midi pyranees

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2nd September 2007

Cooked pasta dinner and then set off back into Chartres again with English couple from site (Tim and Jean) to go to a clarinet interlude in the cathedral starting at nine. It was an awsome experience sitting in the dark listening to the wonderful music with bats flying around our heads. The conductress was an unlikely, fascinating character and she played in the last song and brought a brilliance to the group. At the end of the evening at 10 we walked out of the cathedral but the best was yet to come. There was an illuminere display on the south face of the massive cathedral. Slowly pictures were dropped down onto areas of the facade until eventually the fascia of the cathedral had turned to a medieval picture and then ultimately to Mary and child joined in music by the allelulia chorus. It was an absolutely amazing experience that left our hearts racing and a feeling of being overwhelmed. We walked back through the town and throughout the walk there were medieval figures lit against the walls of houses, and the bridges had calligraphy imposed underneath the arches - the day just got better and better! Why can we not do things like this at home - the whole event was free? I know the French moan about high taxes but they seem to get a lot for them - beautifully kept towns, villages and wonderful green areas with free camper stops and picnic halts. On arrival home with the kettle half boiled for a needed cuppa the electric went out - oh the joys of camping.
Monday 3rd
Woke at 8 thinking of everyone getting ready for school - strange feeling. Distinct chill to the morning, ugh. Set off for a place called Gien on the River Loire. Arrived two hours later to cold wet drizzle and although the town of Gien looked lovely we decided to push on a bit further south to find some warmer weather - after all it is supposed to be warmer south of the Loire? At the campsite Andy had selected there were big signs "in case of floods run - AND DON'T LOOK BACK!" Stopped for lunch and then moved on to a place called St Amand Montrand, south of Bourges. Parked right on the bank of the River Cher, but still , raining. St Amand's claim to fame is being the central point of France. Next day walked to village and up to a panoramic view point and picked blackberries and apples for a crumble and lots of fresh walnuts.
Tuesday 4th
Popped out for provisions and then back to site as some friends Jenny and Tony who used to live two doors away in Colchester who were on their way back from a tour of Eastern Europe had phoned to say they would join us. As it was Tony's birthday on Wednesday 5th, booked in for another two nights and as only 6 euros with free washing machine and hot water bit of a bargain, added to which sun came out and was hot all day! Birthday meal of roast pork which was yummy, washed down with lots of wine so good night was had by all.
Thursday 6th
Woke to sunshine although it is very cold in the van first thing - need to find some slippers and also how to sort out a rather unpleasant smell coming up from our waste container. Bit sad saying goodbye and I felt as though I wanted to return home with them, but then home, what home? Stopped at supermarket and filled up with diesel 1 euro per litre and purchased some cosy slippers for 3 Euro and a rug for the floor as its cold first thing and Harpic which seems to have stopped the dreadful smell. Drove for about an hour and a half and stopped at a small place south of Montlucon, Auzances. Stayed night on a poultry farm as part of the French Passion scheme, whereby you buy a book which entitles you to stay for free at any of the1500 participating farms, vineyards, craft centres. The idea is that you greet the owner and offer to buy some produce and he lets you stay. Our first experience of this was strange. The owner did not speak one word of English (why should I expect him too?) There were geese and chickens on the farm which was almost derelict. The place had advertised a restaurant which we found although that was bizarre; it was like people had left in middle of meal or suchlike - tables were uncleared and dregs of wine still in glasses and cheese still on table. When it was last used, who knows; one thing it had huge potential but needed mega bucks spent on it. Our van 'pitch' was situated looking over a large reservoir so I spent evening bird watching but only saw a couple of hawks and two grebes catching tea. As the evening turned cool switched satelitte on and picked up Eastenders - how miserable that was!
Friday 7th
Said goodbye to owner and felt strange not paying any money. After only one mile there was a deviation on our route which took us about 25 miles out of our way on the most tiny single track roads. It was a hairy hour, especially when we came face to face with a herd of cows being moved down this single track. There were we in the middle of the road with nowhere to go and 3 French herdsman disregarding our expensive set of wheels. We felt sick with fear as the cows pushed either side of us - if one of them had reared up they would have gone through the side of our poor vehicle. However we were unscathed. Continued journey, mostly upwards on single track when suddenly we were driving across a dam which was a wondrous sight - we were so high up and the dam was such a shock. Stopped and ate the usual baguette with chards of crust like schrapnel across our home. I felt I could not look down it was so far so took Andy's photo from sitting in the van! It really was a scary journey although the scenery throughout the gorge was amazing when we could bring ourselves to peek! - Ivan, put on your shorts and bring out your Adria twin - may make life easier! Eventually we arrived at Conques, place recommended to us. The campsite we booked into was on the river Dordou and our pitch beside the running river - fantastic (though tight getting vehicle onto site and set up due to low trees and narrow walkways). Had a well deserved Stella and set off to walk into Conques - only ten minutes apparently. What they did not say it was ten minutes vertical walk. But boy was it worth it. Conques is made up of exceptional and miraculously preserved architecture, an inheritance from the middle ages and hardly changed! It was spectacular. The romanesque abbey church of Ste foy (Saint Faith), I really loved. It had an imposing nave of stone which totally caught me unprepared due to the sheer elevation; you could hardly see the roof. It was plain without the usual ornate trappings I was getting used to. Andy would not come in (as he was wearing shorts!) but I sat and listened to an organ recital which was bizarre listening to Greensleeves!Had a beer in a bar and then walked back in sweltering heat and cooked a barbeque.
Saturday 8th
Laid in bed first thing with windows open and watched the river flowing down stream with two pairs of grey wagtails searching for breakfast. Cooked ours - last of English bacon in yet another baguette. Left site about 11 to drive south of Rodez where we stayed in somewhere different for us, a more commercial site on the edge of an enormous lake - Lac de Pareloup. Really hot, but braved the cold water for a quick dip and walked as far as could and then spent leisurely day sunbathing. Decided to stay another day to give Andy a break from driving. Finished up a steak pie brought from UK (from freezer) in the good old Remoska - to be totally recommended if anyone thinking of getting one - thank you to school governors for the gift!

Just crossed Millau bridge _ fantastic! now heading to Lourdes then over Pyranees to Spain
Love to all
A and A

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