Day 9: Nexon to Vigeois (63km)

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Last night it rained hard for most of the night. Rain was forecast for today so I am hoping perhaps it has arrived early and will pass. In the morning it looks very unsettled although the rain lets up occasionally. In the end I decide to risk packing up and heading off, as there’s not much else to do.

As I head out of Nexon it tips down again but I find my waterproof has a hood that fits under my helmet, so it’s not too bad. I stop for a cake and bread and have a funny misunderstanding that would have amused my father. Having asked for the cake I asked for a ficelle (literally string), knowing this is the name for a thin loaf half the size of a baguette. The lady looks puzzled and brings out the ribbon thinking I want the cake gift wrapped. Ah, she says, you mean ficelle comme le pain! Misunderstanding resolved.

I get pretty wet but by the time I reach Coussac (with impressive chateau) it is looking better and after two large coffees I am back on the road to Lubersac. I take a very scenic route via Pampelune, which is a serious horse breeding area with fields full of mares with their foals. This stretch of road must be 10km and I pass exactly one vehicle.

In Lubersac I stop to buy a detailed map, as for some reason my old maps end here. About to re-mount, I notice the sky looks dubious and find shelter under a café awning. Just as well, as a few minutes later the heavens open and there is the biggest deluge I have ever seen, with the streets awash with water. I cannot believe my luck to have found shelter just now.

In light rain I continue to St Pardoux, and I see Vigeois signposted. This is a fairly easy route with no major hills. Finally, the road descends towards the Vezere and I look across the valley to see my destination, Vigeois, in a distinctly wet and grey setting!

As I enter Vigeois I record my arrival with a photo and note the distance from Dieppe - 720km. It’s mid-afternoon and I sit in a shelter in the Place munching damp bread and pate sandwiches which taste exquisite. The sun comes out!

Having pitched my tent at the campsite 1km out of the village (by the Lac de Poncharal) I return for dinner. The Hotel du Midi is the obvious destination. If I didn’t know otherwise, I would assume that it was so called because it is mainly open at mid-day: the sign in the window says “the restaurant is closed on Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evenings”. Fortunately for me it is a Friday! The hotel is almost totally unchanged from its appearance in the 1960s, apart from a hideous carving above the fireplace. The food is excellent and the proprietors very pleasant.

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