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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 46.3153, -0.609801
Well, Dear Reader, whether you are new to these pages or returning to our long distance caravanning saga, we are currently on Day 13 since leaving home on Friday, 22nd April, in Western France at Coulon which is 40 minutes or so due east from La Rochelle.
We began the trip with three nights at Rookesbury Park Caravan Club site so as to spend some time with expectant daughter and husband. A pub lunch on the Saturday was followed by a relaxing afternoon chatting and snoozing, while the following day was very energetic for Olley as he ran the Southampton half-marathon accompanied by Dean, his cousin Angie's partner. After completing in a respectable time they returned to Angie's where she had prepared a delicious curry meal for us all.
On the Monday morning, having moved to a ferry pitch near the site exit so as not to disturb others, we left at 7.00am for Portsmouth ferry terminal to check in for the 8.15 departure. The queue was minor (we were the sole caravan outfit) but the process slow and meticulous down to the point of checking that the length of the caravan was as booked. Further along, the inside of the
caravan was inspected as was under the bonnet of the car, probably in case of explosive devices rather than wanting a look at a BMW X3 engine!
Six hours later and after a quiet crossing, we disembarked in the rain at the familiar Ouistreham (the port for Caen) to make the hour-long journey to our first stop at the municipal campsite in Argentan. Although I had sent an email enquiry about availability, this had not been acknowledged, but we turned up anyway (done this before with no problems). However, it backfired on us on this occasion as the barrier was down at the entrance and the warden advised that the site was closed due to waterlogged pitches. He spoke reasonable English and advised of a nearby site which was likely to take us, which was a pity since his campsite receives very favourable reviews and looked pristine. Another time, perhaps.
A quick 'phone call confirmed a pitch was available, so we made our way to Camping Municipal de la Vee at Bagnoles de l'Orne where we swiftly pitched in the rain. With the very good free wifi we decided that although it was fine for a night halt, there was probably not
sufficient to keep us there for much longer so decided to email ahead to our next intended destination which was just north of La Rochelle. A prompt reply advised that they were not accepting caravans for this season. A bit strange but maybe they are moving over to renting seasonal pitches, I don't know. So it was back to the drawing board where we found the silver lining to our cloud in Camping La Venise Verte, just outside Coulon, in the Marais Poitevin.
With its 270,000 acres, the Marais Poitevin, a wetland stretching from Niort to the ocean is the second largest in France after the Camargue, and is recognised as an important natural area rich in wildlife, architecture and history. Our particular area, as suggested by the name of the campsite, is known as "Green Venice" as it is crisscrossed by waterways, both natural and man made with much vegetation and tree-life, making it a haven for cyclists, canoeing, walking, wildlife enthusiasts and those seeking tranquility and natural beauty.
Whilst here we have explored Coulon, a gentle stroll from our campsite, with its "port" (I use the term loosely) which has been active since the Middle Ages but now serves man-powered
leisure craft such as the flat bottomed tourist punts. I have not seen any motorised boats like those we see on British canals or the Broads.
Friday, we drove an hour towards the coast to take a look at the Ile de Re which is accessed via the modern toll bridge. We had a tasty lunch at La Courade with local wine before setting back, reaching the conclusion that it's just as well we didn't book a site on the island - enough said.
Sunday, being May Day (the 1st), was a public holiday in France though they don't seem to make a weekend of it like us, but most shops and businesses do close for the day. After lunch, we drove the few miles to Arcais, another former "port" to take a stroll beside the waterways where we encountered many people fishing, which seems just as popular over here as in the UK. Along the way, was a chain boat which anyone could use to get from one bank to the other, at no charge - nice idea but how long it would remain serviceable back home, I don't know.
Monday, David got his first bike ride of the holiday (solo, since
I have given up after my fall last year in Millau). There are miles of flat-ish roads nearby that are fairly quiet, so it is a popular recreation.
Yesterday morning, a lady with a small van came onsite and set up a stall on tables in the undercover wifi area selling local produce. Despite the site being far from full occupancy, most of the campers seemed to purchase something from her so I hope it was profitable. We opted for local red wine (no surprise there then) and some luxury biscuits, but other items from which to choose were jars of beans, fruit and vegetable juices, pâtés and cake. Nice experience and it's helping the local economy.
Later in the day, we drove out to Nieul-sur-l'Autise which is just outside of the Marais Poitevin to visit the restored Abbaye of Sainte-Vincent. The abbey was not only a place of prayer and contemplation, but also the centre of intense economic activity for the draining and development of the marshes. The structure has been restored and made sound, to include several displays such as interpretation panels about the history of the site, a number of reproductions of Romanesque musical instruments and audiovisual tools bringing
to life characters through holograms telling their story. A worthwhile trip to an interesting venue.
After a relaxing week and a bit, we are to leave Camping La Venise Verte in the morning but it will be on our list of favourite sites to which we would like to return sometime. Nice area, good facilities, lovely people.
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Barbara
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Lovely to start reading another of your travel blogs Lynne. Safe and fun travels!