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Published: September 27th 2007
As I was riding my bike around København today, I cyckled through an intersection where 2 jugglers were standing in the crosswalk, entertaining the cars and bikes stopped at the red light. København at it's finest.
There's something in the fresh, nordic air that blows over the sea and into this port town which I can only seem to describe in Danish -
hygge. A warm, cozy, comfortable, happy disposition.
This city was made for bicycles. Everyone has one! They come with big baskets, baby carriages, or even a spacious cart. The Christiania bicycle is a classic seen on the streets. A native of "steden", an autonomously declared free-land neighborhood, but you see them all over town. I am lucky enough to have a bicycle in København, and it is perfect transportation. On the major roads there are bike lanes going each way, and the stoplights are accompanied by smaller, bike stop lights. This developed infrastructure makes København a very easy city to get around, but beware, because bicyclists have a mind of their own. They can find the smallest gap in traffic and glue themselves into it. I have averted danger thus far, hopefully I continue to do so
😊
The exercise is fantastic, especially given how rich and delicious my meals have been. The Danes like their meat, potatoes, and gravy. And, the best thing about a town with such a fluid transportation system (their train, bus and metro systems are quick, easy, safe and comfy, and it really doesn't take more than 20 minutes to get around town, 30 max) is that you see people. They're out and about. Everywhere!! Need to get food, jump on your bike, ride to the nearest neighborhood "Netto", your basket can hold your groceries. Banks, stores, restaurants, clothes, books, everything. They arn't bundled up in a giant Walmart or Super Target. Not that those don't exist here in their own right, but it's new, and certainly no in the city center.
This city is great for people-watching. I could do it for hours. Something I've noticed is how the Dane's love legs!! It gets cold here, northern winds blowing from the artic, and the ladies are wearing skirts, heels, miniskirts with leggings, boots, leg warmers, shorts with leggings, flats, tight jeans, leggings with longer sweaters, legs, legs, legs! I love Danish boots. I'm trying to restrain myself, but
I might have to break down and by some 😊
Wednesday, September 19th Today Elisabeth (one of my mum's closest friends, and mother of our family friends, the Holmberg's) and I did one of our favorite things to do in København ... Art and Tea!
Rundetaarn, or The Round Tower, was built in 1637, as part of The Trinitatis Complex", which hosed astronomical observation and the University's library and church.
Now, the old library hosts various art exhibitions, such as "New Africa", the world's 1st exhibition on cutting edge African design. New African design is Haute Couture, jewelery, graphics, ceramics, furniture and industrial design - combining the hottest designs with traditional handicraft and visions of building a new and better Africa.
Everything was so vibrant, colorful, modern designs with African fabrics, weavings and woodwork.
There were designers from Ghana, Zimbabwe, Tanzania and South Africa to name a few, and some of the designers had moved to Danmark and worked with Danish design.
After the exhibition, we climbed to the top of Rundetaarn, to the old astrological observation viewpoint.
You can see the whole city from up there. Rosenborg Castle, the University of København's Botanical Gardens, Amelienborg the
queens palace, Rådhuset (city hall), Tivoli. One of my favorite views from the top of Rundetaarn are the line of windmills all along the sea.
The rooftops are picturesque. Afterwards, we discovered Ukendte Boghandler (The Unknown Bookstore). The coolest bookstore in the world, and for those of you who know me, know me to not read many books. It also had music, jewelery, stones and gifts. I found an awesome book about yoga, which I'm excited to read 😊
Finally, we enjoyed a cup of tea and a salmon, shrimp and avocado salad in the cafe on the top floor of Illum, where you can get a closer view of those picturesque rooftops.
Saturday, September 22nd The sun has come out over København!! THe vanilla sky is brightening the city, what a beautiful place. I'm sitting in Gråbrødretorv square, which is lined by red, pink, yellow, green, brick and stone buildings, in the center stands a magnificent tree, there are tables and chairs scattered about the square belonging to one of at least 6 restaurants and faces. I ... was enjoying a glass of wine until I made a new winged friend who was swimming in
my wine. Actually, you're right, I kept on enjoying my wine afterwards 😊
Did I just hear guitar music?? This place is so wonderfully Danish, and yet so international as well. The restaurants are French and Italian, I hear British accents behind me, and I see so many different faces!! One of the restaurants is quite Danish though - Bøf og Ost (Meat and Cheese) ... 2 of Danmarks favorite foods.
Oh, that guitar?? It's jazz. Sexy, sultry, jazz music is creeping into square. You know how I said before that people are out and about in this city? When the sun is shining, everyone comes out. But the amazing thing is, that the city never feels too crowded. Traffic isn't bad, people make space on the sidewalks and rarely is there long waits. Today I've seen dozens of baby carriages, with big wheels meant for heavy-duty 4-wheeling, in the city, around the søen (lakes).
Everything here works together Tuesday, September 26th I just had one of the most interesting conversations of my life. It was a talk about music, culture, media, politics and cars between a Dane, a Norwegian, an Islander, and me. All of us spoke our
respective languages, and our conversation was English mixed with some Danish (Norwegian and Icelandic are pretty crazy languages 😊 )
There we were, just hanging out, listening to music and telling some cool stories from around the world.
Like, the tradition in Norway, 1 month before students finish their last year at high school. They buy old cars and paint them their school colors, and then they all drive around town and egg, t.p. and flour the rival schools cars.
And then, they party.
For a month. This partying tradition isn't so foreign for the nordic folk. I've heard stories of teenagers partying before, during and after school hours during their last few weeks of the student life, from many different countries.
Our conversation turned political when the Islander brought up how during a trip to the States, he noticed America's obsession with pharmacutical drugs. Rows and rows of them!! It's interesting to talk to foreigners about America, because normally people are very nice and understanding, easy to talk to, but our shared sense of disapointment in America's shortcomings are apparent. They are most suprised at that alot of the Americans that they have met seem to have the same
Rundetårn exhibit "New Africa"
The world's first exhibition on cutting edge African Designopinions, upset with the current administration, but nothing ever changes ... maerkligt, ik?? Jo, det er.
Of course, those Americans who travel are probably those who have an open mind, and are hoping to see the many great things that can be gained through peace and the understand of other cultures, not like those who are running our country. I am glad to hear that our "underground" culture is being seen and heard around the world. Those @holes in office can't silence us!!
The Danish "Underground" culture is heard loudly and clearly throughout Koebenhavn. Over the last few years, the city has been buzzing with a liberal response to the conservative leaders. Angry about their participation in Iraq (who isn't?), the arabic response to the Danish comics in 2005 (the Danes have a sarcastic, blunt sense of humor, but are the sweetest, kindest culture I know!) and other conservative changes in their government, they are making sure to fight for what they believe in. This is clearly seen in Christania, of "The free state", a neighborhood established in the 1960's by hippees in some old navy barracks. They wern't being used, so they were commandered as the free peoples land,
independent of DK and their laws. Through the years, Christania developed a free-spirited, peace-loving culture, unique to their land. And yes, drugs play a part of it - but they don't support the use of hard drugs!!
The conservatives have been trying to put an end to Christania for years, and have provoked a movement reaching far beyond Christiania's borders - "BEVAR CHRISTANIA!!" (Save Christania!) Locals and supporters resist police infiltration. They are protecting the people's voice, their freedoms, the spirit of equality and acceptance. Christania is home to cafes, bars, and an international market with jewelery, clothes and tourist souviners.
This spirit spilled out to the streets earlier this year when the police stormed "Ungdoms huset", the young-peoples house, which provided free housing to youth by not paying rent or taxes. The youth took it too far, and destroyed nearby stores, cars and bicycles.
And, around town there is graffiti, voicing the underground voice. I think its great that their society lets everyone speak. They are a social democracy, with more than 7 parties of varing platforms on the political scale. Different parties work together to elect candidates, so that the majority of people can be represented by the
government. And, the government lets their people SPEAK!! Plus, some of the graffitti is expressive art.
I spent my time in Koebenhavn freely. I hate feeling rushed or panicked when I travel, and DK has such a calm, free spirit, that its easy to just walk outside and find yourself hours later on the other side of town. I followed my senses all over that town. Traveling on a limited budget, I try not to spend too much money. But, I am very keen to what is happening around me. Like the Bikes!!! Street performers and muscians, schoolchildren playing in Rosenborg Castle's gardens, keeping my eye open for some delicious vinerbroed (American's may call them "Danish's", but I hate the implication of cannibalism) (Oh, and to my danish friends, BroedKunsten paa Jagtvej er sindsyg laekkert), windowshopping on Stroeget, the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe.
I must admit that I couldn't resist Danish design, and my window shopping turned into an expensive pair of jeans 😊 In my defense, it was cold!!! And, being that I packed mainly for Africa, I needed those jeans to keep warm.
I biked all around that town, with skirts, legwarmers, and my old
pair of boots that I had forgotten in DK last time I was there.
One evening, Andreas and I went out to Blaagaards Apoteket for some live jazz music and beers. Koebenhavn has quite a music scene, from sexy jazz to tripp techno, hilarious pop music (Nik og Jay, who were performing in Tivoli while I was there!! Unfortnately, I didn't make it ...) to gangsta rap, even corny folk songs (yes, that means Shu-bi-dua). They also have a big American music influence which is a few weeks behind our scene stateside, so I was hearing songs from the summer being overplayed. I swear, one of teh funniest and perhaps most satisfying things to hear is a Scandinavian sing or rap to an American hip hop song. I have struggled learning Danish for years now, and I am constantaly corrected in my pronounciation. So, you can imagine my glee when I hear my friends butchering American slang in musical form. I think they enjoy it too 😊
I must also tell about the musical movement behind "Bevar Christania". There are a number of danish muscians who have joine the fight to save Christania, and they have produced a few CD's
with songs to spread their message - Don't close the Free Town!!
Danish music is so hilarious, I can't help but laugh when I listen to it. They take famous American tunes and splice them together with Danish jargon which I normally don't understand, but it sounds funny, and my Danish friends laugh along.
The next day I had lunch and tea with my cousin Sarah and her cat Mogens. She has lived in Koebenhav her whole life, and she showed me around her neighborhood. It's hard being so far away from your family. When we get the chance to see eachother, we need to recap about everything!! Boyfriends, school, music, partying, ideology, food. It's almost like a blind date in that we ask so many questions, but our conversation was closely linked to our family ties. We had a great time together!! And her cat Mogens is ADORABLE! 😊
The next day, I traveled to Ishoej to meet with Elisabeth and we went to Arken, a modern art museum. The exhibition was called Mad Love, and it was a collection of artist's private collections, celebrating individuality in society. A rather morbid exhibit, it wasn't afrait to address racy topics
Cycling
Hej Andreas! such as death, disease, hunger, and even dictators such as Stalin and Hitler, and even the Devil!! The Dane's don't seem to be weary of addressing any scandelous topic. Its all about their voice. We all know that these opinions exist, they just allow them to be expressed.
That evening, I had a wonderful dinner with my danish siblings, Henriette and Andreas, at a nearby cafe. Again, cool music, art, delicious food and great company 😊
And, for those of you who may be wondering what I did during the rest of my time in DK, I must admit - I watched alot of TV. Heros, NipTuck, The Simpsons, and tons of movies. I am addicted to Heros. Funny, that I am more exposed to American TV while in DK. Maybe its more at my pace here 😊
Leaving DK sucked. It always does. A part of my heart is here, I feel comfortable, real here. Its a beautiful country with a fun, accepting, peaceful society, and I'd suggest to anyone looking to travel to check out
Vidunderlig København
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Susanne Huntley
non-member comment
My Birth Place
Dear Kirsten, I am glad you are enjoying your stay in my birth/home town Copenhagen. I have always enjoyed returning to visit her. There is a invisible draw string that always pulls me back, as it does to you. You and Ingrid used to travel to Copenhagen (20km) with boernehaven from Karlslunde at least once a month to se all the sights in town. When you were 3 years old you could find most of the attractions you mentioned in Copenhagen. Thank you Ulla, Kirsten og Mogens from Boernehaven. Love you Your mother