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Published: November 25th 2011
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I board a Cross Air flight in Zurich for my final destination, Copenhagen. It is a short flight, so I am not expecting epiphany. The crew is lined up and seems to harbor a secret by their smiles. Well the secret was wide bodied leather seats with a doily for your head to rest and what they said would be a "snack". The snack turned out to be smoked salmon, cucumber salad, a decent roll, Hagen-Daz ice cream and that great coffee you are served all over Scandinavia. Oh and champagne as well, gratis. All served with real china and silverware.
Surprisingly I am not too jet lagged, must have been the alcohol (since I’ve had some I seemed to rally.) On our first night we walk about 1 mile into town, Tivoli Gardens area. And then one mile back. It was a gray day and Copenhagen didn’t glitter. Dinner in the center of town was needed. I suddenly feel like I’ve had no sleep in 2 days (and I hadn’t). A friend said, "let’s try this place". Exhausted, I said, "fine". Well at least I had a classic Danish dinner: Danish frikadeller (meatballs) served in a brown sauce with
small new potatoes and fresh beets. A walk was needed. We stumbled onto the Stroget, the massive pedestrian shopping street with wall-to-wall shops. Too much, too soon, we cab it back to the hotel.
The next day the professionals took over. What a difference. On a sunny day, we were bussed throughout the city. Alas, Dutch Elm disease has claimed over 4000 trees, all had to be chopped down. Denmark is actually over 400 islands. The largest being Sealand. There are one and a half million people in greater Denmark. Unique to the city are bicyclists who have their own lanes on both sides of the street, separated by their own curbs. God forbid you step in their way.
Off to Christianborg Castle (Kings are always named Christian or Frederick). Danish royalty went on to become rulers of England and Russia. The palace itself has been rebuilt five times due to fire (not too smart to make wooden pipes to heat the rooms). There’s the Alexander the Great of Rome room, library, reception hall and "audience to the Queen" room. Any Dane can make an appointment to see the Queen about any matter. The Queen monarch is Margaret,
much beloved. Her son, Frederick, will inherit and become Frederick X. The room has marked lined floors so you may gracefully exit by walking in reverse, as you can never turn your back on the Queen.
Off to the harbor for the most photographed woman in the world: The Little Mermaid" (sorry Nicki, Naomi & Elle). The statue is based on a story by Hans Christian Anderson, and tells about a mermaid who wants legs to marry the prince. She goes through great pains to get her legs and when she does get them, the prince has already married someone else. Typical.
Copenhagen glittered today. The canalled streets were lined with shops and cafes. The Stroget beckoned. Who can resist buying something at Royal Copenhagen or Georg Jensen silversmiths. The Stroget is packed during the day with tourists as well as Danes. The Danes, by the way, are all stunning and blond (mostly). And with perfect bodies (must be all that bicycling and they do frequent the health clubs but don’t look like they need to work out). You can easily get an inferiority complex here if you dwell on all the Danish gods & goddesses. I walked
into a health club and walked right out. I felt I looked like a squirrel by comparison. But everyone is well scrubbed, groomed, Nordic – just like their city!
The afternoon held the New Zealand Castle Tour. Kronberg Castle (Hamlet Castle) in Helsinor, Fredenstorg Palace, and the magnificent Fredericksborg Castle, the 200 room former royal residence. The enclosed church and the reception hall with its gold chandeliers and bas relief ceiling are nothing short of magnificent. And don’t forget to see the actual smaller Queen’s residences in central Copenhagen.
The evening on this busy day brought us to Tivoli Gardens, a maze of 30 restaurants and old-fashioned rides, in the heart of Copenhagen. Deciding on just one place to eat is sure to evoke controversy. There are luxury dining places but most are casual old-fashioned places Danes love that remind them of their childhood.
Things to know about the Danes: they are 95% Lutheran but most are not particularly religious, They go to church three times in their lifetime: to be born, married, and to die! There are 5 million Danes and one and a half million live in the greater Copenhagen area. They are used to
The Stroget
World class shopping without the automobiles (and bicycles). being taxed: 75% income tax, 200% automobile tax (buy one car, but you pay for three). Only 60 percent of Danes can afford a car, but everyone can afford a bicycle. The Danes are parsimonious about the space they need to live. Everything is small and downsized. They like to own their apartments, not rent them. And don’t forget they are all beautiful.
We are now on our 385 mile (620 km) trek and eventually board a ferry at Helsinor to the Swedish coast to Gothenberg, Sweden, a suburban-like "city" where the residents are even more blond!
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