Prades and Pigeon Take 2

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I am not yet clear whether Catalan acrobats perform at every feast or festival or only on special occasions. We certainly felt lucky today when we timed our excursion down the mountain to Prades perfectly, to coincide with the festival of St Pere. Approaching Prades from the highway is spectacular because of Mt Canigou looming above it, and once in town, approaching the main square near the cathedral is spectacular because the footpaths are made of red marble! I couldn't believe it when I looked down.

As we emerged from a little laneway near where we parked the car, a great big effigy of St Pere began bobbing in the air and the reedy Catalan wind instruments and drums began to play. It was all slightly surreal, but we decided to go with the flow and follow the procession of people trailing through the winding lanes after the enormous puppet. When everyone stopped, the people wearing green and those wearing red separated, and began forming a big circular mass . One by one, people began climbing on the back of those on the ground and creating a human tower. I think it might have been a race, because people on balconies nearby and on the street, cheered when finally a little child dressed in red reached the top. Seconds later the child dressed in green did the same. After a few minutes the procession set off again and we eventually made it back to the cathedral and centre square for the coffee we had originally come in search of. We sat under a pergola of vines, drinking our coffee and watching the local ladies set up long tables in the square for the lunch that was to follow.

We, however had our sights set on lunch at La Galie, a restaurant recommended to us. It didn't disappoint, and we were glad we swapped the very hot square for some air-conditioning. Summer has really arrived. As we walked down the street after leaving the restaurant, a well-dressed man pulled his very nice car over to talk to me (I assumed for directions). I was apologetic while explaining I didn't speak much French or Catalan but that I was happy to try to help. It turned out however, he had just stopped to pay a compliment. "No Madame," he said with animated expression "Votre fille, cest magnifique!" Hilarious - and yet not. Isabel did look particularly nice that day though.

We were very well fed and happy to lie by the pool once again before heading back to our room for a rest, certain we wouldn't need anything else to eat again. However, at about 9pm, tummies began rumbling - a problem because dinner in our hotel wasn't available after 9pm. A short walk up the hill and a short explanation about a large lunch had us sitting down for a repeat performance of our pigeon entrée from the previous night. We had expected just a quick snack, but no - our came the appetisers, amuse bouche and petit fours just as though we were sitting down for 3 courses, and a complimentary glass of the wine that I had enjoyed the previous night - apparently the chef was flattered we came back for the pigeon. As darkness descended, we sat in armchairs in the garden with candles lit, and were brought coffee and chocolate on a little tray while the sky turned from deep blue to black.

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Photos

St Pere on his way
Red acrobats vs green

"Votre fille, cest magnifique!"
I think this was the polite French version of a wolf whistle for my 15-year-old daughter! Ooh la la.

Festes de St Pere poster
We worked out what was going on from a poster in a shop window.

Lisa Prades
watching the procession