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The Gate!!
Brandenburg GateThen at last we become 'berliners'.
Transferring through Munich early morning - we arrive in the Capital in time for breakfast - not our highest priority following our 14 hour flight. The hotel Leonardo in the east turned out to be perfect. Very pleasing given our intended stay of 4 days. First day involved an afternoon reconnoitre on foot. Strolling past Alexanderplatz - highly lauded but somewhat disappointing in its vast starkness (the weather was grim too, being overcast and rainy) and on down the full length of Unter den Linden to the Brandenburg Gate. We found it hard to envisage the renowned beauty of the linden bordered boulevard because the whole street is currently a construction zone. In fact we became conscious of how much of Berlin is being rebuilt or renovated and sky-hugging cranes are ubiquitous. Doubling back along the Spree on the north arm of Museum Island we stopped for a Riesling and a chat with Fabian, our waiter. He provided some very useful hints on what to see in his city.
Playing it safe, dinner was had in the hotel's al la carte restaurant at an hour late enough to ensure we had
wine
CS has finally found the precious liquid in suitably sized containers!! the place to ourselves.
WiFi is not so widely accessible here. The hotel requires a fee and we stopped at two places that complained that their usual service was down. Nevertheless we checked emails and progress of our daughter's passage across the Pacific in her 30 foot yacht, Portal, on the InReach tracker they are using, at regular intervals, to satisfy ourselves all was well in our world.
CS had ordered tickets for Orpheus at the Komisch Oper Wednesday night. We set out on foot on day two which dawned sunny, warm and bright to find some of the highlights Fabian had suggested. We walked the south side of Unter den Linden, side-stepping yet more road blocks and construction works. The world clock at Alexanderplatz was - well see for yourselves (over- rated?) but the stroll past Nikolai platz and on to the Gendarmerie square was delightful. Breakfast overlooking the 'twin' German and French Cathedrals was followed by a look into the Concert Hall placed between, where an orchestra was rehearsing.
Moving on and being in the vicinity we thought to locate the infamous 'Check-point Charlie"
but either our guide-book
German Talent lost to Germany
Marlene Deitrich - one of those displaced froM Germany during Nazi politics. had it wrongly located or it has become so down-played as to now be invisible. We rather hope the latter is true - a sad history, better dismissed if not forgotten. The exhibition in Unter den Linden of known Jewish notables who were forced out of the city one way or the other from the 1930s was another poignant reminder of part of the city's sorry history. The 'Holocaust Monument' is both stark and accessible (literally) immediately off the street. A moving and disconcerting experience on a bright and sunny summer afternoon to walk among the vast and sometimes colossal grey stone slabs so mathematically arranged in precise perpendicular rows.
Returning to the east via the magnificent Tiergarten, Reichstag and various other imposing monuments we wove a path through small streets towards Hackescher Markt. Stopping along the way just off the smaller arm of the Spree, refreshment (more Riesling) and very melodic music played by a local busker (with a delightful Spanish lilt to his enunciation of the English lyrics of his songs) we found our objective and strolled through the open platz surveying the assortment of side-walk cafes. Turning into Rosenthaler PP scored very highly when
Lost to Gemany
The street display through a courtyard opening he spotted the restaurant CS had ear-marked for dinner the next night. Being able to make a booking in person and explain that we had found Oxymoron referred to very favourably on the net sites we had visited from Australia, did not spoil our chances of special treatment, and so it proved.
Back to Leonardo to 'freshen up' we sought instructions as to how to take a tram to the theatre. Sadly no go, only trains from Alexanderplatz would get us to the district we wanted. Given taxis are very reasonably priced, and we had walked for miles, literally, we opted for one and landed in Behrenstr with plenty of time to spare. The Oper doors were hermetically shut so we sought further refreshment. On returning to the theatre the crowd was milling and we were happily admitted to the building after brandishing the paper tickets CS had printed from the internet in Australia. Very pleased about that as someone had suggested that often one thinks one has booked and paid for seats overseas only to find the venue has no such record. Then the only remaining hiccup was when CS arrived at
the door marked on the ticket to find a very officious lady crossing her arms across her chest and declining ingress. Shit, had we come too late after all? Only 10 minutes to opening time, surely time enough. PP joined the throng and suddenly we were approached by a charming man who explained they had not opened the doors, yet! Phew! That led to a delightful chat with the man who had seen the performance no less than 6 times and who explained some curiosities about it. Certainly whet the appetite. Once in we found our seats. CS had done very well. Three rows from the front, and there was a 'bridge' between the orchestra pit and the stage. PP picked at once that some of the action would occur there, near enough for us to almost touch the performers. Expecting the libretto in German but being happy we knew the story of Orpheus we were nevertheless delighted to see that one could select a language and the text of the songs appeared on the seat frame. During and at the end of two hours we were exhilarated by the energetic and quirky performance. Our German friend had advised there
would be no interval. One highlight, apart from the costumes, stage set, fabulous singing and dancing was the use of a full size puppet. This creature began as merely a skull and little by little the puppet master turned it into a long gangly skeleton. Masterly!
Third day and time for the west side of the city. A bit far to walk even for we intrepids so tram to Alexanderplatz and train to the Zoo stop worked wonders. We are still not sure we paid the correct ticket price but a group of young German men suggested it would not matter - they never check! And so it proved. Walked to Kurfurstendamm, famous shopping street and quickly had enough of shops we have seen everywhere else and the crowds that seem commensurate with same. We found a little side street and cafe for refreshment. CS was keen to 'do' German fare and the little restaurant had sidewalk tables and no other customers and advertised the best curry worst in town. Our delightful waiter, Chris, emerged and offered advice, good cheer, good Riesling and the requisite sausage, and ham German style, at PP's request. Chris explained he is
For Ella!!
Your mum's "mini-pig" - a bit large to bring home?? Better check my bag to make sure! an actor, temporarily out of that work, had lived in Australia for three months, New Zealand for 12 months and the USA for ten years before returning to his home town. Soon the place was occupied by a group of Dutch, an Argentine couple and two Swiss. Much enjoyment swapping stories and smiles. Thereafter more exploring by foot. We wended our way back to the Tiergarten and strolled through the middle. Not feeling it necessary to cover 'old' ground by foot a cab was called into service.
Trammed to Hackescher Markt and strolled through the underpass and into the square, discovering a different place now the light was fading and people had come out to play. The place was popping. We found Oxymoron where we had left it the day before and were greeted warmly. A table set and waiting and the most attentive service. Great meal, great place. One waiter explained the story behind the name. Originally two businesses run by the same owner were located on the spot - one a restaurant, the other a night club. A strange combination, hence the name. The night club has since given way to the expanded restaurant.
Just as we decided we had sated our appetites for all food and wine and should probably make tracks we made contact with a couple at the adjoining table. The young woman had just flown in from Istanbul where she was working teaching English, to meet her Dad who had flown in from Canada where he was living. A lively conversation ensued about all and everything. Two hours disappeared and then it was time to call it in. We really enjoyed your company lovely people and hope you visit our blog and take a freighter cruise one day.
A short diversion took us to Radisson Blu where CS particularly wanted to see the Aquadom. The idea of an aquarium doubling as a lift-well seemed too tantalising to miss. Unfortunately the fish were asleep and the ticket seller absent, so we sneaked a peek from the hotel lobby instead. Aquariums always remind CS of friend and colleague Debbie Kilroy's quip that they are like 'fish prison'.
Last day, this time we would head out of town to an area called Prenzlauer Berg. CS had read that it is an emerging 'village' type community:
trendy, modern, young, arty, political and vibrant. The best parts had proved difficult to precisely locate on any map so we set off to explore. Initially disappointing, the few cafes and shops were well disbursed and did not have the ambience we were expecting. A diversion down a side street and a fabulous coffee served in a tiny coffee shop also netted a copy of a district map. That made all the difference and we were soon immersed in exactly the lively environment we had hoped for. Art shops and galleries, book stands, cafes, bars and restaurants jostled with each other at close quarters in an area that ultimately proved quite extensive. Brunch German style experienced in a cafe called 'Butter' hit the spot. Finally we returned to Leonardo to wrap up some matters preparatory to our early morning departure for Moscow. Hey - we will see you again in Russia. Auf Wiedersehen Berlin, we will be back!
PS PP's Chinese herbal brews seem to be helping that cough!
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David Macfarlane
non-member comment
Now that is buying in bulk
Obviously the Germans have OHS rules which significantly exceed our 30 kg lifts.