Basque Country and Beyond...


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April 2nd 2006
Published: April 2nd 2006
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St Jean Pied de PortSt Jean Pied de PortSt Jean Pied de Port

This is a quaint little town in the heart of the Pays Basque (Basque Country). Many pilgrims completing the St Jacques de Compostella trail pass through here, and there are many "gites d'étapes," humble lodging accomodations, often bearing the famous "Coquille St Jacques" (coquille=shell). We entered a pottery workshop, and chatted with the artisan for a while...I decided to buy something small from him, and I spotted a "coquetier" (the tiny cups that hold boiled eggs) and I had a "coup de coeur" (I just had to purchase it!) But let us return to the picture...this is the shot that is often depicted on post cards, and for good reason!
Coucou mes amis! Hola mis amigos! Ni hao wo de pengyou! Hi there, my friends!
I've many adventures to share, and it's about time I update "mettre à jour" my lovely site.
So, I'll try to highlight some of the finer memories and moments... I became acquainted with "pigeonniers," those dwellings wherein rest pigeons (I'm sure there's a term in English, but I haven't bothered to consult a dictionnary, and this way you pick up a bit of French, nifty, eh?)
I tried duck hearts--let's say my curiosity was satisfied after the first time. Boudin, which I think is a sort of blood sausage, I found rather tasty. No pics of these delicacies though! For those of you who are fond of sugary somethings, I did try "gateau basque" which is made of almond paste. I highly recommend it--and it seems fairly easy to find in the area (being a speciality, c'est logique).
I met a very nice chef at our "auberge de jeunesse" (youth hostel) who was incredibly friendly and kind-hearted. He set out breakfast for my friend and I, and packed us individual apple pies to eat later that day. My experience in the Pays Basque has encouraged me
Not your average castle...Not your average castle...Not your average castle...

Behold the Chateau de Pau, a bustling city in the Béarn (we're now a bit east of the Pays Basque...) Henri IV of Navarre called this humble abode home in his enfancy... he's said to have used a tortus shell as a crib, and it was on display in the castle. The guide was very knowledgable, and I learned from him that there's a place in Paris called "Gobelins" where experts restore old tapestries that's open to the public from time to time...
to learn more about their culture--I bought a Basque langage and culture book, a CD with traditional music, and plan to go back someday...
In fact, that's my outlook on France in general--I know I'll have to return, one time won't cut it!
I'll go home a happy girl if I step foot in Bretagne (Brittany), see a corrida (preferably in Spain, but apparently they exist in the south of France as well), try escargots, and go for a ride in a "moto" (that's my ultimate dream...)
Have a marvelous spring!


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Cordes sur Ciel from afarCordes sur Ciel from afar
Cordes sur Ciel from afar

I finally made it to Cordes sur Ciel! Originally I planned to tour the town during Toussaint (=All Saints Day), but the buses weren't running. And so I waited, and patience paid off! We picnicked near this spot--I remember that Françoise made a crumble, and that it was a bit windy, so we had to be on our toes to catch any napkins that were determined to fly away. I have to say that this is the most pictoresque village I've seen yet.
Shell ShotShell Shot
Shell Shot

And so here you have a home adorned with the shell I mentioned...
The Maze-like Square in MontaubanThe Maze-like Square in Montauban
The Maze-like Square in Montauban

Our brief stay in the Tarn ended with a very pleasant meal at a Mexican restaurant in Montauban--we explored the city a bit that evening, and I found the "place" (square) very striking. Apparently there used to be a market here long ago, and the merchants would set their goods on the floor, and were able to monitor them through a hole in the floor (at least, I believe that's the story--it's possible I misunderstood, my French isn't flawless hehe).
Mountains covered with powdered sugar...Mountains covered with powdered sugar...
Mountains covered with powdered sugar...

I'm treating you to another glimpse of St Jean Pied de Port...this time we're nearer the train station (that's "gare" for those of you French students!) Of course the mountains caught my eye...especially how the snow level is very uniform!
Boats Beached in BiarritzBoats Beached in Biarritz
Boats Beached in Biarritz

Say my title ten times fast! Walking along the coast, I stumbled upon this little port. We usually picture boats floating happily above the sea, but alas, these fine fellows are waiting for those days to return.
Intriguing building...Intriguing building...
Intriguing building...

I spotted this "edifice" on the way to the train station in St Jean Pied de Port, and I simply had to document my finding. It reminds me of the pigeonnier (pigeon dwellings) that are sprinkled in the countryside of the Tarn, but I'm doubtful that it serves the same function. It remains a mystery...


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