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Published: October 31st 2008
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Statue of Asclepius (God of Medicine)
Asclepius with his symbol, the serpent-entwined staff (origination of the medical symbol). The bus ride to the famous Meteora monastery region was relatively uneventful except for the sighting of cotton fields, which for us was a first. Fully aware that cotton grew on a shrub-like plant, picked and collected; it was still quite exciting to see it with our own eyes.
Our arrival to the city of Trikala (the city we stayed overnight) was greeted with dark clouds and rain. Fortunately, our optimism would not be discouraged- we heard that the area of Meteora was a must-see from a fellow traveler we met in Florence, Italy and we were not leaving until we experienced the ‘cliff top’ monasteries.
The six Orthodox monasteries are built on natural sandstone rock pillars so high that we were enthralled in learning that they had been built by baskets and rope, which together created an intricate pulley-system. The monks from the 11th century had originally seeked these rocky peaks as a refuge from the Turkish occupation. This location was perfect for the monks; they were safe from political upheaval and had complete control of the entry to the monastery. The only means of reaching it was by climbing a long ladder, which could be drawn up
Rocks of Meteora
Gorgeous even in the rain; take note of the moon! whenever the monks felt threatened. Although more than 20 monasteries were built originally only six remain today; five are inhabited by men, and one by women. We visited
The Holy Monastery of Varlaam, The Holy Monastery of St. Stephen (it was damaged by the Nazis during WWII who believed it was harboring rebels and was then abandoned, until nuns took it over and reconstructed it), and The Monastery of Holy Trinity (was the filming location in the 1981 James Bond movie "For Your Eyes Only").
After leaving the monasteries, in an effort to escape the chill and dampness, we met up with a friend of ours who took us for a ‘nes.’ (This is a local favourite which is simply comprised of Nescafe instant coffee with steamed milk -basically a cheap latte; kudos to Nescafe on the marketing scheme.) She educated us on life in Greece, obviously from a females’ standpoint. Highlights worth mentioning included the growing trend of women delaying marriage until their thirties, if not putting it off all together. Women are now living at home and focusing on their careers, until they hit mid-thirties where then it is a panic to start a family and
The Holy Monastery of St. Stephen
Finally a break in the rain! We were thinking of perhaps one day to return for a little soul-searching, as this monastery is very recluse. settle before forty, only to have realized that true love and happiness does not happen at the snap of a finger. (As career focused women ourselves, this tidbit of information scared us a bit.) For men, it is very common to find males in their twenties and thirties still living at home and providing for their mothers, and even siblings. This usually occurs because the father had passed away at an early time and the eldest son takes on the role of bread-winner, never leaving his mother to live or fend for herself (something rarely seen in Canada).
We were also engrossed in tales about the monasteries located on the northeastern peninsula of Halkidiki where one finds Mount Athos. Politically it is known in Greece as the "Autonomous Monastic State of the Holy Mountain." This self-governed region of the Holy Mountain though land-linked, is only accessible by boat. The number of visitors is restricted and all are required to get a special entrance permit before entering. Only males are allowed to enter as Monks feel that the presence of women alters the social dynamics of the community and therefore slows the path towards spiritual enlightenment. (Supposedly, it is false
The Holy Monastery of Varlaam
Ewa walking up the many steps up to the monastery. to believe that this rule of prohibiting women exists to reduce sexual temptation.) Female domestic animals are also forbidden (with the exception of cats, which keep down the rodent population, and chickens, which lay eggs that provide the fresh egg yolk needed for paint that the monks use in art projects). Many people we spoke to (particularly women) think this inequality is outrageous and that the monks have far too many modern luxueries like online gambling, sports cars, ipods, and taking exotic vacations. As well as dabbling in other types of religiously inappropriate relationships.
In the evening we were treated to another massive, delicious Greek feast which, of course, was complemented with a small glass of ouzo! How wonderful! You would think that after drinking this black licorice, rubbing alcohol- flavored beverage, one would acquire the taste (not a chance, dilution wasn’t even the solution). As we plugged our nose and closed our eyes, we reminded ourselves that our ouzo days were numbered, as Turkey was ouzo free.
Sending our love
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Yorkie Rik
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Wonderful Photos & Delightful commentary
You two have done a very fine job of taking all these amazing photos. And the descriptions are very well done and most informative. Still we realize you likely haven't had much web access these most recent days. We very much look forward to hearing more 'in person' the many un-explained gaps. Like you seem to have met no more "buskers" or 'costumed beggars' as you describe them. Instead perhaps you've now come across some of the more truly struggling beggars in poverty places. But we trust you are keeping safe and having many added good and happy memories of the host of exotic places and experiences you have had. We're counting the days!