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Published: September 30th 2007
The route
Total 704 km.This is an account of a cycling trip I took in France in August 2007, drawn from letters home to my wife. The plan was to start in Bayonne, at the Atlantic coast, and go across to the Mediterranean coast at Narbonne. The route would climb into the Pyrenees, taking in at least one Tour de France col before heading North and following river valleys and the Canal du Midi. I based the first three days on recommendations from members of the Cycle Touring Club, the rest I made up as I went along.
Wednesday 22nd Aug
It was a long journey on the bike bus. - but longer for most as they’d come from up North yesterday morning. One chap I spoke to had cycled from his home - leaving at midnight on Tuesday! Hard core - he must have been well over 60.
Ferry was empty and sea was rough - I almost lost my wine as it slid across the table.
Drove through the night - entertained by a Tour de France DVD on the coach, and turfed out into the pouring rain at Bayonne. “Bon Courage!” yelled a motorist. Ominous.
Thursday 23, St Palais. 69km
Started
European Bike Express
This bus travels from North East England to France and Spain and back twice a week. The bikes go in the trailer cycling at 9 am had lunch at 12.45, then carried on from 14.15 arriving here at 15.15 that’s 69k in 4 hrs (I stopped for coffee) - say 18k per hour. (If I’d spent more on a cycle computer it would have told me that).
Started at Bayonne - following the river West, then took the D312 to Briscous, then D21 to Hasparren then D14 to St Palais, stopping at St Esteban for lunch. The first bit to Briscous started flat, then a gradual climb. After Briscous it was up and down all the way. I don’t mind climbing, because there is always the reward of a pretty view and a freewheel down the other side.
At restaurant in Esteban I lunched with a French chap - we had arrived at the same time and there was no one else there. I was soaked - left a trail of water across the tiled floor - almost went tits up in my cleats. When I rose to leave there was a puddle around my seat! At least the French chap told me how to apologise - “Je suis desolee”.
Friday 24 Aug, Laruns 110 km
Had a very good
River at St Palais
The river was in full flood, but it looked as though this was a fairly regular occurrence nights sleep - woken at about 6 by noisy binmen. Got my route for the day all sorted - had breakfast and made to leave— Oh dear - a flat tyre! Pumped it semi-hard by hand (ooer missus) then took it to garage to do the rest.
Went East out of St Palais, then over rolling countryside to Charrite de Bas. Once there turned south to follow the valley up to Mauleon-Licharre. Nice flat riding, fields of corn, pretty houses. Wasn’t very impressed with Mauleon so didn’t stop there. Carried on past there, on the other side of the river and stopped for a break at Trois Villes. After Trois Villes I turned east to head for Arrette.
Once I left the river valley there were a few climbs. At Arrette I had a picnic lunch by the river. No on else there - this is August! After Arrette more up and downs - lovely views as well, crossing the mountains to join the other valley at Asasp-Arros. Over the river then a 24k ride around the base of a mountain range to Louvie-Juzon.
This was beautiful riding past pastures, then about 10k of woodland.
Stopped for
a break, a load of police motorbikes went past, followed by cars covered in racing bikes, followed by a peloton of about 40 cyclists. I learned later it was the Piedmont Pyrenees race - whatever that is! Anyway - I carried on - getting overtaken by stragglers even when I stopped for a break by the river - ½ hr later.
The last 12k to Laruns was tiring, lovely road going up the river valley through pretty villages. Got the last room in the hotel - a beautiful but tired old building. After an unfortunate pizza (strong local cheese) I’m replete and weary. Looking forward to a good read and long sleep.
Saturday 25th Aug Argeles Gazost 40km
After my poor evening I had a very good nights sleep and awoke very slowly, read for a while, had a leisurely (large) breakfast - by the way café au lait was a pint of black coffee and ½ a pint of hot milk! - and then changed the inner tube on my bike tyre and fixed the punctured one.
I stopped in the town centre for half an hour or so to buy lunch and water, then set
Rainbow
Weather starting to brighten up off to climb the Col d’Aubisque - a scary Tour de France col 15km and 1200m vertically from Laruns. I guess you knew I’d have to do one - I’ve scratched that itch now. It was a steady climb all the way, i.e. no dips down that you have to reclimb. The views were superb - I stopped very frequently to take pictures (not because I wanted a rest you understand), and the scenery changed with every 50m up or so. Also quite scary that there were only very low walls at the edge of a very long drop. I stayed well away from those.
Every other cyclist I saw overtook me. I left Laruns at 10.30 and arrived at the top at 3pm. 15km in 4½ hrs - work out my average speed!
At the top I had a rest and coffee, then the most glorious freewheel down the mountain. The top was above the cloud - a bit weird.
I must have freewheeled 30km or so - great to have a fast ride with no effort - and freewheeling on a bike is the best - also the scenery changed so fast, from ski slopes
to diary pasture, through the tree belt then the lower valley, which led to my location now.
Had a nice meal - starter was a salad Catalan - lettuce, tomato, a few black olives, an artichoke heart, a few anchovies. I write the ingredients for a future lunch at home. Main course was Confit de Canard, or duck and chips! Grumpy waitress but Dire Straits music compensated.
Sunday, Lourdes 20km
The bells at the church near where I stayed last night start to ring at 7am. I know, they were right outside my window. They toll the hour twice, in case you were asleep and missed the first one.
Had breaky, usual café au lait etc. outside in the town square in the sunshine. Perfect.
My route to Lourdes was via the Voie Vert, a cycle track made from an old railway line. But French. So, it’s tarmac’d, sign posted at points of interest along the way, and well used. Perfect.
Arrived Lourdes around lunchtime and asked at the tourist office for a hotel. She must have thought I was mad - this town is all hotels!
Checked into this one - I’m ashamed to say because
it had English satellite TV! It’s fine.
After a shower and a picnic lunch in the room I did the town. Loads of shops selling souvenirs, a bit tacky. Drank some water from the Grotto - everybody else was filling containers (bought locally) with the stuff, lugging it away. A lot of disabled and ill people here in 3 wheeled carriages; I think they are here to be immersed in the waters. Stalls selling magazines telling of the latest miracles - all helps to keep the beliefs going I suppose.
I went up a funicular railway at a nearby mountain - the views of Lourdes and the mountains were fantastic - I took photos but I fear they don’t do it justice. I’d like to recommend it to you, but you’d hate the ride. I’m sure it was very safe, but just didn’t seem so. A bit too rattly for your liking!
Dinner was strange. The board outside offered a formule, the salle a manger (it was a hotel) was very nice and on the first floor. Traditional French, about 100 years old. Not too full, all other diners wore scarves and/or berets to indicate their pilgrim status.
I sat down, and the waiter plonked a plate and cauldron of soup on the table. “Le menu?” I asked, and received a Gallic shrug in reply. He thought I was part of a coach party. (If I’d kept schtum, would I have had a free dinner?)
Then the bill turned up before I’d finished. The waiter said he was going home, and if I want a pudding I should pay now, and fetch it myself from the counter. No way I said. (I was a bit angry). I’ll decide on pudding when I’ve finished my duck and chips (BTW strips of duck with a Roquefort sauce, very tasty). I was happy to pay on my way out at Reception, but I think he didn’t trust me or had been told to ensure I paid, so he hung around until I’d finished.
There was a lovely procession at the Sanctuaries, must have been 5000 people with a candle each, chanting in response to the priest, in the beautiful way the catholics do. A service from within the chapel (I think) was broadcast in major languages. I tagged along as I had the rest of the evening free, feeling a
little inadequate sans candle. All my clothes are dry and the forecast for the next 2 days is for fine and sunny weather.
Monday, Capvern les Bains 65km
Yesterday was hot. I spent the first half hour trying to find a bookshop to buy a dictionary. The only one that looked likely to was shut, it being Monday, so I pressed on.
I left Lourdes on the D-whatever - heading east. I’m afraid the names escape me but I’m sure I texted you along the way. In my quest for quiet roads I led myself into some unduly hilly country - pretty - but hard work in the heat. Had lunch in one of those places which are characterised by the main road running straight through it.
Horrible place but divine pastries from the patisserie. Anyway - more pedalling and more hills to Capvern les Bains. I was heading for Capvern proper - but les Bains looked a little more interesting. It turned out to be a tired, old spa town - lots of crumbly old buildings which would have been quite glorious in their prime.
Camping was a success - found a nice spot to pitch
up, showered and put my clothes to dry on the tent.
Dinner was cassoulet in a local bar (most of them were closed) - more duck! The waitress was about 60, and had her ironing set up at the back of the room (they weren’t busy). She wore a basque top under a black see-through thing. Looked a bit like an old tart! Still - she was pleasant enough.
It turned out that the campsite owner’s office didn’t open till 9am and the campsite manager must have been worried that I’d do a runner, so she came to the tent when I was all tucked up, took my passport off me till I’d paid next morning. “She” was the butch one in a lesbian (I’m sure) couple, so I did well not to argue. Still - she was very pleasant next morning.
Tuesday Carbonne 111km
It is nice to camp - because you have control over your environment. Hotels I’ve stayed in have been ok, but you don’t get to see what the room’s like until you’ve agreed in principle to staying. Where I am tonight - it’s okish - but Hobson’s choice because it’s the only hotel
in town. I got the last room!
I could have turned around and found a campsite, but I was rather hot and tired - so here I am! Tired old hotel, but a beautiful carved wardrobe in the room.
I had a good ride today - much faster (flatter) than yesterday, covering 111km. I’m following the river valley towards Toulouse and am almost there - but will probably turn East before Toulouse and then head for Carcassonne. The route was waymarked as a “piste cyclable”, mostly quiet roads and cycle paths all on tarmac. Following a signed route takes a lot of the guesswork involved in following ring roads. Hope to do more of the same tomorrow.
Wednesday, Castelnaudary 93km
It pissed down last night but no matter - I was tucked up in my comfy bed. Still raining when I got up for breaky.
Breakfast was self service stale bread, UHT milk, a microwave - at least a fresh pot of coffee was made.
No sign of Madame - I guess she isn’t a morning person - hence paying up the night before. I caught the forecast on TV - rain a.m.. and sun p.m. Only had
a few spots of rain to worry about.
Started out about 9, up the Garonne Valley for about 8km, then crossed the river and headed east along the D622. The next 40k turned out to be a succession of hill ranges divided by valleys, about 5 in all. They weren’t huge, but I am losing strength now and it takes me half the hill to settle into the rhythm of it. I was very pleased to meet the Canal du Midi before I hit Villefrance, and ride on the flat for the rest of the day.
Lunch was pastries on the banks of the canal - one family seated near me were obviously on holiday - had even brought their cat! (in a small cage). Really.
I took a wrong turn up the canal which added about an hour to the journey. In the evening, on reading a guide to the Canal I had bought it turned out that my “wrong turn” led me up the trial canal that Riquet, the founder of the canal, had dug at his own expense to demonstrate viability before the King would fund the construction of the canal - so, not
Col d
These very useful signs are at all the major TdF cols, i believe such a bad thing to have gone wrong.
As a slightly embarrassing by-the-by, I have had a compass in my bar-bag case all this trip - very useful to know you’re travelling in the right general direction.
Anyway, when I reached the canal I put it away, thinking that I couldn’t possibly get lost on a canal tow path………
Thursday and Friday, Carcassonne, 40km.
A good ride, 40km along the tow path, entering Carcassonne by the canal. Checked into the Hotel Central - one of the cheaper hotels in town, but an interesting building with some interesting slopes on the bedroom floor!. Still, it’s fine and I intended to stay here for two nights as I guess there is plenty to see here.
The medieval city is amazing. It is intact and thriving as a tourist attraction, full of shops and restaurants, and “earning it’s keep” while maintaining its historical identity.
The “new town”, where I stayed, is also interesting. Conceived and laid out in the 13th century, all the roads are on a “New York” chess board type layout, with very narrow streets.
On Friday I had a day off the
bike and took a train 20km or so up the valley to Limoux. There was a wonderful piano museum there - I was the only visitor! The attendant kindly let me have a go on a couple of pianolas, as well as a play on a see - through piano with a Perspex cabinet. The best of it was that there was an audio guide in English which took you through the history of the piano - unusual in France - like us they normally expect you to understand their language.
Saturday, Narbonne, 110 km
The canal towpath is cyclable, but the section towards Narbonne is lumpy with tree roots and stones, so is hard work. So bumpy that my specs in their case bounced out of the bar bag. I went back up the path 10km or so to try to find them, but no luck. A little worrying, without them I can’t see the map!
After that I thought I should make for Narbonne as quickly as possible, to maximise the chances of finding a replacement pair.
Left the towpath at Redorte and took the D611 to Narbonne. Due East with a very stiff
Westerly breeze behind, panniers acting as sails, I was able to sustain 35—40 kph hardly pedalling. Great.
At Narbonne I easily found a replacement pair in a pharmacy, and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the town and treated myself to a rather good hotel for the last night.
The Bike bus was due to pick me up at 2:30 pm, so in the morning I checked out and went for a 40km round trip to Narbonne Plage. The road was a little unpleasant with traffic, taking me over hills through the Clape winegrowing region (luvvit). Cresting the hill, I saw the Med, and could consider the job done.
From the plage a rather good network of piste cyclables through a nature reserve and the towpath of the Canal du Robine led back to Narbonne, and the bus home.
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