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Published: August 7th 2008
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The Marco Polo
- our transport AND accommodation from Italy to Croatia across the Mediterranean. Thursday 15 May 2008 Despite sleeping on the floor, we had a very restful night. The weather was quite warm, the carpet was soft and the Mediterranean Sea was flat. We awoke to a beautiful sunrise over the port of Dubrovnik where we had to leave the boat for Croatian Immigration. Once through, we were approached by a crowd of private accommodation providers. They were very polite but we had to decline because we were getting back on the boat to continue on north to Korcula. We sat on the port for about an hour admiring the view and the crystal clear water.
Back on the boat, we continued for another 3 hours to the island of Korcula. Korcula is one of the largest of 1100 islands off the coast of Croatia. Once at the dock we were again approached by a crowd of private accommodation providers. To their disappointment we had already booked accommodation in Vela Luka on the other side of the island but they were very polite and helped us find the bus to Vela Luka. We thought we had just made the bus with only moments to spare and a 2 hour wait until the
next one. But it appeared no one on the island was in a hurry so we actually had some waiting time before the bus left.
The road to Vela Luka wound high into the mountains, past small villages, forests and rocky terraces growing grapes and olive trees - or according to the tourist brochure, wine and virgins.
When we arrived in Vela Luka we met Bobby from Croatia Divers who checked us into the Hotel Dalmatia. The hotel was a little shabby but comfortable and well located in town overlooking the bay. We were surprised, however, to be staying there as we were advised that the Hotel Poseidon we tried to book was till being renovated and the alternate Hotel Adria was unexpectedly closed. Bobby claimed to not know anything about the arrangements, but we actually found out later that HE owns the Hotel Poseidon. Something slightly dodgy happening on that side of the island but we didn't really care so long as we got accommodation.
We settled into the Hotel Dalmatia and then went for a walk around town. It was a lovely little town and nice and quite due to the official tourist season not
starting for another few weeks.
We returned to the hotel for dinner which was included as half-board in our dive/accommodation package. We thought it best to select dinner instead of lunch because we would be out on boat dives most days. Dinner consisted of Dalmatian soup followed by delicious goulash. Michael washed his down with delicious Karlovacko beer - just one because 'drinking kills diving skills'. Hazelnut ice cream for dessert - YUM!
Friday 16 May 2008 Contrary to Bobby's advice it wasn't a 15 minute stroll around to the dive shop it was actually a 30 minute brisk walk from the Hotel Dalmatia. Luckily we had expected this and left early.
We let the dive shop staff know that we were unhappy with the muddling up of our arrangements and the assured us they would make amends. We then fitted up our gear and went out on the boat with Bobby's brother Billy for our dives. We dived the Osjak Steps and West Kamenjak Island. The water was SOOO clear and there was so much life. There is amazing coral life but to see fish you have to dive deeper than the free-diving spear fishermen.
It was so cold we were wearing two wetsuits each, hoods, gloves, and wishing for more. Unfortunately Michael had already sent home the underwater housing for the camera so we didn't get any photos.
After finding lunch in the local supermarket easily as there are THREE in town, we enjoyed an afternoon 'dive snooze'. Refreshed, we watched the sunset from the Plaf Bar over a Karlovacko and a traditional add-your-own-sugar lemonade. Back at the hotel it was veal and soup with more yummy hazelnut ice cream to follow.
Saturday 17 May 2008 Bobby picked us up in the morning and took us to the dive shop. We went out diving with Billy again, this time at Kitty's Dock. The ride was pretty bumpy as it was quite far out towards the mouth of the bay.
Billy dropped us back off at the supermarket where we picked up lunch and dive snacks for days ahead because that afternoon we were moving to the Hotel Adria per our booking. It was a large resort hotel but very far from town so we needed to stock up on provisions. A minivan transferred us to Hotel Adria were we enjoyed
our traditional afternoon dive snooze.
Michael went for an afternoon walk around the area surrounding the hotel but west away from the port. Lots of nice coves to see, olive tree terraces, sea urchins, and butterflies.
Dinner at the hotel was great: fried fish and cevapcici (small skinless sausages'), more Dalmatian soup and the banana with chocolate sauce for dessert. The best bit was FREE unlimited beer on tap! Unfortunately we were diving the next day so we couldn't go nuts - and it was only Stella, not Karlovacko!
Sunday 18 May 2008 We were exhausted in the morning. The hotel had hosted the local high school prom and the music blasted until 5am. Bobby picked us up and took us to the dive shop where we met John, an American traveller who was coming diving also. We dived Osjak Steps and a new site which the group christened "fish garden".
Billy tried to give us a lift back to Hotel Adria after the dives but his car broke down so we walked the 40 minute track along the coast instead.
We lunched and snoozed the afternoon away because we were so tired from lack
of sleep the prior night.
Dinner was great - stew, calamari, pork, salads AND dessert!
Monday 19 May 2008 We headed out to dive two of the island's most famous sites, Poplat and Vrinane. Spectacular!
After diving we walked into town to collect supplies and then collected our laundry back at the hotel - 283HRK! - that's over $50AUD! Robbery! They gave us an itemised bill of every sock they washed! We relieved the stress by going for an ice cold swim in the nearby bay. BRRRRR! A slightly warmer swim in the hotel pool followed.
Tuesday 20 May 2008 It was to be our last day of diving but we canned it because the weather in the morning was miserable. It POURED with rain and the winds were so strong. However the weather did improve by late morning and it turned into a lovely sunny day.
Michael went for a long run u the hill to the flagstaff, past the dive centre, through the backstreets of town to the main shipyard & slipway, then back to the hotel along the waterfront. A swim in the hotel pool followed.
After lunch we walked down
to the dive shop to say goodbye and sign off to return our gear. We then started following the dirt road up the hill to Vela Spila - the big cave on the hill. The heat, the distance, the misleading broken signs and the the WASPS were too much so we turned back and walked back to town for a refreshing Gelato.
That afternoon another storm came through so we went downstairs for dinner and tried to consume $50AUD worth of food and beer but unfortunately the rules were changed due to a tour group coming through and our consumption was regulated.
Wednesday 21 May 2008 After a hearty breakfast we checked out of the hotel and caught a 50HRK taxi to town for the morning bus back to Korcula Town.
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