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Europe » France » Languedoc-Roussillon » Nîmes
December 22nd 2010
Published: December 22nd 2010
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December 21, 2010
Today we jumped in our borrowed jalopy, an itsy-bitsy Renault Clio (with our thanks to Paul’s old French pal Elian who offered it) and drove to Chateauneuf du Pape, home of France’s most exalted wine. Between Nimes and Chateauneuf du Pape are thousands upon thousands of acres of pruned grape vines, sometimes as far as the eye could see. It must all look so different in the Spring and Summer when they are lush with leaves. Still, I liked it; there is beauty in the starkness of those bare stems.
I always imagined Chateauneuf du Pape as a single, fabulous winery with acres of lush of grape vines. But, as I discovered, it is, in fact, both a quaint town and a region. The “chateau” itself looms imposingly over the town, although only two walls remain. The sight of these was very cool and all – the village, the castle, the many wineries - but not what I imagined! I had no idea that there are 350 wineries in the immediate area that comprise this “appellation”– so, yup, you live and learn!! We purchased one bottle – how could we not? - for 15 Euros, a ridiculous steal if we were in Canada but which was a princely sum for us because we have been buying 3 Euro bottles of local wine that have been just great.

Driving in France is fun…as in “fun crazy loonie scary” fun. Just about everybody has small cars and large gas pedals. And, of course, the roads in the old towns and villages are impossibly narrow – just fine in the days of ox carts and walkers. Apparently, so Elian told us, French drivers have slowed down in recent years, thanks to the introduction of radar and steep fines. But who would’ve known it? We all shot around those roundabouts like so many go-cart racers high on catnip. It doesn’t matter how fast you drive either (and this I guarantee): you will have somebody attached to your bumper. I just did my best to ignore the tailgaters and arrive home alive. And this blog entry is my proof that I succeeded.

You will notice in the pictures that there are no people!! A definate advantage to being here in the Winter; except for the main shopping areas, the small towns are deserted, which makes it really nice for us for exploring as we don't have to fight crowds. However, along with that many things are closed ie chateaus, gardens etc.


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