Wacky dining Istrian-style

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Geo: 44.825, 13.8589

On Sunday, we took a chance, it being at a weekend, to return to the peninsula beyond Premantura which features the wild and remote Kamenjak National Park. Being in the car there is a charge to enter (bikes and pedestrians free) via rugged gravel tracks which lead off in various directions to bays and coves with rocky shorelines. Having read about it in the Lonely Planet guide, we made for the southern end at Kolombarica where above the cliffs we found the unusual beach bar, Safari, half-hidden in the undergrowth, with intimate alcoves in which to dine, decorated with all manner of flotsam and jetsam. The tables and seating created from boulders and tree trunks put you in mind of The Flintstones!

After a coffee, we settled ourselves on a rocky ledge looking out to sea for a couple of hours and watching the mad, young things jumping and diving into the sea below - not quite as daring as Acapulco but rather them than me. When we had had enough of the sun, it was back to the shady bar for a fast food version of a fishy lunch - sardines for me, and squid for him. We later learned that the owner had previously been evicted from the spot but after the locals set up a petition was allowed to 'rebuild' it, albeit temporary structures.

The medieval settlement of Bale between Rovinj and Vodnjan was our destination on Tuesday, again on recommendation, claiming to be one of Istria's best-kept secrets. Quite bijou, it features a maze of narrow cobblestone streets, churches, a town hall and ancient town houses that developed around the recently restored castle of the Bembo family. They are into olives and we bought some of their award-winning oil.

Being lunchtime, we made for Kamene Price which we had read about for its quirky, bohemian atmosphere - they have rooms, restaurant, bar and entertainment space - with the whimsical decor made up of a wealth of bizarre, salvaged objects such as an old stove, industrial light fittings and bits of broken stone statues. We enjoyed a shared meat/cheese platter to start with, then he had pasta (bit predictable) with ham and truffle, while I had pork and prosciutto, sitting on one of the outside, shady terraces. Delightful.

We are enjoying the quiet, friendly ambience of Camp Diana and the surrounding area, so not venturing too far afield, particularly as the days and nights are so hot. We have been disturbed by distant rumbles of thunder and minor rainfall for several nights now, but no huge storm.,

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Comments

[Dawn Simpson]

Hi Lynne Just returned from our holiday in Croatia today and we weren't far away from you in Porec. We have had a great time visiting some of the hill top villages. Hope you enjoy your time there as much as we have. I kept thinking I mig
ht bump into you !! Was trying to find your blog but hadn't got it on my phone.

[lynnib]

Did wonder if you would be around, Dawn. Banjole was about an hour away from Porec and we have found the Croatian road network impressive so far. The internet was erratic, but free, at Camp Diana so keeping in touch has been limited. We
definitely hope to return so that we can do everything we have missed out.