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Published: July 28th 2006
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Bridge guitarist
It wouldn't be a visit to Prague without strolling across the bridge a few times. Prague/ Bratislava/ Brno/ Cesky Krumlov
Following the World Cup- being disappointed not only by the US but then that Argentina lost as well- I headed east to the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Vienna in the final days of June and early July. Things were clearly picking up on the eastern front, the weather was great and summer tourism was getting into full blossom.
Prague, my first destination, is the talk of Europe now and Vaclavske Square is filled with tourists. Pavlina had also come over from San Francisco back to her home country for a visit so it was great having a 'local guide' who spoke the native language and knew the local beer. After first crossing the Charles Bridge 7 years ago, I was excited to see how the city has changed and what all the new rage is about Prague. Clearly, the prices have caught up to western European standards, but the charm of Prague- it’s old city streets, gigantic castle overlooking the city and central Vaclavske Square with all the modern buildings- this is what has attracted all the visitors and a top 10 rating in Lonely Planet’s new book on the top cities of the
Pavlina looking beautiful in her home country
Having a 'local' back in town was invaluable and a lot of fun. world..
Any visit to Prague requires lots of beer drinking as they are known as one of the best purveyors of beer worldwide and I got my fill of Budvar and Pilsner Urquell.. but I was even more impressed by the cuisine, thoroughly enjoying goulash, their dumplings and even Becherovka (Czech liquor, similar to Ouzo or Jagermeister). It was fun getting lost around the old city, stumbling around into different bars and trying to decipher the Lonely Planet guide to different night spots. I did manage to find some great pubs and cool little cafes hidden all over.
Any trip to Praha is incomplete without a visit to Prague Castle (the largest castle complex in the world) and a few strolls across the Charles Bridge. The castle has seen the coronation of kings and emperors through Hapsburg and Bohemian times, the start of the 30 year war between Catholics and Protestants which shaped Bohemian history; it’s heard the speeches of Hitler and the propaganda of communism and stayed as the central point in Czech history throughout time. The castle is defined by the church, which also contains the bodies of several archbishops and kings; it’s as impressive as
Cesky Krumlov
This small town in SW Czech is a stunning medival town with a massive castle overlooking the city. I have seen on my travels thus far.
I was most moved by the Communist Museum and the photography exhibit by Jan Sibik. I have long been intrigued what life must have been like in the former eastern block countries under harsh communist rule and the museum answered many of the questions. Propaganda from the Russians pervaded Czech culture and struck a sense of fear about the American invader; something a gringo like me can look back on and laugh as I recall our mutual fear of Russia. There were highlights about the ideal working man (coming in early and staying late), the insecurity of people in the state (children were told to spy on their parents and neighbors) and the central planning of the economy to fix prices and wages. Most strikingly was the account of the resistance by the Czech people in 1968 with an invasion of 500,000 Russians and their tanks after an attempt at more mild socialism. This, along with the accounts of the 1969 student revolt in which Jan Palach burned himself in protest and film coverage about the occupation, was the most moving account of the dark life behind the curtain. It put
Capitalist propogranda
Funny to think about what they told their citizens about us behind the wall... Pavlina into tears and remained with us for the remainder of the day.
From Prague it was on to Bratislava to visit Nina for a taste of the new Slovakia and its capital. Bratislava was what I expected- smaller than Prague, growing quickly in its own right, changing from the old ugly architecture of communism into a new modern capital and crazy night life. I was treated to great hospitality there and had a few homemade meals there and in Trebic, which were a very welcome retreat from my choice of cuisine the past few months. A Saturday night out in Bratislava saw chic lounges and ended late at the Harley Davidson Rock Bar… Eastern Europe at its finest. From there I backtracked to Brno and Trebic back in the Czech Republic to relax and get a glimpse of traditional Czech life. One of the clear contrasts I noticed in the former communist block countries is the architecture under communism, which housed people in large, unattractive apartment buildings that decayed under Soviet rule. While the stench of communism is still present on the outside, these are now being replaced with more attractive facades while the interiors, like the people,
Jan Pallich, martyr
This young student burned himself to death in protest of Soviet occupation in 1968. are changing quickly to incorporate the style they’ve always had. My last gem in the Czech Republic was Cesky Krumlov, a quaint small medieval town with cobblestone streets, a massive castle overlooking the twisting river and a smattering of great little cafes.. an enchanting place reminiscent of the old tales of royal families, castles and folklore.
In my first visit to Vienna, I was really impressed with what a historical, cultured city it was, containing a vast amount of museums on art, history and especially classical music (being the home to Mozart and Bach). It was great to have a place right off of MariahilfeStrasse, the main shopping street in the city, because I had quick access to the city, parks and the Museum Quarter. It was easy to get back in to the Buenos Aires frame of mind, strolling in the parks and drinking Starbucks, taking the subway all over and popping in and out of museums. On the bike tour through the city highlighting mainly the huge museums and sights of the Hapsburg royalty, I was most impressed by Hundertwasser, a small and colorful work of architecture housing people and businesses on the east end of the
Velvet Revolution
The Czechs finally became free in the autumn of 1989 shortly after the Berlin Wall came down.. an extremely emotional time. city reminiscent of Gaudi in Barcelona.
But with the heat rising, I had decided it was time to move south to Italy and Greece….
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Bill Scherfel
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You have now taken over as the craziest guy I know.