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Published: June 17th 2016
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Today was a short hop by this trips standards, only 115 miles, or 130 if we take the even more scenic route. What can I say, give me even more scenic every time. It started well, there was a light drizzle but with the promise of better weather to come. As we were at the last human out post before Mt Ponte De La Grande Sagne, and there was only a few miles of road left we headed up it. There was something about the rain and the mountains that made this feel very bleak. I could imagine it in winter, a harsh and unforgiving place, yet yesterday in the late afternoon sun it was a truly inspiring. I guess these things are just the opposite sides of the wilderness coin. Anyway, reached the end, turned around, headed back.
We rode out through the forest and followed the river. It was quiet now but from the width and the rocks it wasn't hard to imagine it when the winter snows melt and the water flows along in torrents. It wasn't long before we picked up the D902 and we were climbing again. This climb was totally unexpected. If the Stelvio
and Gavio passes were rough and challenging, this climb smooth and beautiful (and challenging). The ride up the first part was on good roads and with every switchback came an even more breathtaking view. It was getting colder and soon we were in the snow again so we stopped for a coffee before pressing on.
Back on the bike and we were climbing still higher. We had seen a couple of marmots a few days ago but here they were everywhere. Darting across the roads and disappearing into burrows, or watching from the side as we went past. Then something happened I wasn't expecting. I lost my flow. I just couldn't get a rhythm going. I slowed down but still I couldn't get my position in the road and the bends were getting harder. Thats when it struck me, altitude, or altitude and tiredness. The air was thinner and we had been riding hard for a week now. It was getting difficult to concentrate. We had to push on but for the first time I thought we had taken on too much.
What goes up must come down and It wasn't long before we were heading down again.
The lower we got the more my concentration returned and the better my flow through the bends. All is well again.
We stopped for lunch and pressed on. This time at a much lower altitude and that was were we discovered one of the jewels of the trip. A very narrow gorge that crisscrossed over a river on beautiful old bridges with date stones from 1901. At this point I must say that we have been very good managing batteries in the cameras. The little GoPro on the bike however had a flat battery and horror of horrors, we (I) forgot the charge the spare. Julia stepped up though and took on the filming from her perch and we went for it. The first part of the gorge was so good I turned around and did it again. Well, we wouldn't be coming back here any time soon would we? Or would we? About 10 miles after and at the end of a narrow valley the road was closed and so we had to turn back. Bummer..... But there was that gorge and we had been charging the GoPro whilst we rode. Bring it on.
The
dead end had cost us an hour or so, so by the time we were approaching the hotel for the night we were pretty tired. Then it started to rain, not much, just enough to keep me on my toes. The it started to climb again. OK not as high as earlier that day, just to 150 meters, but it was twisty, and wet and I was glad to get to the hotel.
Once settled in our room, and with all the photos and videos copied onto the computer we headed down for something to eat. We could barely keep our eyes open but the food was superb so we soldiered on.
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switch backs
Love the pictures of the switchbacks running up the valleys. I ride full dress Harley Davidson Tour Glide. Awesome to ride through curves and mountains. I was in Europe in 1989-92 in us military. Good to see some of Europe in your blogs.