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Europe » Croatia
October 1st 2008
Published: October 16th 2008
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Well after a 7-hour overnight train from Venice to Zagreb, we tried to rest/sleep on the floor at the train station as it was 4.30 and our train was not going to leave until 6.50am. Zagreb, maybe a nice place to stay for a day or two, but due to our short time restraints we where keen to do all the travelling we could to get to Split ASAP for a bit of a chill.
The train station was not much chop with little seating and being asked to leave certain areas of the station where sleeping was not permitted. The trip to Split was neither here nor there. I had my book to read, but Girvo was short of power on his ipod and probably did not kill the time as easily as I did. We got into Split around 12.30 and headed to our hostel (Silver Central) where we unpacked, then headed on a scavenger hunt for food. We then explored the city. The main promenade of Split is quite beautiful and would be a hive of activity during the summer. But unfortunately we did not catch it at its busiest so the bars were not as packed as a few weeks earlier, but the streets and cafes where still busy during the day and early evenings.

It was not a massive night. Being a Tuesday the place was always going to be a little quiet but we enjoyed a few beers and a card game or 10 with Gabe and Mitch, (Mornington Peninsular) two lads staying at the hostel also. Wednesday was once again very relaxed. After our very quick sightseeing of Italy we were quite keen to relax and enjoy some quiet time, so we headed to the beach for a swim and roamed the streets for a bit of the day. We headed back to the restaurant that we ate at the night previous to try out some more of the local cuisine. I was very keen to try some more of their seafood and get away from the constant consumption of pizza and pasta that we had whilst in Italy. After that we headed back to the hostel and played a few more card games of Shit Head and Presidents & Arseholes. Great clean fun, really. We had a few drinks at the hostel and went to check out one of the over priced bars, before I pulled the pin. My poor form lead to Girvo heading out on the town with a few aussie girls who we drank with at the hostel. He assures me, that my presence as his wingman would have resulted in a number of Croatian ladies spending the night at the hostel. I felt my early departure was a safe bet.

The next morning we check out and headed from the bus station where a 5-hour bus to Dubrovnik awaited us. Not a bad journey, but we had to stop a couple of times while we crossed the Montenegro borders, no stamp unfortunately (they really don’t like to stamp the passports over here). The bus trip was one of the most scenic of the trip so far. It was very similar to driving down the Great Ocean Road in some parts. Once we got into Dubrovnik we were swamped with Croatians trying to get us to stay in their apartments.
Even though we did not have one, we declined and called the number of a place that a few people had recommended. Thankfully one of the guys trying to get us to stay with him was there and we got a lift to the apartments/dorms. Whilst dumping our stuff in our 4 bed dorm room I started chatting to an Aussie girl who told me she was living in Melbourne, but actually owned up to originally being from Ballarat, shared some come names and the like. But it was after I notated a list of things to do in South America, as that’s where she was headed next, she realised upon leaving my email address that I was in fact the great Michael Lewis, son of Joy and Chris. To my surprise she was a family friend of mums. Here name’s Imogene Westfield. Her mum had been friends with Joy since teachers college. So it was a surprise to see her since it must have been some 10 years since we had last met. The 6 degrees just keep getting closer; this world is too small for a small town guy like me.

Once again it was a low-key night after Pizza and Pasta, still great, but a bit consistent for my liking and probably my waistline. The atmosphere at the hostel was quite dead and we were keen to try to get into the old town for a few days as that’s where the action was mainly and Sarah, who I partied and stay with in Iso and Granada was also in old town, but in cognitio. We spent most of the day just wondering around the Old Town and doing the walk around the fortress walls. Impressive views and it’s something to do, as the town itself is not that large. Our other mission for the day was to locate the AFL Grand Final. We hit the jackpot when we located the aussie café/restaurant that we had been informed about. Unfortunately the Croatian/Aussie was not showing the game but was working on his mate in one of the 3 Irish bars to show the game live. The best result was that they would show the replay at 1pm our time, 8pm in oz. After this semi ok news we ran into Gianna, one of the girls Brett headed out with in Split who recommend a good place (Fresh Sheets). Thankfully they had rooms so we checked in and then headed back to grab our bags and say our farewells to Imogene. That night after grabbing a bite to eat at a small local joint that serves up some mean chicken we headed to one of the 3 Irish bars in town where we ran into Gabe and Mitch who had also just got into the old town. From there we headed to Fresh, the café/bar that owns the apartments. It is a pretty tiny place, but a good place to chill out for a few, that is if you stay off the 3-Litre towers of beer or spirits that they serve, which we did.
We ventured to look for another club, but since the summer season is wrapping up it was quite dead. Before going to bed, we turned off our phones and refused to check the internet or communicate with any one who looks like they knew the game scores. Problem was that I was waiting on a text from Sarah so I had to check the phone. Thankfully during our night out, we had a new room mate, a Canadian guy who new little of the best game in the world, even when he did live in Hawthorn a number of years back. So I got him to check my messages with out telling me any scores that he did see no news from Sarah but a lot of happy supporters and score updates from Joy. By this stage, 1pm could not come quick enough. After killing some time and not enjoying my hang over breakfast, we headed to the bar at 12.30. We were met by Gabe & Mitch, plus a few other Cats supports and footy followers in general. Well to say I was a happy man at the end of the day would be to call Brad Ottens unselfish. I spent the day watching and drinking intently wearing Cameron Ling’s footy shorts that Girvo would not wear in public. After that we ventured to another Irish bar, then to the restaurant that we had loved the night before. By this stage our 40-year old (did not look over 30) Canadian mate was going toe for toe with us sat down to tea and told us of his travel tales and life in an Indian Reserve in Canada. The meal was amazing. Chicken alla Dubrovnik it was known by, but to top it off, for entrée we were given 2 large trays of Muscles for free. From there we headed to Fresh for the 3-Litre towers, back to our apartment for a change of clothes plus some beers and shots. We met the boys back at fresh a little bit later on. So after nearly 12-hours of drinking I would have had to classify myself as disgraceful as the Geelong forward line and took myself off to bed, which I wish they did some where in between missing 10 easy shots on goal.

We arose at 9am on Sunday morning hung as hell and shattered from the night out, but more so the performance of the Geelong boys, bar Gary, Linga & Scarlett. It was this pain I blame for us not getting organised in time to make our 10am ferry to Hvar and well we payed the price for it. We had to jump on a 5 -hour bus trip back to Split. That was one of the more physically and mentally challenging things of my trip so far. Thankfully we had arrived with enough time up our sleeve to make the last ferry to Hvar. We got in and once again balked the crowds trying to get us to stay and headed for another hostel (Green Lizard) that was recommended to us. Even though we did not have a reservation, thankfully being low season there was plenty of beds and the prices had been lowered. I was able to summon some energy to head to town and eat some food before me and Girv crashed hard. The sleep in was blissful and much needed. It was a very relaxing day. Headed to the shops to grab some food to whip up a bite to eat, cruised the streets around the port and then took a dip and a bake on the pebble beach. That night we headed out for a bite to eat and then hit the hay early. That night was quite restless with a million things on my mind about the trip, credit cards, insurance. I did not find myself falling asleep until 2pm. This was pretty much the same program for the Tuesday as well. We also headed up to the castle to take a look at the view as well around to Hula Hula Bar around the bay which has a prime spot for the sunset.

Wednesday morning was an early one since we had to be on the last ferry of the island to Split at 7.30am. Once we arrived in Split we put our gear in luggage storage, got some breakfast at Fab our little café run by an aussie couple that we had eaten at a few times before during our time in Split. But this time I was up early enough to try their Bacon, Egg and Cheese muffin. Well it was easily the best I have eaten in the past 12months and up there all time I think. After that we headed around to the hostel we stayed at to see if we could chill there for a bit and use the wireless before catching our 3pm train to Zagreb. The train to Zagreb was thankfully on time and we had time to organise ourselves some food for the next leg of our trip to Munich. This train however was half an hour behind schedule, so we sat waiting in our cabin. Thankfully at this point in time it was just me and Girvo, and it stayed this way for most of the trip. Sarah whom I meet with Laura in Granada and then partied it up with them in Iso, was in the cabin next door with her friend Eliza. Both of them I was planning to meet in Munich. They had the same idea of getting there, toughing out on an over night train. It was not the greatest ride and we got minimal sleep and the ticket conductors and passport officers were frequently checking our tickets and passport, to add to this the heater was broken and it was like a sauna on the train.

I had a great time in Croatia and it was very chilled at times and quickly full on at others. I would suggest if you do come depending on your budget and time frame, to really make the most of the islands and get there a month or two earlier than I did. The best two options for seeing the islands are to hire a yacht and cruise around the hundreds of islands on the coast, or if you’re up for a party, definitely get on one of the Croatia Sail or Bus About boat tours. I did not have the time or money to do either, but if I come back I will plan to. The way Brett and I did it is fine and the local ferries would run more frequently in the summer time than it did during our visit. There is so much to see in Croatia and I only hit the major spots of the coast. I would have like to seen a few more of the islands and spend some time in Zadar, as well as a day or two in Zagreb.
I’m signing off to you now on my way to Oktoberfest. who knows if I will remember anything about it, so, the next blog maybe short and sweet.



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