The ultimate protest destination

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I am in Athens at the port trying to get back into town but the metro is not working. I walk 500m down the road to catch a bus - I can’t buy a ticket. I catch the bus anyway to get to a tram, which will go around the world but nevertheless I will not be waiting with the thousands of tourists trying to catch the only bus to the centre from the port.

The next day I need to get to the airport from Monistiraki. I couldn’t buy a ticket on the tram and the Metro was no different. I could only pay the 8 euro fare with coins. All machines couldn’t accept notes and there was no one stationed at the ticket booths. Why am I telling you this?

Well just a few weeks earlier I was in Syntagma the day after the mass protests regarding the decision by the government to accept the bailout. Little things count and to me this is one. In an economic situation that Greece has put themselves in wouldn’t you be trying to get any obvious income at every possibility? That was 12 euro gone to the Greek economy and still in my pocket. There must be at least 50 000 euro missed in those few hours over the course of 2 days and how many times does this happen?

I managed to enter Syntagma 2 weeks earlier with my 2nd cousin I didn’t know existed 2 years ago. Actually, he had a brother, which I didn’t know existed until that day. This is my 5th time back to Greece and every time I find out I have another 2nd cousin.

He drove me half way in and then we walked to the focal point of the protests. Last time I was there 2 years ago I was on the laptop I am typing on now connected to WIFI. Now on the square there are tents where café tables and chairs were replaced with different temporary tables and chairs. People are using the free WIFI to connect with the media and other media outlets.

Up the steps and along the posts of the road there are banners describing obvious objections and advise to the government big players. Employee of the year to the Greek President from employer the International Monetary Fund was a good one. There was also a poster to inform that they should get on a helicopter and flee like in Argentina years ago when their politicians fled from government.

Past the posters there was a barricade, which blocked off the public to the general area where tourists normally stand to watch the changing of the guard - In front of the Unknown Soldier. That spot was reserved for the police, which were suited up in full riot gear. Lined across the breadth of the government house with bullet proof vests, shields, batons, black shin and knee guards, white helmet with a black reverse visor to shield the back of the neck and a clear flat visor on the front to shield the face.

All were dressed in a dark blue polo shirt except a couple of guys at the far left of the police line up. One guy, especially, he had his shirt a similar dark blue to the others but the shirt got increasingly white the further it got to his stomach. So that is where the public targeted their frustration.

Men draped in the Greek flag start yelling comments like why are the pigs (police) against them and supporting the politicians. How the police are kidding themselves having the weak bunch of the police force here. Just look at the old fatty over there type stuff and that short prick here. Whenever a new lot of police arrived down the steps of the beige coloured government house they’d jeer at them.

The day before there was a more volatile atmosphere. Unfortunately I was in the outer suburbs of Athens and couldn’t get in (I feel I let myself, Greece and my readers down - sorry). But my 2nd cousin was able to explain his first hand account of that 2nd night.

As he explained, he was about 10m in front of me explaining in full Greek hand gestures where the police attacked and his movements at key moments. I felt like a reporter and cameraman from the BBC as I asked the questions, responded to his remarks and my eyes focusing in on the detail.

He told me that the metro station at Syntagma was used as an emergency medical centre for anyone hurt in the battle. That station was closed from service during the 2 day protest. He pointed out the spot to the right of Syntagma where the police threw tear gas down the steps to the underground station.

Another time the police in a line next to each other moved aside for the protestors to protest peacefully in front of the barricaded area. Once my cousin and others were through the police closed up the area again and started attacking.

That sounded pretty serious but there was an enjoyment in his face at the same time. He tells me he doesn’t do it normally (come to protests) but this for most Greeks was a must. The government has really screwed up and it’s been on the cards since the Athens Olympics. I remember hearing about Athens in debt for a lifetime 3 years before the 2004 Olympics were held and 10 years later it has arrived.

As my 2nd cousin continued, the police must have backed up a bit because we were further down the street, not much, maybe 10 meters. Just ahead, tear gas was thrown by the police. If you look at the footage on TV you can see at times the protestors and the police kicking something towards each other. That is the protest grenade battle – get it away before the tear gas explodes.

Easily the funniest story he told me was when a yet to explode tear gas was near him. Just when he thought he’d better kick it and start his run up. In the corner of his eye he sees a guy in full sprint determined to boot the gas to Sparta. He stops and watches the guy miss the kick by centre metres and follows through the air and within a split second it explodes and white stuff goes everywhere including my cousin’s face.

Tear gas was everywhere and to survive a Greek protest you need to at the least have a handkerchief over your mouth and nose but even then you’ll struggle. It’s best to have a dive mask for seeing and a builders mask for breathing. As well as affecting your breathing it stings the eyes, which even a day later had a little bite to it, down at Syntagma metro station which was up and running again.

We walked a bit of the city and waited for it to get a bit darker and back where the tents were after sunset they had Greece’s modern version of democracy. Over 2300 years later only a few kms up the road from the worlds 1st democracy, the people of Athens were letting everyone have their say.

Media were not invited for the open mic night where a person was able to get up speak for a minute or two than the mic would be passed to someone else. The only problem was that there was no alternate point of view and no voting so in the end it wasn’t resolving anything just a chance for people to get what was on their mind and off their chest.

An Egyptian guy got up and spoke whilst I was there. It’s dark and most people are sitting down. There was other revolution symbols around and this guy says, “I am from Egypt and we are supporting you Greece. You are in the same situation as Egypt…..” I questioned my cousin “But didn’t you vote these guys in? It’s a bit different.” Okay there might be some similarities in aspects but Greece hasn’t been dictated for 30 years by the one guy.

With that we moved on and back to the barricade. A larger crowd had gathered and more police were on deck. But most people were there as genuine people not happy. Many people believe that it’s the minority who thrive on this stuff that come up with the Molotov cocktails so it was peaceful, mostly

This time when police came down the steps of government house they’d get jeered but would get a series of those piercing green lights that can stuff your eyes up. The media on the balconies of the expensive hotels would cop the green lights too.

Someone got the whole group to do a “Nnahh” gesture (I forgot the Greek name) where you put a hand about forehead height and from the forehead you outstretch with your hands in a high 5 motion, “Nnahh”. I suppose up yours government so it was more elevated this time round.

There was a socialist political group, which tried to make themselves look like they were there for the people and that is all. They had a sign and their group of 20 or so over powered everyone else’s cries so it wasn’t appreciated. A little skirmish brewed but died off. They received temporary jeers and the green light. Actually add that to the Greek Protest Kit (GPK).

The main point for everyone else was this was not a political protest. No politics was to be involved this is every political groups fault. This government has only been in for a few years so they are not the only ones to blame here.

Greece is struggling but sometimes it’s hard to see and when we had a beer to kill some time. The cafes were full and they have been like that everyday I have been in Greece. It doesn’t matter what the economic situation is Greeks will never stop living. So what should they do from here?

As I travelled down the Balkans and this crises was brewing countries like Croatia, Serbia, Kosovo, Macedonia were concerned as to weather it is worth going to the EU. Look at Portugal, Ireland, Greece and Spain (not as much) struggling. Is being in the EU worth it?

To me there was too much pressure on the smaller countries to conform to the big western nations demands. What is it with Western Europe’s big guns in stuffing up other cultures? They strive to improve everywhere, which they do but at the same time they indirectly try and kill off a nations style of living and then they become a financial wreck. Look at Africa and now they are doing it in their own backyard.

Harsh maybe but to say that all Greeks are not hard workers (which has happened) is not true they just know how to relax well. Pensions halving, taxes for everything, new registration processes and taxi’s now having to get their license via the government’s initiative. Most reforms need to be done but for a country that loves a protest there is going to be many more.

The day of my flight the taxis went on strike blocking the roads of Syntagma and the port. Greece’s saving grace is that they will always have tourism but how much of that pie will they get in the future? That will be determined on how they treat their tourists over the next few years. At the moment in Athens it’s a bad start.

Greece needs to realise that the world is getting closer and alternative destinations are arriving in the world’s psyche. One thing Greece is, its Greece and there is nothing else like it but will people return if their plans keep getting changed. Ferries striking or no taxis. People potentially miss flights, miss a night’s accommodation. Why would you come back?

History is one reason and if it loses its repeat business there will always be first comers. But for me on my 5th time back and 4th time in Athens I have seen nearly everything so I decided to do Athens in 3 hours.

First up it was a walk to Acropolis where I decided to go in later. I went up a back street, which took me to Areopagus hill, on south west of the Acropolis. I never knew it existed and provides nice views for sunset. Another good spot, which provides panoramic views, is Philippappos (Hill of the Muses), which has great views of nearly the whole city.

Acropolis last entry is at 730pm in the summer so I held out till 7pm and went to the ticket office. I used my 2005 student card, which I deliberately got no year on and handed it in. “One student please.” Any other time of day I would have had no chance. But as the sun continued to beat down on the poor ticket lady for at least the last 3 hours her facial expression was what I expected. Yeah what ever I really shouldn’t give it to you but its 7pm… Okay. So I got it for half price.
It was the first time I had been on the Acropolis towards sunset and I think Hill of the Muses is probably better. I saw Temple of Olympian Zeus and the 1896 Olympic Stadium atop the Acropolis so headed there before sunset.

Walking the streets or grabbing a bite to eat I noticed an influx of fake watches and other stuff for sale. Illegal Immigrants is a problem in Greece as it’s generally a first port of call for many looking to immigrate to Europe. Many Greeks blame this as part of the problem too. They were even on the Cyclades Island. The blame game has started.

I have seen Athens too many times now and the sites I’ve seen I’ve seen a lot. You do find new things every now and then but for me to enjoy it I needed something different and a Greek protest provided that. If there is a next time hopefully I will be in the thick of things. Not watching on TV and going there the next day. Weak.

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Comments

[Dancing Dave]

BRING BACK THE BIFF
Nice to see you get off on a good protest...bring back the biff...lucky your camera was not confiscated...not that you would let that happen!