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Published: December 23rd 2014
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The Danube
Looking across the river to the castle standing guard over the confluence of the rivers We had hoped to have done a day trip to Cesky Krumlov in Czech Rep but these are not being run at the moment so we chose to go to Passau instead. We intend to do a cycling trip from here next year along the Danube and it seemed a good opportunity to check it out since it was so close.
It was a one and a half hour trip by train to Plattling then down to Passau which sits on the confluence of three rivers - the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz. Passau sits on a peninsula at the confluence of the rivers. The old town with many buildings dating back to the 1200s is at the end of the peninsula with a castle across the Danube to monitor river traffic in the old days. Now, the river has huge long river boats with tourists plying the route. The tourists look mostly to be elderly people. God help us when the bike has to swapped for a dawdling river boat.
We took a walking route down through the newer part of town then into narrow alley ways of the old town. The most open route was along
the river which was not jammed with people. Eventually we headed back into the narrow streets and open squares and visited a Jesuit church and the huge St Stephen's. The first was lovely because it was one of the few that was light and bright inside despite the black stone alters. St Stephen's was awesome in it's baroque decorative attire. It's ceilings were covered with paintings with heavily ornate frescoes. It also has the largest pipe organ in the world with 17974 pipes. Unbelievable.
We headed back to the river at 2pm to listen to the carillon bells at the Rathaus. I thought we might be able to see them swinging when struck, but no. It was a pleasant spund anyway.
Finally we went to the Christmas market which is a clone of most we have been seeing. It was very good with nice huts and a good spacious outlay. There was a lot of glass work which the area is known for. Also, the inevitable gluhwein, bratwurst, chocolates, decorations, and candles etc.
We discovered the radweg (bike path) along the river so we may yet return to the same spot in a few months. We also
A few of the many paintings adorning the ceiling of St Stephen's
It wasn't just the paintings that were in abundance but also the highly decorative frescoes and plaster work. At the opposite end of the cathedral is the massive pipe organ. discovered a good eating place near the railway station and might return there too.
Passau is a very attractive city and well worth a visit. I should also mention it was a fine, sunny day which made a welcome change from the usual. Although on our return to the National Forest area we were back into cloud and wind.
Of note also was the distinctive difference in terrain. We came from the hilly east with a lot of forest, then to rolling farms and forest then abruptly to the plains which stretch out into the distance. The weather seemed to change also with the terrain and you could see the front of the weather system.
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