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Published: September 14th 2011
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I was back again to the island my dad was born for the 5th time but 4th time since the journeys have begun. Visiting a Greek island of your heritage means (especially when travelling there with your dad) you have to listen to the same stories for the umpteenth time about the family history, village life and if you show no interest than an attempt to make you feel guilty that you don’t care is made. So in desperation to get a break from all this I built up enough courage to drive around the island myself.
The first time I was here was 1995 and even my last visit in 2009 tourism was not an overload. But with the Greek financial problem set in. Island hoping for the Greek population has become popular. Kythera still with its off the beaten track reputation has seen an increase but still not overbearing.
The island is south of the Peloponnese and north west of the island Crete. Known for its rugged coastline and secluded beaches for a tourist it provides a nice break from the tourist infested islands that most people go to.
There are more hotels and bars around
than before (even a beach bar that’s just started this year.) The nightclub has gone because it was selling drinks to underage kids but still there’s enough to satisfy one or two nights out.
The main reasons to come here for a tourist is to go beach hoping. A beach or two a day and taste traditional Greek cuisine. I stayed here 3 weeks with my dad and my sister, her boyfriend and a friend of theirs joined me for the last week.
This journey (JP5) I have had to learn so many basics of different languages when I wanted to say thank you in Greek I went through 4 different ways before I came up with “Efxaristo". My Greek is terrible but this was easily the worst Greek I have had in any of my visits. My brain didn’t have the capacity to come up with learning it again.
As well as Greek tourists, Albanians have moved into the island over the past decade as tradesmen. The little kid of the builder who was redoing our homes gate was there. For a brief period I was asked to entertain the kid. I brought out some left
over plain crisps and the kid’s eyes just lit up. Lit up in a way to indicate I was not going to see them again. Unable to communicate that he can only have a handful, he ate the whole packet. But that suggests that I am still a kid at heart and selfish I really wanted some of those crisps.
My great Aunty Koula passed away a few months before I returned. She was my second last connection of my grandparents generation on my dads side. My grandfather’s sister Marea is still around and in her emotional farewell she announced the probability that it would be the last time we will see each other. Her farewell gift was to present me with a shot of ouzo which was so strong it made my stomach churn. Perfect for my 14-hour overnight stopover at Athens airport. I recovered but for the first hour it was tough.
The island is busy 2 months a year. I promised myself to never come in peak season again in 2009 and I did. September is the ideal time to come here. The crowds are gone, it’s cheaper and you have most beaches to yourself
nearly all day. If you do come during peak season July- August, you need a routine. Mine was to wake up early and go to the beach before everyone else. Plus in Greece the sun beats down so hard even if you do manage to sleep you wake up exhausted.
I flew in and out of the island and the small planes that Olympic Air offer create some concerns during take off and landing. I always get this thought of, ‘Shit you know what. I’m about due now for a crash.’ Although the planes have improved dramatically from Olympic Airways days.
I have gone a bit lazy with this story; sorry but this was my break from travel. Enjoy the photos there’s a bit of info on some of them and shows the diversity the island has to offer.
Kythera is one of the great alternatives of Greek island hoping. English is not a problem here as nearly everyone on the island has either lived, living or know someone living in Australia due to mass migration around WWII period.
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Susurros somnolientos
J. Lalo Cura
Seems like a pretty nice island to me. Those beaches look great! Hopefully it won't be overrun and spoilt by mass tourism in the future.