Escaping to Estonia

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Hello, hello,

Where to begin with Estonia... I cannot possibly ever explain this country. It is filled with the more wonderful people I have ever come across...

So, John and I decided to hop a ferry and check out the small Baltic country after our long train escapades. We arrived in the main city and were marvelled with the charm and quaint beauty of the old town. After a few days and searching out each little nook and cranny, we were ready to move on. We had a choice, east to the national Park or west to the beaches. Well, having been penned up on a train for what seemed like a lifetime, we opted for the national park and loads of hiking and camping.

So, first we were off to the local shop to find a tent and sleeping bag. We figured that if we used it enough, it would save us on hostels in the end... and it would allow us to start hitchhiking, as there is no bus service of any sort in the national park. After some stressful purchases (the time pressure and strain had us acquire a one man tent... thinking we could squish together since it was half the price... yeah, no comments on that one... we regret it EVERY night!) we actually can't both lay side by side! So, after some twister-like poses we manage to "fit" each time... of course, sometimes it's better that we are so close as we also opted for the reasonably priced sleeping bags (meaning, of course, that they go to +6 degrees).... did I mention we were heading north ;0)

At any rate, we acquired our gear and made our way to the street to hitch, being caught immediately in a strong downpour, we fled to the nearest gas station where we cowered from the rain trying to plot out our next move. Meanwhile, a fellow pulled up, seeing the Canadian flag on my bag and started chatting away. He kept apologizing over and over for not being able to take us as he lived only a short distance and was on his way home. We kept saying it was fine, and finally said goodbye. A few short minutes later, he pulled up again and started explaining that we simply couldn't stay there. It was a Sunday evening and he was sure we would have no luck with a ride out of the city and that there was more rain to come. He pleaded that we come with him to his house and set up our tent in the backyard for the night. He insisted he would drive us back to the same spot the following morning so that we could continue on our way when the skies were clearer and there was more traffic.

Well, John and I are not ones to refuse such an opportunity, so we jumped in and started along the way... of course, this offer of a tent in the yard immediately became him calling his neighbours to fire up the sauna (oh yes, the full Estonian sauna experience, beer and all) and a full dinner even though they had already dinned and did not eat with us. They pulled out the reserve wine and ushered us into their daughter (now gone to university)'s room for the night. The following morning we were met with traditional pancakes, home-made jam and fresh cream... then after a long description and some research into the areas we were considering, they drove us to a better location for hitching (the local truck stop) and we were on our way. What an introduction to Estonia.

From there, John and I found rides fairly easily and made our way to the forest. Hiking, camping, and hiding from the rain. We found a shelter near one of the manors and set up there for a few days fearing out tent might not handle the constant drizzle... of course, this meant we were also filled with fear of being discovered and found ourselves running from the lawnmowers of the gardeners early, early morning... I cannot tell you the sheer horror and instinctive fear a tractor now gives me...

Unfortunately the rain was not letting up, so we finally rolled up our sleeves and made our way to a nearby hotel that rented bikes... there was a few hours of clear skies so we went as hard as we could, aiming for the other side of the island. The glitch - my tire had a sizable hole in it and I had no repair kit, only a pump. So, we would ride, ride, ride, pull over while I pumped it up, jump back on and repeat the process.... that was until the nozzle jammed itself into the tube and even our pliers couldn't save us. We had gone about 25 km and the rain was really picking up. We painfully struggled on a bit further, but it was a bad situation, getting worse and the rain was continuously picking up. Considerations pooled, we split up and John went back as fast as he could to try to get help form the hotel (at this point I could only push the bike) and we figured we would stay along the same road and meet up in a few hours. I went on like this for more than an hour, when I started shivering to a dangerous point... now I was in shorts and a cycling jacket... but I had a raincoat in my pack. My reasoning had been if I could keep warm from the physical workout, I could save the raincoat for when I got back and dry, because we were still camping. Unfortunately, that theory was overridden by necessity. So, I tossed by bike to the ground, stripped off the wet and wrapped myself in the rain jacket. I was a bit surprised to see a van wind the corner so I must have had the "deer-stuck-in-headlights" look, as my bike was on the ground, tire still spinning and I was standing there. So, the truck pulled over and an old man started shouting out of his window.... I tried to say English, but he had not a word, and I not a word of Estonian. Finally, after he kept going on and I kept gesturing, I went to the bike and squeezed the tire, then showed him where on the map I was going. In a flash, he whipped a U-turn and the other man from the van threw the bike in the back and hustled me into the van. Immediately after he pointed to the temperature gage in his van and gave me a crazy and confused look, then offered me some chocolate (I know, I know, the first two things you learn as a child; don't take candy from strangers and don't get in a van with strange men!) So, I was a little on the apprehensive side and I stayed near the door, clutching the handle in case I had to roll out and run for it. I was almost ready to exercise this plan when they pulled into a dodgy unknown street and screeched the van to a ha ult. He jumped out ran over and said and urgent sentence to my deaf ears. He repeated and I remained wide-eyed and blank-faced deciding when I would need to bolt. He then slammed the door back in my face and I sat there bewildered as he disappeared into a house. A few short seconds later, a small girl came running out and said in an angelic voice as she opened the door "Hello. My name is Angela. Please come inside we have coffee and tea ready for you."

I ran after her into the house, and of course, there was a whole gawking family waiting for my arrival. The grandmother immediately squealed as she saw my bare legs and ran over and started rubbing them down as I blushed and gazed on in shock. She then started pulling off my shoes and socks (to my protest) and ran to her room. She reemerged with wool socks, great big pants and the most classically Estonian sweater (grandma style) I have ever seen. It was bright purple, clearly hand knitted, with not much form and huge cold circular buttons. I was bundled and fed in no time and which point we sorted out (through the girl) that I had to be back to the hotel to meet John who was now still on his way for help... we called the hotel and by chance as I was explaining the message (what could I say - John, don"t worry I am with an Estonian family and will be there shortly...!) when he arrived and the receptionist handed to phone to him. I relayed the message and we were back on our way, but I had no chance to decline the gifts... I arrived, by belly full, in the Estonian wool outfit they had given me, with a jar of fresh honey (it turns out the man was a bee farmer!) and the biggest smile on my face. I still have that sweater, and believe me, I love that purple ball of wool every time we are shivering off in the woods.

The amazing thing is we were only in Estonia for a week or two and I actually have more stories like the ones above, the man who did a u-turn to drive us where we were hitchhiking, the fellow who called and cancelled work as he was only going to drive us half way to the ferries... and then couldn't put us out on the street again... it still boggles my mind the plain and overt kindness we encountered in this country.

And so, Estonia will be forever close to my heart...

Trish xxx

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Photos

Why?
Because I can!

Estonia!
The beautiful old town!

John!
Wandering around with our sizable packs!

Another view
Gotta love the blue sky!

This was the view everywhere
... such beauty!

Check out the boat
... it just made me want to take it out there!

Me!
On top of the tower!

Now we're talking
... great way to see the coast!

I could stay here forever!
Really!

John...
looking cool

chillin on a rock
John taking it all in

Even better!
okay - it was actaully a bit scarry, the wind was strong!

Clarity!
You are leaveing the city.

... more clarity
you are entering a city! This is what I liked when my bike was a mess and I was trudging through the rain!