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Published: August 19th 2012
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watchtower
The Elbe was the border between east and west Germany, of which this is a relic. We start our cycle tour to the sea from Berlin perhaps unconventionally in Wittenberge. T, D, and I take a train ride after work towards the Brandenburg border, our loaded bikes packed in with other cycling commuters, who slowly filter out as we meander through farmland. Wittenberge is the end of the train line, and we still have some kilometers along the Elbe by bike towards Lenzen before the end of day. J is borrowing her bike from her sister who is overnighting in Lenzen for work, so she has journeyed ahead of us.
The plan is to cycle along the Elbe River bikeway briefly today, then meander along the Elbe-Müritz loop over the next couple of days to the Berlin-Copenhagen bike route. From there we approach Rostock, and in the remaining days, we explore the Baltic Sea coast towards Rügen of the white chalk cliffs.
We actually miss the Elbe bikeway in Wittenberge and travel inland more directly before catching it again at Cumlosen. Along the water is an elevated dirt path (perhaps for flood control?) and beside it is a paved path which we take. In the waning light we spot a stork's nest and a watchtower
from the days of divided Germany. Soon the light fades and all I know are the bike lights from T and D far ahead of me and the crunch of my tires in the gravel. Suddenly the farthest bike light that still seemed distant in the darkness is upon me and there is J waiting with a flashlight and a hug. Supper has already been cooked and we relax with noodles in our bellies and beer in hand.
In the morning light we finally see where we are, which is next to a sport boat harbor, and beautiful grassland with colorful wildflowers. We have a civilized picnic breakfast with tea and coffee and frothy milk, fruit salad, muesli, bread and spreads. After a warm goodbye from J's family, we begin our journey by heading to the town of Lenzen.
As T, D, and I were cycling in the night before we comically hit hiccup after hiccup. My new dynamo and bike light system was hastily installed by me hours before we made the train, and unfortunately the totally unsuitable washer that I used fell off, leaving the light dangling. I shimmed it temporarily in place with a cigarette
butt. T's bike light did not work, and pit stop to buy batteries did no good. Such a beginning forebode the next hiccup, which unfortunately occurred within the first hour of our start. A hook on a front wheel bag caught in the wheel and the elastic wrapped around the axle. Even when this was pried off the wheel did not turn freely since the bearing system was over compressed by the accident. There was only one bike rental place in town who did not sell bike hardware, and it was fast approaching noon when many stores close in Germany on a Saturday. The future of our trip held in the balance as we all sought a solution with ever shrinking options. We had only one axle wrench, and miraculously a passing group had one as well. A quick turn and suddenly the wheel ran free! A few hours delay we were back on track.
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