer - what a change! We take a break in Nupstaðir, a small village built entirely from houses with grass roofs, and featuring Iceland's smallest church (also with a grass roof, of course).
On we go through green fields of grass, until there is another sudden change of scenery: just before Kirkubæjarklaustur, the road passes through lava fields. Once we get to the town, we pass the petrol station, and spot two touring bikes. Are they just leaving? Arriving?
We quickly find the campsite, and learn that the pool is open for only another hour. So, quickly, the tent is build up, the bathing suits are brought out, and we're on our way down the road, to the cleanest and most modern pool yet -
with a stunning view of the hills and waterfalls around Kirkubæjarklaustur. Best so far!
Back at the campsite, we have new neighbours - and immediately recognise the bikes from the petrol station. Hendrick and Carlo, two guys from Hamburg, and on their way to Skaftafell, soon become good friends, and we share a few beers and many more stories with them. Before we know it, it's midnight, and we fall into bed.
P.S. When I showed a friend the photos of the trip 2 weeks after getting back, she recognised Hendrick - he is the roommate of one of her friends in Hamburg. The world is small!
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