A Day Trip to Beaune

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Thursday 7 July 2016



Warm sunshine greeted us yet again this morning. After breakfast, Neville drove us to Beaune, about a 30 minute drive south from Dijon. The main reason for this trip was to visit the old hospice, the Hotel-Dieu, a palace for the poor. There is now a new hospital in the area but its forebear has never been forgotten.



The words from a booklet, ‘In the Footsteps of the Dukes of Burgundy’ describe it this way….

“With its world-famous, annually held wine auction, the Hotel-Dieu in Beaune is also an amazing charitable institution. Founding it was a remarkably astute political move by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, who bestowed it on the inhabitants of Beaune in 1443. It was intended to provide them with relief in times of war and epidemics, but also help to foster their loyalty to the Duke. After all, these were the people who, in a fit of exasperation, had refused entry to the Duke’s troops at an eventful point in the Hundred Years’ War. The result: a flamboyant edifice with Gothic décor, decked out in colourful glazed tiles, the original main building for the Beaune hospices. The proceeds from the charity auction continue to provide today’s inhabitants of Beaune with outstanding hospital facilities. The ancient rooms are fascinating to visit, triggering memories of that classic French film “La Grande Vadrouille”. The main exhibit: Roger Van der Weyden’s polyptych on the Last Judgement. www.hospices-de-beaune.com





Upon entry, Mabel and Jan had no real idea what to expect. We stepped into the courtyard, audioguide in hand, and stopped still. Breathtaking. That was the only word uttered. The words on the back of the information pamphlet say, “ A unique place where the spirit of the ducal Burgundy radiates!” How true! The style of the building, the patterned glass tiled roof that glowed in the sunlight, the reason behind why this building was here…incredible. The photos tell some of it but don’t capture the atmosphere. What a visionary Nicolas was, his wife, Guigone de Salins, supporting him fully. Both put a lot of themselves into this incredibly wonderful construction; the finest materials were used, ensuring its continued existence for centuries.. It has never failed to maintain its original principles: charity and care have always combined. It remained in operation until 1971. There is now a new hospital following the founding principles. Sobering; yet uplifting.

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Photos

Petite Dejeuner
Each morning, Neville walks to his favourite boulangerie to purchase baguette or loaf...the girls are very grateful!

The Hotel-Dieu
External view

La Salle des Povres
The Great Hall of the Poors; bedding was comfortable, treatment discrete

The nurses entered through the curtain
Discretion was a priority; the dead were taken out along a hall behind the curtain.

The floor tiles
These were designed by Nicolas and Guigone. Their initials are in the centre, the oak tree represents strength

The Roasting Spit
This little fellow helped turn the spit to roast the meat. The kitchen is rather large!

Roger Van der Weyden’s polyptych
The Last Judgement

Comments

[Ken Taylor]

Hi to the travellers
Pat & I were similarly blown away by the vision & kindness offered by Nicolas at the Beaune Hospice - he was ahead of his time.Some of the medical implements were terrifying as to their use.A must see visit.Ken