Santorini /1/18

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Santorini



We arrive to an overcast day and the water is a dirty gray, not the sapphire I remember. I have signed up for the same tour that Joe and I took when we visited years ago mainly because it goes to Oi (pronounced E-ah). The tender drops us off in the port of Athinios where the water is so deep that the ships cannot drop anchor. Our first stop is the highest point on the island and home to an ancient, but still active, monastery and a government installation. Neither is open to tourists. Instead we have a breathtaking view of the islands of Santorini as the nightly cloud dissipates and reveals the remains of the volcano that changed history.



Back in 1600bc the volcano was at the center of a thriving island. It both exploded and imploded and the result was that most of the island sank down into the caldera and the sea rushed in to shape the island as it is today. Depth in the caldera is 1500 feet and the walls of the remaining caldera rise 1100 feet. The remaining rim of the caldera make up the archipelago of Thira. An island in the center of the caldera still has an active volcano but it has been pretty sleepy for the last centuries.



On the other hand, the African and European tectonic plates meet just off the coast and there are small tremors recorded each and every day but unfelt by the population. In 1956 there was a 7.6 earthquake that destroyed much of Oi and other parts of the islands. The earth is still evolving.



The water now is still cool and as large clouds of humidity form overnight and dissipate during the morning. By the time we reached the top the clouds were clearing and the aspect was quite dramatic. Back on the bus we continued driving on curving roads to Oi. There are few guard rails and the large coaches must navigate around sharp curves and oncoming traffic, often other large coaches. Even on my best day, and I am a good driver, I wouldn’t take the job of bus driver on Santorini.



After a few traffic jams we arrive at the Oi bus park, disembark and begin the climb to the town square. Now granted it is not very steep but it is long and I pull out my cane to navigate the stairs. I brought it along as my destination is the restaurant Pelicanosis that is up two flights of narrow twisting stairs with few handrails. Oh but the view is so worth it. The white buildings and blue domes have been pictured often but now, here and there is a building of a different color. Up until eight years ago, residents and businesses had to paint the building is white with blue trim, supposedly in honor of the Greek flag. That changed when the law was repealed and now you can see ocher or pale pink or even bright yellow. Still, most still use white and blue and that is what gives the towns and villages their striking appearance.



I ordered a Red Donkey, the local brew “Hip-Hoppy Kick Ass Ale” and soaked up the vista. At the tip of the island is an ancient Venetian fort that is reputed to be the very best spot to see the sunset. Most of the rooftops have been converted into bars or restaurants or just places for the owners to relax. I navigate my way back to the bus park and realize just how the island touring industry has exploded. There are at least twenty coaches jockeying for parking space to load the visitors. This in the size of the Trumbull Library parking lot. There are two men whose job it is to direct traffic and that’s another job I wouldn’t do on a bet..



I am on bus number 12 and that means at least 11 other busses are carrying HAL passengers to that bus park, not to mention the Russian busses (four) the German busses (two), the Japanese bus and others from various tour companies. Those alone add up to over eight hundred visitors to this small town at the time I was there. We are definitely loving this island to death. Back on the bus we are in gridlock as the streets are narrow, the traffic heavy, the parking haphazard and pedestrians waking along (and in) the road.



The last time we were here their were many uncompleted buildings, victims of the Greek economic collapse. Now there is building everywhere and while welcome by the residents, it is a bit off putting. Today there is just one cruise ship in port, ours. During the season as many as seven. I cannot imagine what it must be like nor do I plan experience it.



Our bus driver takes us right into town, bless his heart, and the walk to the cable car is less than a mile but temperature is in the 80’s, the humidity 77% and there is no cloud cover. About halfway there I stop at a cafe and have baklava and a Venus DeMilo which is made with apples, apple juice and a Greek apple infusion called Raku. Again I sit on the edge of the terrace a drink in the views. Our ship is just below and the various resort’s blue swimming pools pop against the white buildings.



I make my way to the cable car and am surprised that the line is fairly short. One can wait as much as 2 1/2 hours in the sun on a busy day. Today it is about10 minutes. I am happy to be on board and in the air conditioning and I head to my stateroom for a short nap until Happy Hour.



Dinner tonight comprised of specialities of each of the members of the Culinary Council. I must be in an apple frame of mind as I have goat cheese rolled in thin apple slices with cucumber. This rates an A. For my main course I have the trout, a first for me but it won’t be my last. Rating? An A+. Dessert was a chocolate soufflé. All in all a very satisfying meal.



I am beginning to ache so I head back to the stateroom and the Advil. Tomorrow while most of the ship heads to Rhodes, I will have myself a relaxing sea day.

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