Chapter 33: Corfu : Bed rest and a long walk to the monastery


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Europe » Greece » Ionian Islands » Corfu
March 5th 2004
Published: November 27th 2006
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Chapter 33



Bed rest and a long walk to the monastery



After fetching Maya’s breakfast, Martin headed back out on his own, wishing Maya could also see the places but wanting to capture as much as possible to relay back to her upon his return. He was off on his own adventure today, though he didn’t really want to go to far so Maya would not be left alone for too long. He left the old town from the south and headed towards the airport where he wanted to find the bay they had been unable to reach a few days before. Passing Corfu Town FC ( the equivalent of Kingstonian ground), he glimpsed the single runaway of the airport. A sign at the fenced off runway rather amusingly read “ Danger Aeroplanes above”, which made him think that it would be more dangerous if it read “ Danger Aeroplanes below”. Continuing past the airport for about a mile along a very busy road with no pavements (it reminded him of Siena), he could not find the entrance to the elusive bay. At which point he turned round, his motto of going those five minutes further failed him as the speeding cars and buses choked him with dust by the roadside.

Undeterred he retraced his steps and headed for the monastery at Kanoni. The three mile walk took him past pretty little houses where the locals were milling about in the garden and greeted him with a yasas every now and again. Orchards lined both sides of the road, with no fruit hanging from them just yet. He very much enjoyed the walk, the sun was out and the cobwebs were flying off him. He finally reached the tip of the peninsula, where at the bottom of the hill sat a small church on an island.

Tourist Site 2: Monastery of Vlaherna & Mouse island

History: Kanoni is situated south of the Palaiopoli peninsula. It was named Kanoni (cannon) after the battery of artillery established by the French in 1798. One of the battery’s cannons still stands at the tourist kiosk. In front of Kanoni is the Monastery of Vlaherna, linked to the mainland by a cement dock and built in the 17th century. From there one can visit Pontikonissi. (Mouse island) According to legend, this was the ship of Phaiakes which, after taking Ulysses to Ithaki, was petrified. Another legend claims that this is the rock where Ulysses crashed because of a storm. On the island of Pontikonnisi stands the Byzantine chapel of Pandokrator. The spectacular view from Kanoniinspired the German painter Becklin to draw the island of the dead.

Martin’s comments: Kanoni offers fabulous views of the sea and the reed-lined elusive bay. Just behind the monastery lays another island known as “Mouse Island”, but unfortunately out of season, no boats were going there.

After enjoying the views and thinking how much Maya would love this, he headed back and found a stick which Maya would be able to use. The stick did prove useful at the chemist to illustrate the need for a walking stick (13 euros) which he bought and handed to a very appreciative Maya upon his return. The stick proved very useful indeed, as it enabled her to walk to the bar up the road and make a hair cut appointment for the following day. The bar they came across was called “Rival”, a rock bar with a full sized authentic Harley Davidson motorbike in the corner and a very envious girl named Famia running the place. Within minutes they had struck up a conversation with her and she even gave our two travellers two free shots (similar to ouzo but stronger). The music was very much to both their tastes (Bowie/Beatles/Queen) and was just the tonic. They waddled back and considering the fact that Maya had only twisted her ankle, just two days ago, she was coming along very well. Highlight: Mouse Island




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