On the Quai in Marseille (or, Lunch at Flunch with the Peruvian guy)

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So this weekend I went to Marseille to collect info on the theater there for my research project- because I'm that kind of overachiever that I decide to do a school project 3,000 miles removed from the school. However, I couldn't find the above-mentioned theater, so in some ways the whole of my Saturday was wasted. But not really, because I still had a good time.

I decided that Marseille would be the first site I would grace with my presence because I figured that it was close and I didn't really know what I was doing. When you don't know what you're doing, I've found its always better to do it in a large city where no one will remember you being an idiot. I immediately started my day this way by making the poor bus driver take my 20 euro bill for the 4,40 euro fare because I had nothing smaller. Then I dropped some of those damn 2 euro coins and made a complete ass of myself. I proceeded to sit in my seat, cringing at the memory for the whole ride to Marseille.

The bus drops you off at Marseille around this big Arc de Triomphe that is a little tacky. The whole way in you see tenements with laundry hanging outiside and graffiti on all the bridges and buildings and then there's this little rotary with this big Arc and facing it is a McDonald's. So right away you're not too impressed. I had no idea where I was, so I followed the second rule of what to do when you don't know what you're doing- Start Walking, and Keep Walking. I just picked a direction that was downhill (down to the harbor I hoped) and started moving. Thankfully I went in the right direction and after a right turn down a large boulevard I found myself looking out across Marseille's famous Vieux Port.

There was a fish market going on, so I explored the stands of the ocean's smelly bounty, then decided to get down to business. I knew the theater was thataway, so I just strolled along the waterfront. I made a detour to the Musee de Romaine Docks and was the only person there. Yay for me. So I tried a couple side streets, but found no sign of the elusive theater. So I whipped out the trusty guidebook and headed up past the Romanesque Eglise St. Laurent to the gawdy Gothic/Byzantine Cathedrale La Nouvelle Major. Apparently this is the largest church after some other big ones and that's what it was: big. But I didn't really feel any awe. It was just so obviously a 19th century attempt to be impressive and it sort of fell short.

So to make a long story short I couldn't find the theater, but went over to the Musee d'Histoire de Marseille and paid 1 euro to be the first and only tourist there at the moment. The museum is inside this big shopping center, which was a little odd, but what was even more odd was that there was a French shopping center. Crazy! So after exploring their Roman remains I retraced my steps (somewhat) and hopped on the first bus back to Aix. Marseille is a decent city, but it reminded me of Bridgeport, CT, except with better architecture.

I got back to Aix starving and decided to stop at Flunch, this place by the Office du Tourisme. I had no idea what I was doing, but it turned out to be France's answer to Old Country Buffet. After making an ass of myself for the second or third time that day I met a Peruvian guy in line to get my quart de poulet. We ate together and went back and forth in French and English depending on how much we could say and be understood. Turns out he's a student who lives in a coastal town to the east of Marseille. He wanted to know why I didn't have a boyfriend and I felt like punching him. Not really. So anyway, I left after we exchanged email addresses and he said that I should visit him in his village. Yeah right dude! I'm not a loose American floozy! But now I have a "meeting a guy" story and my life is complete.

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Photos

Boats in Marseille's Vieux Port
I liked the nets.

La Nouvelle Major
Big cathedral- 'nuff said.

Comments

[Dad]

good work
Sarah, You are learning to walk in foreign cities. Too bad more Americans did not walk around our cities. Then they would not be so fat and soft. Did you ever find the ruins? They must be there somewhere. Could not the museum staff help you? Why did you not stop for food in town before returning to Aix? I would not go to that guy's small town. Go to Monaco instead, maybe the Prince needs some company and you can gamble his money away and not mine. Sounds like you sleep well with all that walking. You are also eating a lot of bread. Any vegetables available? How about an Israeli orange to prevent scurvey? We are cold here and awaiting spring. It would be warmer in the basement office then. I hope you find the ruin and write your paper. We can hardly wait until you return and we go to the LOTS convention. -Dad