First steps: overnight train from London to Copenhagen

---

NB *this entry is rather late I'm already a month into my trip as I'm writing this! Although I've kept a day-to-day journal time on computers has been scarce on the road, I just haven't really had the time to post anything yet, sorry! So here is the belated first entry, I will try and be more punctual with it in future!*

So, my journey begins... I enter the echoing bustle of St. Pancras International and queue up to check in for the 14.05 to Brussels. Somewhat irritatingly I have my camping knife confiscated at the check-in. It was a going-away present from a friend and I thought it might come in handy in Siberia, but I always forget that they have airport style security and pass-port control on this train journey. After packing my bag so meticulously and efficiently, it was distressing to see it grotesquely violated and dissected on the security counter for all to see, while they frisked me for illegal substances...nevermind, at least I allowed plenty of time to check-in.

An hour later The Eurostar pulls out of London St. Pancras and swoops across the pretty green landscape of Kent and under the channel tunnel. Two hours later (at 17.05 local time) it arrives at Brussels midi, and I have a couple of hours to kill before catching the train to Cologne. The first thing I discover on walking out of the station is a rather good samba band busking in the street, with accordian, clarinet and brass section. I watched them for ten minutes, and enjoyed their rendition of the mamba classic 'Sway,' before deciding to move on in search of food. Eating out and good food is big part of Belgian culture, but I couldn't seem to find much in the depressing center of Brussels. Encumbered with heavy bags and with time ticking away before my next train, I didn't feel like walking far. I settled for an trashy fast-food joint, where I had an unbelievably awful pizza. Seriously, it was one of the worst things I've ever eaten and made me wonder weather I'd be entertaining the other passengers on the night train with vomiting and diarrhoea all the way to Copenhagen. I lumbered back to the station feeling rather queasy, and discovered to my consternation that there way a delicious and wholesome smelling wok eatery at the station, which was about half the price of vile pizza joint. There were lots of places to eat at the station, but I hadn't bothered with them as I'd assumed they'd be too expensive.

So, on to Cologne and a one hour stop there. This was just enough time to stop off for supplies and have a look around. The station had a cute little garden in the centre of it, with a rockery and living shrubs and flowers. They even had a little herb garden so I was able to steal some fresh basil leaves to go with my sandwiches. It's worth stepping outside the station to see the gargantuan Cologne Cathedral. It's one of the largest Cathedrals in the world, 144 metres long, 86 metres wide and it's two main spires reach 157 metres into the sky. It's a magnificent site, and I can hardly believe that it came to sit in squalid concrete plaza with a shopping mall and busy central train station right next to it. Still, it makes it convenient for the passing train traveler to gawp at.

After Cologne I boarded my final connection, the night train to Copenhagen, which It was the comfiest sleeper train I've ever taken. Hardly anyone seemed to be travelling, and I had a three-berth compartment for myself and my clutter. The beds were soft, the compartment wonderfully well designed and laid-out, everything was so neat and efficient and German, and, uniquely among trains I've taken, breakfast was included in the ticket price. I switched off the lights, laid down on the bunk, and, deeply contented, watched the dark landscape and occasional city lights go rushing past the window until I fell asleep.

I woke up to a snowy landscape outside as we approached Scandinavia, which was still in the grip of winter. I leapt out bed like an excited child whose woken up to snow on Christmas day, and eagerly watched the unfamiliar Danish landscape slide past. I gathered up my bags as we approached Copenhagen, and staggered out into the central station. I had booked myself into a hostel with the charming name 'Sleep in Heaven,' I had an address for it an a vague idea of which direction it lay in, but no map. I had assumed there would be one at the central station, but if there was I couldn't find it. I wandered out into the wind blowing snow in my face, and wondered where on earth I was going. Cursing my stupidity for not having printed off a map before I left, I picked a likely looking direction and set off. After a few false starts, I eventually found a city map by a large square and managed to navigate myself to the hostel. The hostel was friendly and helpful, but somewhat marred by the large amount of construction work they were having done, which closed off their kitchen and web cafe while I was staying there. I checked in, dumped my backpack and set off to explore.

I only had one day to spare in Copenhagen, so I didn't have time to waste. I did a quick tour around the city center (which seemed much smaller now I wasn't lugging an enormous rucksack with me) and headed to the navel museum. Denmark has always been a great seafaring nation and the museum had a wealth of information. It showed everything from the techniques of medieval ship-builders to a reconstruction of the interior of WWII submarine. It also had an engaging section on the history of pirates, with sections on the Barbary Corsairs of the 16th Century, to the real pirates of the Carribean, the modern myth of the pirate as fueled by books such as 'Treasure Island' and the present-day speedboat and assault-rifle equipped Somalians.

Just behind the Naval Museum was what I was really excited about seeing in Copenhagen, Freetown Christiania. This is a somewhat unique settlement near the center of Copenhagen, occupying parts of the old city ramparts and docks. The site was formerly occupied by a military base, which was disused by the end of 60s. In 1971 local residents broke down the fence blocking off the old bases, and opened up the site. Originally they intended to turn it into a playground for their children, but as affordable housing was difficult to come by at that time, it soon became squatted permanently. The new residents quickly became organised, uniting in an endeavour to build up a new society from scratch. in a typically Scandinavian show of tolerance and open-mindedness, the Government at the time simply let these settlers get on and run this corner of the city as they wished. Today the old military buildings are mainly occupied by bars, cafes, theaters, studios, music venues and other cultural centers. There are 850 residents, most of whom live along the old ramparts and waterfront, in fascinating home-made houses consructed from recycled or exotic materials. It is an enchanting place, and many of the DIY houses are beautiful to look at. However, while it's open to the public, no camera are allowed, so I can't post an photos up here. Go and see it for yourself!

Copenhagen is very much a water-bound city, with numerous canals and bridges crossing it, as the docks merge into the sea. I walked along the canal path out of Christiania and towards my last stopping point, the Little Mermaid. This unassuming statue of a fairy-tale character is the symbol of Copenhagen. It was built in 1903, as a tribute to one of Denmark's most famous children, Hans Christian Andersen, the children's author of the 1800's who wrote the original 'Little Mermaid' and many other famous fairy-tales which remain much-loved today. I took a ferry across the channel which divided Copenhagen and links it to the sea, and which would have offered a great view if it wasn't snowing. I had a wander around the sea-front and park by the Little Mermaid statue, and returned with aching feat to my hostel. I got an early night and the boarded the first train to Stockholm the next morning. More to follow...

Trains I took:

Eurostar, London St. Pancras to Brussels

Thalys, Brussels to Cologne

Citynightline, Cologne to Copenhagen

booked through www.raileurope.co.uk

Places I went:

Royal Danish Naval Museum, 58 Overgaden Oven Vandet, Copenhagen, www.orlogsmuseet.dk

Sleep in Heaven, 7 Struensgade, Copenhagen, www.sleepinheaven.com

Friendly independent hostel near the center of Copenhagen

Free Town Christiania, www.christiania.org

independent community occupying it's own unique place in Copenhagen

---