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Friday 23rd May 2014 Woke up to a fine day, no wind, and left Slavonice just after 0830. The first section was a bit of a slope, for about 3kms before flattening out, then going downhill. This pattern seemed to repeat itself all morning although Judy was finding it a little difficult. She used the electric motor a little more than Rags to compensate, he saved his battery in case hers ran out.
An early morning tea at Rancirov, about 10kms out, was had, as we were both a little hungry. The roads we travelled on were narrow but mainly good, with very little traffic. We were travelling mainly through fields of barley and canola, with the occasional patch of forrest. We kept our eyes open for deer as there were warning signs for motorists, unfortunately we didn't see any.
What we did see were abandoned bunkers dotted along the way and it finally clicked that we were now very close to the Austrian border. These would have been manned in earlier times either during WW2 or whilst the Czechs were under communism. Now, many of them have another shelter built on top of them resembling
Bunker
This bunker had a deer shooter's hide built on top.They look like outhouses!an old outhouse, these are used as hides for farmers to use to shoot deer when the crops are more advanced.
Lunch was on a park bench in the town of Satov, just 10kms out of our destination of Vranov nad Dygi. It was a little early but we didn't want to reach our destination before lunch.
As it was, this would not have been a problem. Rags mentioned when he booked the Jelen Penzion for 2 nights through Bookings.com, that it had been recommended by their recent guests, Kev & Jan. They therefore upgraded us to a 2 bedroom plus kitchen apartment fitted with microwave and coffee filter, with views across to the Statni Zamek castle, which seems to be the highlight of this area. Jana, the owner was very welcoming and provided us with maps and information.
After unpacking we walked back up the steep hill we had come in on, to the castle, just in time for the 1400 conducted tour. This was in Czech but we were given explanatory notes, and we were joined by a group of about twenty 13yo students and their teacher. They were very well behaved however and the
Vranov nad Dyji
From the Chateau. time went quickly.
Back in town we found a supermarket, after some difficulty, as those we asked said there wasn't one. Must have been the way Rags asked! We picked up some yoghurt for breakfast to go with the croissants provided and the coffee Rags is looking forward to.
We had asked Jana where to go for a meal and she indicated there were 3 restaurants, but not to go to the “boat” one. On our way back from the shop we felt we deserved a drink, the first had no cider, the second no-one came to serve, so we went to the “boat” one and although there was no cider Judy discovered they had Radler's, which is a lemon beer she enjoyed in Rumania. Only reason we could see that was different here was that the owners seemed to be gay. Didn't bother us!
There were clouds coming across the sky and a while after we returned to our apartment there was thunder and the rain started. It was forecast so we have been lucky up to now, just as well we have booked in for 2 nights. Judy is marking assignments so the weather shouldn't
The Chateau
This Baroque chateau is built on a steep rocky headland above the Dyje River. It is visible from almost every corner of the town. worry us too much.
Dinner at the Zamecky Hotel was very quiet even though there were plenty of other tables filled. We didn't hear an English word spoken and as we were tired so didn't try to make conversation. The meal was ok, a good garlic and cheese soup was had by both, Judy then having curried chicken, Rags spiced pork. It's all a bit of a lottery as we usually don't know what we are ordering until they are put in front of us!
When the rain stopped after our dinner we were quite happy to return and just do a few things before sleeping.
Saturday 24th May 2013 Beautiful blue skies greeted us this morning and over breakfast we made the decision to stay here an extra night to the two we have already booked and not leave until Monday. This will still give us plenty of time to get to Valtice by Friday, the bikes being picked up on Saturday morning.
The Vranov Dam just a few kilometres away, was built between 1930 – 1934 and is 60 metres high with a 30km lake behind it. The water
Vranov Dam
Looking back to the suspension bridge. is used for powering a hydro-electic station as well as being an attractive setting for holiday cabins and resorts. Getting there is relatively easy, just follow the brown signs and the directions given by our landlady. We walked in the opposite direction! After walking a kilometre or so through a lovely section of town and river we turned back and took the right path.
From the township out to the dam the road rises steeply and this continues for about 2kms to the dam itself. On realising that this was the way we would be going when we left town on our bikes, Judy had great misgivings. It shouldn't be too much of a problem in Rags' opinion, just low gear and full motor boost!
Lovely views greeted us across the dam and on reaching the other side we booked a 1 hour cruise, leaving in half an hour. Rags nearly fell over when Judy suggested we have a coffee whilst waiting, realising it was just a ploy for her to use their conveniences! As it was nearly midday Rags had a pint of ale instead, this tastier and cheaper than the cup of cappucino Judy had.
Vranov dam
These holiday "shacks" lined the water. The cruise was the highlight of the day, Rags realising that it was an electric powered boat as it moved out. There was no vibration or smell associated with diesel powered boats and it moved along very quietly. Surely they could do something like this on our catchment dams near Perth?
The edge of the lake was dotted with weekenders, most of which were unoccupied but it would probably be bustling in a few week's time. The clear water looked perfect for boating, fishing and swimming but we only saw a yacht and a few people doing the latter.
We had noticed a couple on the boat with a young son, who appeared to be sick, as well as a delightful baby girl about 6 months old. Judy spent some time smiling and doing those things people do with little babies, the girl responding to her. She is missing her grandson! Later we found that the couple were from Slovakia and that the boy was severely retarded.
Even though there were a few restaurants open near where the boat landed the crowd all headed to one further up the street. We joined them and even though no
Vranov dam
The ferry we cruised on was electric powered. English was spoken managed to choose the lunch special of the day, a delicious chicken noodle soup, followed by roast beef with dumplings smothered in a sauce. Very tasty!
Back to our lodgings, much easier and quicker going downhill, where we spent the rest of the afternoon with Judy working and Rags spending some time with his eyes closed.
At 1800 church bells pealed and echoed through the hills around us. As it was a Saturday this could only have been for a wedding ceremony. What a romantic way to start married life.
We had a light meal of soup and bread in the apartment in the evening, neither of us very hungry after the lunch that we'd had.
Sunday 25th May 2014 We had a terrible night last night, thanks to some inconsiderate guests who came in at 0130 and yelled and banged and left lights on thus waking us up. Then it quietened and just as we almost nodded off it started again!
We dropped in at the hotel for breakfast and renewed acquaintance with Glen and Jen, the NZ couple we met previously. They have been to
a few different places than us, being transported somewhere and then they ride for a day or so. They will be leaving Czech Republic tomorrow.
Our excursion for the day was to ride into Austria and see the Hardegg Castle. This castle is described as being one of the best maintained Austrian castles of the Middle Ages. The return ride is described as being 23kms long. Maybe as the bird flies it is, certainly not the way the Weggelaars do it!
We followed the map to the first turn only to find the track closed with a gate across it. We then used our map, supplied by our landlady, and took the vehicle track. This made its way into the national park, turned and twisted along, eventually it came to a dead end. We retraced some of our steps eventually returning to where we had started earlier. We estimate we travelled at least 20kms.
On checking the “closed” gate we found it was offset to allow cyclists through! Bumping our way down a track we crossed into Austria just a kilometre further on. Eventually, after a scary (for Judy) 4 km downhill ride we got to the
Hardegg
View from the castle hamlet where Hardegg castle was. Very impressive from a distance but very disappointing inside. Little has been done to it except in the chapel and dining rooms, weeds including nettles were growing over the paths and in the open spaces. Maybe they should spend the exorbitant entry price on some weedkiller! We wandered around munching on a couple of expensive drumsticks that we had included on the visa card with entry price - different currency here, isn't it?
Rather than stopping here for lunch we opted to return to Vranov so that we could enjoy a drink with it. We were travelling in an anti-clockwise direction, as advised by Jana, this was now appreciated as we had come down a long hill and the long hill we were now climbing didn't seem as long or steep. Finally we reached a turn-off where the sign gave a choice of 5kms along a track or11 kms along the bitumen road. We opted for the track. Second big mistake. Judy doesn't feel confident on dirt track or descending muddy, rocky, steep hills. The track seemed to be all of these, so she walked much of the way, Rags losing patience as a
Hardegg castle
From another angle result!
By the time we got back to the room we weren't saying much to each other, but after a shower and fresh clothing and a few drinks at the “Boat” restaurant, we became a little more friendly to each other. We estimate our easy 23kms ride became a tough 50kms one. We agreed to make tomorrow's ride a relatively short 30kms ride unless we find the going easier than expected. After tomorrow the varying elevations of the ride should be quite flat but tomorrow is documented in the map guide as 666 metres of up and down hill. We hope it's not that bad!.
A quiet evening followed, we both hoped for a much more pleasant day tomorrow.
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Thelma
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Bike Rides
Oh dear, remind me not to ask either of you for directions !! It must be very difficult though when all the Road Signs are in a foreign language and when you go the opposite direction to the one your given ! Oh well, it's all part of a "Bicycle Holiday" surely, and when you get home you can look back at the experience and laugh about it. The scenery looks a bit different to your earlier Posts, more old worldly. The Chateau and the Hardegg Castle look magnificent. What huge looking places !!!!? The boat cruise made a nice difference to riding the bike. Looks like you were dressed in summery clothes Judy ? You'll need warmer clothes when you arrive home. Going down to 8c tonight ! And we have also had the wettest May for 20 years. The weeds are loving it along with our plants and trees. Bye now. Lots of love.