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Published: August 8th 2007
Me on Petrin´s Tower
This is way up on the hill with the Castle in the background.
Julie J Vanover I left Cesky Krumlov on the bus, which is the fastest way to go becuase of the work that they are doing on the railroads. So I thought it couldn't be too bad... famous last words. The guy in front of me had this huge single dread lock that he pulled off of his head about 5 inches up with this huge head band. He put this dread of hair over the seat and practically in my face. If I leaned forward more than a few inches than it was right there. He kept falling asleep and leaning onto the guy next to him (which he didn't find very amusing). To the left of me was the window and to the right of me was a Czech guy who didn't smell very good, with a baby who was very cute, but as babies are, not very respecting of space. And his dog was at my feet. It was a very long bus ride to say the least, so I was very happy to arrive in Prague.
I got in a little late in the evening, so I just explored the Charles Bridge area for a while. Charles Bridge is
The Spanish Synagogue
Look at the Moorish look of this synagogue, I loved it. I also thought that it was really cool that they would incorporate the Moorish influence into their Synagogue. I don´t think that I saw any Christian Churches that had Moorish themes that didn´t start out as Mosques. such a cool bridge, the statues, the cobblestones, the looming castle above. It has such a presence, the entire area does. After a nice walk around the river, bridges and the Little Quarter- the area under the castle- I called it a night.
The next day I walked through the Jewish Quarter and went through several different Synagogues and an old Jewish Cemetary. The history of the whole area was so interesting. At one time there had been around 13 Synagogues but now there are I think five, but only one is actually being used to worship. The other Synagogues are museums that go into the history of what the Jews went through in the area. But, I found this very ironic if not a little creepy was that the Synagogues had been intended to be used as a museum of a dead race (meaning the Jews) by the Nazi's. Many of the artifacts of the differnet Jewish communities and Synagogues in the area were all gathered in this area with the original intention of creating a Jewish Museum before WWII and the Nazi's after negotiations allowed it.
The most beautiful synagogue by far was the Spanish Synagogue
Prague and the Charles Bridge
This is looking across the river from the Castle side of the river. which was decorated in a Moorish style with arches, geometric patterns and golds and blues. This synagogue is actually why I paid to go see the synagogues, I originally wasn't going to because they didn't look that amazing. Then I saw this one on a postcard and I knew that I needed to see the inside. The Pinkas Synagogue had very little decoration, but all of the walls were covered with writing. This writing had the names of all the Bohemian and Moravian Jews that had been killed by the Nazis. Just walking through there and seeing so many names and seeing how young some of them were and where they had lived was powerful, there were alot of names on those walls.
Next to this Synagogue was the Old Jewish Cemetary which has over 12,00 tombstones but many more people than that are buried there. It was used from 1439-1787, and as they ran out of space they expanded until there was no more room to expand. Then they brought in new dirt and started layering the graves up. The tombstones would be pulled up to the surface leading to a very crazy placement of tombstones with them
The Small Details
Prague is just filled with little things like this, a light post that is much more than a light post. These little details just make me love the place. leaning against each other and very close to each other. I really liked to read the Hebrew that was on the graves and try to see if I could figure out what it said (I of course could not). It was a very cool cemetary- lots of atmosphere.
From here I explored the Stare Mesto, I saw two towers there were both very black are not very far away from each other, so I was a little perplexed by them. Found the old Municiple House by chance and it was beautiful. Walked around the Old Town Square where there is this fun Astronomical Clock, I waited to the hour for it to go off and it didn't do anything both times that I was there to watch it. I was highly suspecting that it was broken but they just didn't want the tourists to know... what are the odds that both times I was there it just happened to not work, hmmm. But even though it didn't work it was still very nice and cool to see. The Tyn Church overlooks the square with these tall black, looming spires, but when I went to find the front of the
The Jewish Cemetary
If you look at the tombstone you can see the Hebrew writing. See how eratic the tombstones are? church I couldn't. That is until I walked down an alley, the buildings in front of the square were built right in front of the church- literally right in front. So to get to the church you had to go through this little alleyway. So the top of the church is all that you can see. It is a little bizarre- it almost looks like the church is growing out of the buildings, which in a way I guess it is. I thought it was just a little weird to build a bunch of buildings right in front of a church.
The next day I went on the free tour of Prague! They just take tips at the end of the tour so you pay whatever you can or want- very nice. It was here that I found out the castle was closed for the next two days because President Bush was in town. Why he was here in Prague- I don't know- but it was really annoying that they shut down the entire castle! So our tour wasn't going to the castle- we were just going to explore more of the city. We learned alot of the history
Pinkas Synagogue
If you look you can see all the names on the walls, this covers every wall. It gives you the chills when you realize how many Jews there were killed just from this area. of Prague and the region plus tons of little cool facts. Highlights were the information and history about the Jewish Quarter which I was very curious after seeing it and the synagogues the previous day. The church with the 'Infant of Prague' which was a little baby Jesus statue that they changed the clothes for once a year. I had looked for it but couldn't find it but I had seen so many pictures and little replicas of it. It didn't look as silly in real life as it did in all the tourist shops, but it still looked a little silly I thought. We also stopped at a restaurant and I had some borsch- this Czech soup which was really good but very filling! Also at lunch I talked to a couple from Oregon about the Sedlac Ossuary which I had heard about from one of the managers at work (thank you Kevin) but didn´t get any information about it before I left. After talking to them about it I was thinking about going to because I couldn't go to the castle the next day.
After the tour I took the Metro down to the Vysehrad area which
is where a woman (yes a woman) is said to have founded the city of Prague on the cliffs above the river. I walked through this beautiful park built up on a hill above the river until I got to the Church of Petra a Pavla. It is this huge black Church with these beautiful doors and I went in and there was an entrance fee (very small), but I thought about not going in. Boy am I glad that I did because I think that this is my favorite church is Europe that I have seen. The entire church was decorated in the Art Nouveau style with very soft flowing patterns and soft colors with gold leaf. Wow! It was more than a church it was an artistic masterpiece. I walked around the church for quite a while looking at all the painted walls- admiring them. I managed to sneak a few pictures, but it wasn't easy. It was just so pretty and different than any other church. And to think I almost didn't go in because it cost a little. Sometimes I am too cheap! I loved this church so much! And it was so quiet and away
Tyn Church
See what I mean, it looks like the church literally grows out of the buildings in front of it. from all the crowds of Prague which just added to the charm.
I walked up the river and saw the Dancing House- or Fred and Ginger (to be honest I really don't know which is actually the name). This was a cool unique house- different. Then I hiked up this hill that really didn't look very high or steep from the bottom, famous last words. I got half way up and was regretting not taking the funicular. Oh well, on the top is Petrin Tower which I climbed up and had some of the most beautiful views of Prague. After this busy day I was off to bed.
The next day I went to Kutna Hora... included in a seperate post (please stay tuned, it is very cool). After getting back I went up to the castle grounds which opened at six, but everything in the castle including St. Vitus Cathedral closes at five. So I walked around the castle grounds and knew, just from seeing the outside of the cathedral that I was going to need to come and see it before I left for Berlin the next day.
I wanted to be at the church
Interior of the Petra a Pavla Church
See the painting style, I just loved it. at 9 when it opened, but anyone who knows me can guess that this didn´t happen. But I wasn´t too worried because I could still make the train I wanted to catch, I would just have to hurry. I got to St. Vitus Cathedral and there was a line to get in the church which took over an hour. Ugh... I should have known that there would be a line because noone else had been able to see the church for two days either. So, by the time I got in the church I knew that I wasn´t going to make the train I wanted catch to Berlin. I church proved to be worth it though. It was huge! And very bright and open, I like that in churches. When they are too dark and enclosed they feel claustraphobic. My favorite part of the church was the huge stained glass window that was designed by Alfons Mucha. It was a lovely, bright and colorful window. I think it is probably my favorite that I have seen. We could also climb up to the clock tower which had amazing views of the city and the top of the church. The only
Petra a Pavla Church
Another of the beautiful paintings in the church. I loved this church. bad part was the way up was a spiral staircase with people going up and down at the same time and the last 60 or so stairs it narrows a little bit too small. It gets a little hairy, but it wasn´t too bad. All in the adventure of things.
I left Prague very happy with my visit and everything that I saw, this city definitely did not disappoint. This has been one of my favorite cities by far. It is a beautiful city with plenty to do to keep you busy, but not so much to do that you feel overwhelmed. Everything is very walkable friendly with plenty to see as you walk through any of the sections.
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Mom & Dad
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We had no idea that Prague was such a beautiful city. Loved the Spanish Synagogue. Seeing all of those names written on the walls of the Jewish Synagogue must have been such a somber experience. Don't know how anyone can deny that the Holocaust was real. So glad you went to the church and cathedral. The pictures of the stained glass window and walls of the church are gorgeous.