Sculptural Wanderings

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The rain may have stopped but the wind sure has picked up! In many respects, the weather the past couple of days has been preparation for, I imagine, my upcoming travels in the Faroe Islands and perhaps Iceland.

Over the past couple of days, it seems I have largely focused on the sculptural heritage of Copenhagen, both indoors and outdoors. In the late afternoon/early evening of the 7th, I took a long walk along the canal, passing Amalienborg Palace again so that I could take a peek into the grand Marble Church (closed when I was last in the area). Organ music reverberated through the immense interior, bouncing off the neo-classical statuary. Continuing up the canal, I stumbled on the Gefion Fountain, which apparently depicts a Goddess ploughing the island of Zealand (on which Copenhagen is found) with her four sons. Not far away is perhaps the most overrated site in all of Copenhagen, the Little Mermaid statue -- but the poor thing was being molested by several drunk British lads (including one in a thong and Santa mask -- I didn't ask).

I sought refuge in the beautiful grounds of Kastellet, an old fortress complete with earthern ramparts, which still houses barracks. I was intrigued by a wedding that was going on in the Kastellet Church, one complete with military guard. (On the Danish news that evening, I heard that the 7th was a big day for weddings, as the date was 07/07/07. But I didn't find out what couple had tied the knot in Kastellet.)

The next day, I went to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, one of the premier museums in the city. Founded by the brewery magnate of Carlsberg Beer fame, the collection encompasses an odd mix of ancient Mediterranean pieces (Egypt, Greece, and Rome) along with 19th/early 20th century Danish and French art (mostly sculpture). I found myself drawn to the sensuous, luminous white marble sculptures in the Danish gallery. Sindig's Adoratio was particularly compelling, innocent and beautiful.

Nearby is another sculpture focused museum, this one purpose built for a specific artist. One of the major joys of traveling is learning something new. I discovered on this day that Copenhagen produced one of the most prolific and well-respected neo-classical sculptors of the late 17th/early 18th century, Bertel Thorvaldsen. He was one of those early trans-national types I am particularly fascinated by. Born to an Icelandic father and Danish mother in Copenhagen; moved to Rome for most of his adult life, only returning to Copenhagen for his final six years. His sculptures, even the most grand, have a remarkable gentleness about them. Some of his work adorns, I think, the Marble Church, where I began my sculptural wanderings.

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Comments

[Lisa]

Itinerary
Hi James- I'm really enjoying your blog and just wondered if you have a few extra minutes and could post your entire itinerary in your next entry, so we can follow along? Having just returned from vacation myself, I really appreciate your taking the time to share your experiences when they are still very fresh. I trust you will continue enjoying the experience to the fullest. Lisa

[nancy]

huh?
What is that lesion on the drunk British guy's butt? Honestly James, the moments you capture some times!