Memories of the ungrateful

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I was a real little shit the first time I travelled - Not interested in anything, not even a glimpse at one of the worlds most iconic landscapes could change my initial thoughts of overseas travel. My true hatred, my belief was that travel sucked. So when on my first morning I was served up a Greek style Continental breakfast I officially gave up. That was until half a day later I drove around the volcanic remains of the Greek Island Santorini. 16 years on and I returned to look back with fondness of the ungrateful 14 year old little shit that was I.

There is a build up of appreciation of what that 1 month with my mum and dad gave me. Within ½ a day I realised that there was life outside of Australia and it can provide eye-opening experiences. My goal in life thereafter was to see what else the world had to offer. (Maybe it was not to see as much as I have, it’s getting a bit obsessive now.)

So upon my return my goal was to see my first destination outside Australia and see if I can be mesmerised again. Perhaps get a better understanding of the young teen that was here almost half my lifetime ago. Maybe there is a thought that I completely forgot about.

As my hotel transfer zig zaged and stumbled up the volcanic wall, the Mediterranean Sea interchanging from the left and right sides. I knew within the minute my off the cuff decision to come here was a good one.

Santorini is the island where one of the world’s biggest volcanic eruptions took place. In 1650BC 36km high ash flew in the air with 30 cubic kilometres of magma causing the centre of the island to collapse. Tsunamis went as far as Crete and Israel. The explosion is said to have finished off the then powerful Minoan (Crete) culture.

Further earthquakes later on also lead to changes of the islands shape with parts dropping off and the sea filling in the gap left by the sunken land. The last devastating earthquake was in 1956 destroying most of the houses.

What remains and what has been rebuilt is one of the world’s great tourist destinations. Sure there are scores of tourists here but some destinations it doesn’t matter and Santorini is one of them. People keep talking about that its romantic and all. I would probably have elsewhere in mind but if you shell out the big bucks you can view the sunset privately.

If not you head to the north point of the island to Oia where hundreds wait at the old fort or in the little streets (big enough for donkey’s and human traffic) to catch one of the world’s great lighting for sunset. Most sunsets are orange but this one in Santorini when it closes in on the horizon takes on this fiery red that I have not seen before.

16 years ago I was too jetlagged to get out of bed to see the sunset. My dad was all enthusiastic. He had probably dreamt of this moment for 10 years before I was born (taking his son to see the Santorini sunset). And there I was saying, “Ah whatever, sorry dad, sleep.” I did end up with the worst cramp trying to kick the sheets loose so it wasn’t all relax for me.

Sunsets are always good when you wait 5 - 10 minutes after the sun sets. I waited but no extra vibrant colours came out. So I left, I start my ride and after time I can see in the rear view mirror these stunning reds and oranges reflect back at me. I turn around realising it was too late to drive all the way back and think. ‘Shit I stuffed it up again!’ I’ve been coping shit from my dad for missing that sunset for 16 years… I’ll get it right one day.

Riding a scooter is the best way to see any island on Greece but in Santroini the other way to see it is via boat. You get a brief chance if you take the slow ferry to or from the island (afternoon lighting is prime). But take a tour to the centre of the volcano and you will get to the cliff face for the afternoon and unlike the ferries you get to go up close.

The cliffs must be a hundred metres high and shades of volcanic red and black dominate the cliff face. Atop of that are whitewash houses, which look like white icing on a cake. The Mediterranean blue of the sea and sky add to the spectacle. Whilst if you look closely there are still donkey’s plying their trade for the owners financial gain.

In the middle is the old crater, which is bathed in black volcanic rock. Steam still comes out of minute cracks but they are hard to find. (I only saw one.) It is hot there with the sun beating down. Flip-flops are not the best footwear as the rocks aren’t generally stable. If you are looking for a cone shaped middle you are at the wrong place. It’s more a messed up job, almost tip like with mounds to climb up.

Half way through the tour you get to have a swim in the hot springs. I couldn’t remember this part of the trip from 1995 so when the group I was staying with said they were going to do the day trip for 20 euro I decided, ‘ah why not.’ Just before we left and after already paying I remembered.

I remembered not for the heat of the hot spring (I still don’t remember) but I do remember doing the tour with my mum and dad and there were two American couples. One on a honeymoon and a non-honeymoon couple, the non-honeymooners had a guy who was of Greek heritage. He encouraged me to embrace my heritage and all that. But maybe, maybe this hot springs changed my perception of travel?

As I dived in I started my swim when I sort of went for a deep swim under the water for a while. I get up and simultaneously the newly wed female jumped up from the bottom of the floor – maybe because of the gooey floor bed – and her bikini top fell down. So here I am a 14 year old kid wanting home in Australia. Recovered from a cramp the previous day, slightly cooled down in the heated spa after sweating it out in the middle of an ancient volcano and now I have two youthful and developed breasts in front of me. What was I to do? My mouth probably dropped and I went underwater realising. ‘Hey you know what travel is not that bad. I can see international boob without trying!’

So as I came swimming again all these years later I figured luck would not have it and I was right. Still I did find some time to re-enact what my facial expression could have been all those years ago. They should unless downloading problems be on this blog.

I ended up staying near the black beach. Where the volcanic rocks have crumbled into grains of sand. The black beach is quite long and stretches over a few beaches whilst the Red beach is a single beach tucked in a cove in the south. The beach is red but there is saw dust or something along those lines. It was the first time I had been to the red beach and I don’t think its worth it, location is nice but the sawdust is a put off for me.

There are some nice villages you pass like Pyrgos and Thira the main town. Inland its okay but get to the seaside and it is something else. In Thira, Kastro bar has a great overall view. I had an alright meal there and great for photos. No power lines in the way either.

Because of the landscape being volcanic the soil is rich for agriculture but here agriculture is different in almost ever shape and form once the seed is planted. Santorini as part of the Cyclades sees very strong winds. In fact riding a bike is hard sometimes. But if you notice there is no high plant life.

Because of the wind the plants have adapted to the conditions and the farming is different. Grape vines for the wine are low and circle around when they grow. Tomato’s spread out almost ground level and the results are sometimes some weird shaped food.

I was looking for a cucumber at the supermarket and couldn’t find it. I just asked the question “Po ine cucumber?” in a voice like “you call yourself a supermarket when in Greece you don’t stock cucumber!” I then saw this thin crippled looking strip and it was a cucumber. Most of the agriculture is on the southern side of the island, which is closer to sea level and sheltered somewhat to at least one side of the islands wind.

I was here for 3 days and left happy with my chose to visit once again. The ferry lift opened its doors and I hoped on with the customary barking caged dogs locked up for the ferry ride. The Greek islands in general are a unique experience of travel in the world and Santorini is the pinnacle of that uniqueness.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

This is one of our favorite places on earth!
Lovely, lovely, lovely..... you've brought back some wonderful memories for us. You are correct it is a pinnacle of uniqueness.