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Published: January 27th 2009
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There are advantages and disadvantages of traveling to France during the winter. A lot of the tourist attractions are closed or on reduced hours. However you have the chance to share in some real life activities. In January and February almost every village has a community meal that is both a bargain and an opportunity to share in the life of the French. Looking over the Sarlat newspaper you could attend one of these each weekend in a different community. Each community has a Community Center called a
Salle des Fetes.
We were a little intimidated but the owners of the house where we are staying had made reservations for us so we were committed. We could always duck out when no one was looking.
Immediately we were made to feel welcome. We were shown the table that we would share with about a dozen others and then led to the aperitifs. Bottles of port, whiskey and pastis were lined up with plates of nuts, chips and crackers. Interestingly hardly anyone took any of the snacks, but the bottles were busy. People came over to talk to us and they seemed to be aware that we were going to
be attending. An English couple a few houses away took us under their wing and made sure that the introductions were complete.
After about a half an hour we sat at our tables and the repas began. Our glasses were filled up with a choice of a Reisling, a Cahors red or a rose and the bottles left on the table. We were given the choice of oysters on the half shell served with a shallot vinaigrette and black bread or a plate of charcuterie (ham, pate and two kinds of sausage). As was the case throughout the meal, seconds (or thirds) were offered.
This was followed by barbecued crepinettes which were delicious sausages of pork. The serving plate was finally left on the table for us to help ourselves. Every time our glasses were partly emptied someone made sure they were filled.
The main course was slices of roast pork and a cassoulet mixture of white beans and pork rind. The red Cahors wine went well with this.
The cheese course was brie and a goat cheese called Rocamadour. As is the French custom, a simple green salad is served with this course, already dressed
with that light, lovely vinaigrette that, no matter how many times we try, we can't replicate. Chef Dave West of the Rolling Pin in Tampa where we take part in cooking classes, says that the French generally use a ratio of one-to-one oil to vinegar whereas we North Americans are used to a ratio of three-to-one oil to vinegar. In any case, it is simple and wonderful. The Cahors continued to hold its own with these cheeses.
The dessert table held huge bowls of rice pudding made with a dark rich cream, chocolate mousse, cakes and fruit tartes of many different varieties. While I held myself to two choices, one of our table companions finally brought the chocolate mousse bowl back to our table and did a good job of scraping it clean.
Coffee followed. Another custom I have become used to is having coffee after the meal rather than served with the dessert. I suspect that this is done at home in restaurants to more quickly turn the table. The price of this wonderful experience was €15.
We had been warned that we would be called on to perform - a joke, a story, a song.
I was ready with my magic tricks but my children will be relieved to hear that it never happened.
There was music throughout the meal and people got up and danced at various times. How can they possibly whirl around so quickly, which is the French way of dancing dance ... and with all that wine. Sandra did join a Conga line at one point. The conversation was lively and animated. People moved from table to table to talk with others. When we left we realized we had been there for four hours. What a wonderful time! Highly recommended.
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Ernie
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Bob, I can certainly understand your initial hesitation about attending, but this sounds delightful. So does this: "Every time our glasses were partly emptied someone made sure they were filled." Keep it coming, please; I'm enjoying your trip.