Spiritual beauty near Mount Canigou

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Geo: 42.576, 2.34444

As nearby Villefranche-de-Conflent was going to be busy today with activities for the medieval festival, we chose to head for the peace and quiet of the hills, or more appropriately the area around Mount Canigou, to visit the Abbey of Saint-Martin.

Just 20 minutes from the site is the small village of Castiels and as far as we could go with the car, so we then took the 30-40 minute up-hill hike to the Abbey itself. Underfoot is a concrete road which is travelled by Defenders ferrying those unable or who choose not to go on foot, and presumably supplies and other deliveries. The route twists and turns, but it is the heat that is the 'killer' for me, so I was glad that we had set off reasonably early, but also to be in time for the 12.30 tour - visitors are not able to amble freely around the confines of the Abbey - just as well given the inappropriate behaviour of some of the children.

Although the commentary delivered by the monk, our guide, was in French, there are information sheets available in a variety of languages thankfully. In a nutshell, the original Benedictine Abbey was built in the 11th century, and by the 1700s there were only five monks still in residence who eventually asked to leave. On their departure, the locals took away stonework leaving the buildings in a sorry, ruined state. However, by the early 20th century, a programme of intensive restoration got under way instigated by the Bishop of Perpignan, then later influenced by Father Bernard de Chavannes, a Benedictine monk, so that by about 1980, using as much of the original masonry and features as possible, the current Abbey structures evolved.

The result is stunning and inspirational in its simplicity. The remote location itself is amazing, being surrounded by high, forested cliffs with towering mountains of the Pyrenees in the far distance, and on the approach it is totally hidden from view until you turn the final bend in the roadway.

The architecture itself is typically monastic, incorporating cloisters, crypt, chapel and bell tower (the latter rang out a lengthy peal of bells at mid-day as we arrived), constructed in stone and wood, presumably using many of the skills and techniques employed in the original structure. They are not totally set in the past though, since lighting, power and water are installed, they have a website and can take payments by debit/credit card in the gift shop!

It is currently inhabited by the Community of the Beatitudes, but the revenue from the visitor experience obviously assist with maintenance and daily running costs. A worthwhile and memorable experience.

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Comments

[Barbara]

Yet more amazing scenery!

[lynnib]

Hi! Yes, looks like a Machu Pichu moment!