Best advice for Prague: leave the map in your pocket.


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Europe » Czech Republic » Prague » New Town
August 19th 2012
Published: August 21st 2012
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Day three
Ned travel tip number ??: if you want to find something in Prague, leave the map in your pocket.

Sleep was a bit out of whack, but today was my first full day in Prague and I was looking forward to it. Quickly got ready and went down for breakfast. Remember those 500 odd guests checking in I mentioned yesterday? Well apparently they wanted bkft too, the hotel had even set up a secondary buffet and eating area to accommodate us all. Wow! Food was amazing and I stuffed myself realizing I'd not really eaten much yesterday. Then, horror of horrors; I saw them, sitting innocently whispering sweet nothing's in my direction....... Fresh true, buttery, light, European croissants! Damn diet!...... It lost and I happily ate one of those buttery, fresh little pieces of heaven. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Off I went, wandering and prepared to find the Jewish Cemetery and the astrological clock I had missed yesterday. Really, I'd already been through the Jewish Quarter twice, how hard is it to find dead people ( and apparently over 12,000 of them)? I wandered alongside from the river, determined to find this shortcut to the centre of tourist sites, and still ended up in some random place, trying to use the map. So that's when I said to hell with the map, folded it up neatly in my pocket, and let Prague determine my fate and play tour guide. It did not disappoint:-)

Low and behold I found the old Town Square and the astrological clock, which is very impressive and dates back to, well forever! ( If you want historical facts, my blog is not the place for that!) the town hall which I went up after walking around in circles looking for it. (um Ned it's right in front of you, d'oh!). Watched the clock change to 9, was really cool then enjoyed the views of morning PRG from the top of the tower, beautiful city no matter which way you look. Keeping said map tucked nicely away, I saw the Old Town Square, New Town Square, Wenceslas Square, Letna Gardens, beautiful river walks, amazing architecture and on and on. I ended up on the west side of the river and ran into the grounds for the Prague Castle, but wanted to save that for tomorrow.

Discovered by fluke there IS a hop on, hop off bus so I happily bought a ticket good for 48 hours, and went back downtown. I had a sandwich at a street vendor, it was so big I saved the second half for dinner, then hopped the "red line" for a remote tour of the city, with the second last stop being my hotel, just in time for a nap. The most obscure thing I saw on that was the TV tower, which was designed by a famous architect, who thought it would be cool to have 3 statues of babies crawling up the tower. Um, creepy yes, cool not so much. I dare say I won't forget it!

Back to the hotel for a reprieve from the heat and nap time. got up and walked to the boat dock for my free one hour cruise on the river included with my hop on hop off pass. Realized the clock in my room is quite fast, so had plenty of time to kill at the dock. Thankfully, the tourists lining up for said trip were more than interesting enough to people watch and keep me entertained. The one thing I've noticed is that I've heard endless Eastern European languages, but rarely English. Surprising to see just how many people come here for vacation, (I noticed it slowed down a bit on Monday so obviously weekend trips for some) particularly Russian, Baltic, Hungarian (that language I recognize even if I can't speak it) Slavic and who knows what else. I did hear some North Americans on Monday but still a minority without question.

Aside from the full out yelling argument that ensued with an American and a European, which was entertaining, the boat trip was relaxing. Europeans in general are much pushier and crowd personal space, even I'm struggling with it, but I try to remind myself it's culture not rudeness. Said American (who was obviously an ex-pat from Japan) didn't quite get that and went on a rant for several minutes about the improper behavior of Europeans in general, and how Americans NEVER behave like that. Um, no comment.......

Cruising along the river in the late afternoon was wonderful and again made for some picturesque snapshots, while enjoying a glass of cheap Czech wine with Miss Jill. I even asked a stranger to take my photo; figured they couldnt run far with my camera on a boat so I got my only photo of myself in PRG, now have proof I was here:-)

After that I was determined to find the dead people, I have a morbid fascination with cemetaries and heard the Jewish one was spectacular. Well 4th attempt to locate and I finally realized the Cemetary is INSIDE of the Jewish museum, of which I wasn't expecting. I just thought I'd walk by the graveyard, get that chill up my spine as a cold draft of lost souls float by. Nope, gotta pay $15 to enter the museum grounds and it's hidden in there surrounded by buildings (which did make for a pretty site). Got my fill of tombstones, they were all literally crammed in together, and a few cool shots, as you were only allowed to walk around it,not inside.

I had a bit of time left before the site closed for the day so checked out the Jewish Pinkas synagogue built in 1535. In the late 50's it became a memorial to the Jews of Bohemia and Moravia. 800,000 names hand written on the walls, a painstakintpg task showing full name and date of birth and death, but a touching memoire to those souls. The Communist Rehime destroyed in in '68, but it was Rewritten between 92-96. I found one person with my last name and while I know little of my fathers heritage, it makes you wonder.

After that, I was wiped and headed back to the hotel. It was late in the day, everything was closed (Sunday) and my feet were done. Fabulous day and lots of exploring and discovery. Now if I could only find that damn walkway/shortcut to the hotel, this time I crossed the freeway on foot (Not an east task).

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