Tours - Bordeaux

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Blog from the 9^thonwards



A really tough first day. I always knew I was going to encounter some difficulties on the day I restarted my trip, I just thought I would handle them better. I am exhausted from the riding, both mentally and physically, and I didn’t even cover that many kms. Regardless, I know it will improve and I once again will enjoy the journey put before me. The day started slowly, I was up at about 8:30, packing what had been left out the night before and putting the finishing touches on the preparations for the day. The rain looked as though it might hold off, and it proved to do so for the majority of the day. So after having a hearty breakfast with Elizabeth, I thought it best that I get on the road before the heavens decided to open. So I said a fond farewell to her, and off I went. Back on the road for the first time in what felt like months but in fact was only three weeks. Still it was going to take some getting used to. It took me a long while to escape the city streets of Tours and the surrounding towns. A few times I had to backtrack so as to find the right road to take. I eventually found the road that I would be stuck on for most of the day, the D910. It was tough, although the terrain was favourable, the wind was not. It was blowing both across and in my face. A poor combination. My legs were starting to feel the strain as the road turned slightly skyward. I stopped for lunch and devoured two of the delicious sandwiches that Elizabeth had kindly prepared, no doubt the French know their food. That gave my legs ample time to recover from the mornings ride and I thought that I had blown out the cobwebs, unfortunately I was to find out later that was not the case. I was making painfully slow progress, literal pain coupled with mental pain. I found myself making excuses to take breaks when normally I wouldn’t have. It was depressing. Slowly but surely I made ground, but just as I was beginning to feel more comfortable the rain forced an early stop. I wanted to be setting my tent up in the light, just to allow for any loss of speed over the last few weeks. I’m glad I did, it enabled me to not stress to greatly about if I would get it up in time. By the end of the day I had made reasonable progress (I think) although I couldn’t be sure about the distance covered. Hopefully today was a teething process, and tomorrow I can continue at the pace I was accustomed to before my extended break. I’ve found out that I really do enjoy the company of others. It is only when one has, and then has not, does one realise the importance of it. I’m sure I’ll adjust, as I did on the first leg of my trip, yet it does reinforce a key lesson learnt while riding around.







It was certainly a much less difficult day physically. The day got off to a slow start, in part thanks to the poor sleep I was afforded during the night. I estimate that I only got a few hours sleep before finally dozing off properly at around 3am. So I only rose at about 10, meaning that valuable early hours had been wasted. The mornings are key in making good distance for the day. If one gets a positive start the momentum is carried into the afternoon. I was met with foggy conditions out on the road, which meant for conservative riding. I had run out of water, a fundamental error, and so was on the lookout for a town big enough for a grocery store. Luckily enough one came along in reasonable time. I was able to restock and be on my way. By this time most of the fog had cleared but it was inevitably going to be an overcast day. I fear I may not get too many more days of sunshine on my tour. The conditions were favourable for making a consistent, if not quick, pace. The rolling hills made for difficult, yet not terribly slow going. I chipped away consistently as I have been known to do, not making any ridiculous gains. I stopped for lunch and caught up a bit n the trade situation in the AFL. Damian Barrett and Terry Wallace sure know how to rehash things they have been over a multitude of times before. But nevertheless it was a taste f home that alleviated some of the longing that I’ve been experiencing. A few times during the day, despite the easier nature of the riding, I found myself becoming overwhelmed with emotions. These incorporated the task in front of me, what to do for next year and overall the feeling of maybe biting off more than I can chew in this second section of my tour. The afternoon went by without incident. Although after stopping to try and find some WIFI (unsuccessfully) and devouring 750ml of chocolate yoghurt drink found myself (unsurprisingly) feeling not so well. My stomach started aching, and with the added pressure of the waist straps I had to pull over for a break. It was not long before I decided to pull up stumps on day two of this test. My tent was still a little damp from the night before, so I tried to give it some time to air out, but when the air is so damp, things don’t seem to dry as fast as they would on a hot Alice Springs day. Although I am feeling fresher this evening, I have started to experience some cramps, and when you are in a small tent, it’s not the easiest thing to alleviate them. Hopefully they abate overnight and I can get a restful and recuperative sleep.







Well the morning couldn’t have gone much worse. It was a typically foggy morning, and thanks to the wonderful teachings of one Mrs Vida my immediate thought turned to pathetic fallacy. This is a literary technique that links the weather to the emotions of a particular character. So, in this instance the gloomy and depressing weather was linked to my gloomy and somewhat pessimistic outlook. So I packed up reasonably early in the hope of making more of the day than previously done. So by 9:10 I was off on the road, cautiously once more in consideration of the fog. Reaching the next town I took the road to where I intended to go. I thought the signposts were a little odd, it felt as though I was heading back towards where I had come from the night before. Yet I persisted, convinced that it must be right. Alas my dear friends, I was sorely mistaken. As I progressed further along this road it was becoming clearer that my initial suspicions were indeed correct and this had indeed been the wrong road to take. Upon re-joining the original (and correct) road I was understandably frustrated both with myself and the misleading road signs. A few choice words were thrown out into the cold damp air. As I said, not a great start. So after passing my camping spot for a second time I was once again on the road. By this time I had ridden about 10 km unnecessarily and wasted around an hour of my precious time. The morning was hard going, hilly to begin with and then followed by false flats. These are the scourges of any long distance ride, even worse (in some circumstances) than hills. It feels as though progress should be being made, but one cannot figure out why. Frustrating in the extreme. As I got closer to Cognac, home of the Grand Marnier, the country certainly got more beautiful. I was undoubtedly making my way into the wine region. I reached the city by mid-afternoon, with only a gain of 60 or so km to show for the majority of a day’s work. I was definitely in need of some moral support, and so called on the old parentals for some guidance. I had hit the wall, emotionally more than anything. I’ve certainly come to realise the incredible value of personal relationships (and at least meaningful human contact) over the last few days. I told them how I was feeling and what I was thinking in terms of progress on the trip. I felt as though I couldn’t continue much longer, certainly not through the Pyrenees and all the way along the Santiago De Compostella. As much as I would love to have completed it, I feel that it might be something I leave to complete another time. I’m proud of what I have done so far and don’t want to sully what I have done by trying to bite off more than I can chew. You never know though, I might have a change of heart by the time I write again. Mum and dad were a great support, although they didn’t make the decision for me (which is always a shame…) and possibly made it even more difficult. They urged me to reassess when I reach Bordeaux (hopefully by Sunday evening) which was sound advice. After talking with them for a good while, and regrouping I decided to make a few extra kms while I still had light. This was in the hope of making it to Bordeaux on the Sunday. It’s certainly touch and go, depending on the terrain. It’s about 100km in a day, which two months ago I would have scoffed at, but the nature of the beast has changed and I must revaluate my daily goals. The goalposts have shifted, so must my goal kicking. I rode for a good hour more, gaining 15 or so km before pulling over to prepare for the night. A good warm meal did my spirits the world of good, and I look forward to finishing Jekyll and Hyde this evening.







A much better day succeeded the last few. Multiple elements came together to allow for much greater distance to be made. The first, and immediately uplifting of these was the weather. Instead of waking to mist and fog, I woke to sunshine. Even if it was short lived, it meant the day started off in a more positive manner. I was up earlier than I had been recently in order to finally make good distance by lunch time. The mornings ride was filled with ups and downs. But as the morning wore slowly on the realisation that flatter terrain was on the way (much like in the Baltic) grew and grew. I hoped that my limited impression of the area (from Le Tour) was correct, and that the land was indeed kinder for a struggling cyclist. While the land grew flatter, the winds grew stronger. There were times that I felt if I stopped pedalling I would immediately start rolling backwards. That of course was not the case, but it’s how one feels when struggling against the forces of Mother Nature. By lunch time, I still was unsure whether or not I could traverse the distance to Bordeaux by a reasonable hour. I was blessed in the afternoon with quiet roads. There was a time when I didn’t see a passing car for an hour or two. It makes riding easier, one doesn’t feel the pressure to ride quickly when there is nothing to compare one’s pace to. Pushing the pedals all afternoon to the dulcet tones of John Safran and Father Bob meant that Bordeaux was coming ever closer. I ticked off a few landmarks along the way, crossing some rivers to mark my progress. Passing through the town of St. Vincent De Paul took my mind off the pain in my legs for a little while. BY this time, I was pretty certain that I would make it. I was too close not to. My mind then turned to the terrible thought of being denied a room at the hostel. That would have crushed my spirit a great deal. Upon my belated arrival (at around 6:30) I made my way to the nearest McDonalds, in order to locate the hostel. Fortunately they had rooms to spare, and greatly relieved I forced my tired body onwards. It was a great feeling of satisfaction that swept over me upon my eventual arrival. It had been a tough few days, a rea mental struggle in order to get here. I took a beautiful cold shower, got dressed in something respectable (and clean) and went off to find some food. I devoured a 4 stacked burger and chips at the nearest burger bar, and put a dent in my hunger. I thought it would be appropriate to celebrate with a little bottle of wine. Disappointingly I forgot that they still use corks for their wine bottles here, which meant that by the time I arrived back at the hostel I was unable to enjoy it. Still, it was a much more pleasant day, one rounded off with a brief stint watching some classic Office episodes. Although the day was better, I still have to consider what the next course of action is to be. I feel as though much more riding could crush me.



I spent today enjoying the company of my family. I was able to speak with the majority of them (Eb and Mum and Dad) which improved my mood a great deal. Although some of the conversations had were hard and stressful (like what to do now that I’ve made it to Bordeaux) it was great to be able to communicate freely with them. I wish I could talk with Lal and Em as easily. That took up the majority of the morning, and after finishing up there I headed into the city for a quick scout around. The city of Bordeaux is beautiful, lots of nice old buildings along the river, coupled with the cobblestoned streets of the city itself. The weather took a turn for the worse though and I’ve headed back to the safety of the hostel to write my blog and watch some more House of Cards. I’m still unsure of how to approach the coming weeks. I think it might involve a touch more riding, a touch more travelling by conventional means, and even a touch of Asia on the way back. Whatever it holds I look forward to experiencing it, and sharing it with you. (And don't forget to donate... if you've got the money)



Cheers ,



Tikka

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