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Published: September 6th 2008
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Apartment in Latin Quarter
I liked that it was yellow. I'm finally in Paris! This entry will be much better when I get my pictures up.
Last night I determined that I would throw caution to the wind, and go for a metro ride outside of my comfort zone. So far, the only time I took the train was to get into the city from the airport, which doesn't really count, since the signs are all still in English there. I've just gotten lost every time I've stepped foot out of this apartment, so I was nervous to put myself on an inexorable speeding vehicle, ending up God-knows-where.
But today was the day. I forced myself up at 7:30 this morning, donned my red sneakers, and headed out into the brisk, murky-morning air. Being Saturday, the normal rush hour traffic was sleeping, and only a few intrepid adventurers shared the streets with me.
As has come to be expected, I missed the metro stop, went a few blocks past it, then realized something was amiss, and turned back around. The entrance had been on the other side of the street, and my tunnel vision couldn't see the bright red and white "Metro" sign. But second time around I found it, and
Rue Mouffetard Street Market
I think these are Oyster mushrooms? They're everywhere here. Absolutely crazy looking. descended the steps. The information desk was closed, so I couldn't buy the pack of tickets, which was too bad, because I knew I just had to go up and say, "
un carnet, s'il vous plait!" and hand them some money, then I'd be on my way.
Now I had to battle the French-instructioned ticket machine. It had this rolly wheel, which functioned kind of like an iPod click wheel, to choose your option. But all I got from the French was that I was supposed to spin this thing, so I was spinning away, wondering why nothing changed, before I realized it was a selector. I got my ticket, embarked on the train, made the proper connection, and came out in
le cinqieme arrondissement, the Latin Quarter. Last night, in preparation, I had studied the map, and even wrote out directions from the Metro to get to le Rue Mouffetard. However, something was missing again, and off I was, wandering the streets, completely
perdu. Luckily, it was still early yet, and no one was around to see me pull out my Paris street map (thank you Gary!). Even then, it took nearly half an hour to find the damn
street. Le Rue Mouffetard is sort of a big deal, so there were signs everywhere pointing it out. Too bad none of the signs pointed down actual streets. If I'd followed them, I'd have to cut through parks, and navigate through apartment buildings. Silly French.
But eventually I found it, and it was incredible! The streets were cobbled, and though there were some mopeds about, it was mostly a pedestrian street. Honestly, I was just looking for a cafe to eat some breakfast, and it took me a long time to find one that was open. I followed the street until I began to see awnings and tents, and remembered that one of the best street markets in the city was down here. It was just opening up, and was so sweetly Parisien, that I had to snap some pictures of all the displays. I also tried a free sample of canteloupe, and the vendor laughed at me when he saw my expression. Best melon I ever tasted.
Just past the market I found a nice cafe, with the chalkboard menu in front, describing the breakfast menu I'd been trying to order since I've been here, but couldn't figure out
Street Market
a Cremerie; so many kinds of cheese! how. Remember I mentioned those haughty waiters?
So this time, I sit down, and this small waiter man comes and looks at me expectantly, like they do. This time, I told him I wanted the breakfast, and pointed at the board, and chose a
cafe au lait and a
croissant. He nodded, started to walk away, then looked at me again, and with a flowery gesture of the wrist (indicating perfectly that, surely, this was his mistake, not mine) he asked, "
vous-voulez la formule?" Ah, yes!!! "
Oui, oui, la formule, silly me, that's what I meant to say, it just slipped my mind." I finally figured it out!!! If I want the whole breakfast meal, I have to ask for
la formule. That's how it's titled on the chalkboard, I should have known! So I got it, and it couldn't have tasted better if I'd hunted it down myself, and bitten it's raw, bloody heart. For 7.50 euro, I got a goblet of pressed orange juice, a
cafe au lait, a
croissant AND also a baguette, sliced, smothered in butter, and a ramekin of
confiture de fraise. Insert before and after picture. Deeeeelicious.
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Gary
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GO SOX!
I am anxiously awaiting the Red Sox blog promised. Everyone will be happy to know that the Red Sox are closing the Gap for the AL East and for all of Major League Baseball. They are only 2.5 games behind the Tampa Bay Rays (formally the Devil Rays) with a lot of baseball left to be played. So much for the "Ray-volution." As predicted, by yours truly, the Rays are collapsing down the stretch and the Red Sox thrive under these conditions. I see a true "Soxtober" coming. Everyone reading should be proud of Jackie at her first Red Sox game at Fenway Park. She did Red Sox Nation and me very proud. Jackie...I hope you are having fun and being safe (you promised). Talk to you soon.