Trier, and the Ancient Romans

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Geo: 49.7537, 6.64625

Today, we went to Trier (Treves in French). We had been there, as we drove to the Mill, but further research indicated how much we had not had time to explore.

We meant to make an early start, but accidentally slept in until 10am. Poor old Matt had a nosebleed during the night, so there was also some washing to do - poor old Miranda and Jonathan must certainly notice 5 house guests!!!

Trier is about 50 mins south of St Vith, but luckily, Harry Potter (read by Stephen Fry) accompanies us in audiobook wherever we have travelled, so the trip passed uneventfully. It was cold (3 degrees) and raining lightly - we keep thinking snow, but it's not likely. (Changing the topic slightly, Steven's cousin Danny has sent us photos of the Christmas snow at Cari - more than 1m of snowfall!!!!)

We parked in the same place at the Porta Nigra, but this time, we bought tickets and went into the Porta. It is incredible. 2000 years old, built without cement between the enormous blocks of sandstone ( that have turned black with lichen). It was part of the city walls when the Romans were based here, 2 millenniums ago, then fell into disrepair. A sainted hermit, Simeon, lived here in about 1000AD, preventing the theft/destruction of the Gate - and, following the canonization of Simeon, a church was built incorporating the Gate in 1100AD. We were able to climb the three storeys of the building, seeing evidence of the Romans' use of the Gate and the church.

We has tickets to the Simeon museum, but first went to get something to eat. We found an old cellar, themed with knights, but struggled to get the attention of the staff - still, in less than an hour, we had all eaten. Good schnitzels for the kids and I but Steven had been more adventurous - we think it was a fish, not necessarily cooked, in a cold creamy sauce. He said it was tasty....

I was stressing about how much there was still to see in Trier, especially with the days so short (sunset at about 4pm). We set off at a pace, pausing briefly at the Basilica. I thought it was an enormous, but extemely unadorned church inside. Then I read that it was built as the Aula Palantine (Throne Room) of Emperor Constantine - at the time, the second largest room in Christendom! The Romans wanted the architecture to express the magnificence and might of the emperor, and the sheer size of the great basilica still impresses. The elongated, rectangular brick building is 220 feet long, 90 feet wide and 98 feet high with a vast semi-circular apse. It is the largest surviving single-room structure from Roman times.

Again, we didn't really know what we were seeing, but thought it was lovely - we took photos outside the Electoral palace, which backs onto the Basilica, and later read that it is considered one of the most beautiful rococo palaces in the world. It was closed for renovations inside - next time!

We then walked to the Roman bathhouses, built in 300AD but never completed. We decided not to go in, and walked on to the Roman amphitheater. Again, it was 2000 years old, and once formed part of the city walls, seating 20,000. The cellar, where the machinery for set-changes was kept, was still there, and the wood that has been found was dated to 2000 years. The boys loved running up to the top, whilst Georgia and I explored the vomitirium ( passage way).

I think the bast part of the day came at the end. We went to the Rheinische Landesmuseum Trier (State Museum) - we only had 90mins, and I think 90 days wouldn't be enough! (Having said this, we had time to get through every room). The museum started with flint Stone Age tools - the valley of Neander (Neanderthal) isn't far from here - then through the Celtic and Gaullic peoples, to the Roman times. There was also stuff from the Middle Ages and the Baroque - but the best, by far, was the Roman finds. Temples, statues, mosaics, jewellery - we were transfixed! We loved the 2000 jewellery, the mosaics, the carvings....Steven bought a replica of the wine-boat statue, Tom bought a roman gladiator toy and Matt bought a gladiator helmet!

Back through town, full of Friday night shoppers, for a quick icecream and apple streusel, then returning to the mill! where we had ham and stumf (mash potatoes, carrot and kale) for dinner and watched Despicable Me 2 - for the kids, honest!

PS. I love built in seat heaters in the car. Our Peugeot 5008, with its 7 seats, in built sat nav and the moon roof, has been wonderful.

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Comments

[Tracey Lucas]

Thanks K. It's been 23 years since we saw Trier so that was a great memory reviver!