BL #17: Croatian Three-Peat

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Geo: 42.6537, 18.0948

Though we've always done it separately, today marks a milestone for us - it's the third time that we have each been to Croatia! While I'm not as obsessed with any one place as Benita is with Croatia, I do agree that it is one of the most beautiful places on Earth, and can see why she likes it so much. And no, Spain doesn't count for me when it comes to obsessions! I only go there just to help out the poor nation's ailing economy, not because I'm obsessed with it! Yes, that's the only reason why ...

While we were excited to fly off to Dubrovnik today, our anticipation and excitement were both tempered by a sobering statement made by the Captain as he welcomed us aboard, and briefly talked about our journey. Though our flight path normally would take us over Ukraine, we would completely avoid Ukrainian airspace today, for precautionary reasons after Malaysian Airlines Flight 17 was shot down just a few days ago. A sad sign of the times ...

Having never done it before, flying into Dubrovnik was a neat experience for both of us, especially on a sunny day like today, when the Adriatic was glittering under the hot Balkan sun, and Croatia's iconic red roof tiles were positively glowing as we glided above. Croatia's Adriatic coast is truly a sight to behold, an incredible and unforgettable mosaic of sun, sea, palm trees, and limestone architecture.

It's almost as if someone took some of the most beautiful things on Earth, and expertly and artistically combined them, creating something magnificent beyond comprehension. But in all honesty, it simply isn't possible for anyone to paint a picture more beautiful than Dubrovnik, let alone even conceive of one. There is always a fear that returning to a place like Dubrovnik will only end in unfulfilled expectations, as it can't possibly be as incredible as you once remembered - but luckily for us, Dubrovnik never seems to disappoint.

As our flight slowly descended into Croatia, I smirked to myself as I realized something amusing - you're supposed to go up and not down, in order to find something as Heavenly as this ...

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Photos

Three Cheers For the Three-Peat ...
... at Buza, the most beautiful little hole-in-the-wall anywhere in the World - in fact, Buza actually means hole-in-the-wall! There is actually a second Buza in Dubrovnik run by different people, but it's more upscale and with more of a contemporary cocktail lounge kind of vibe - we much prefer this one, which is more laid back and chill. Having a drink here is a must anytime you are in Dubrovnik, and a perfect way to celebrate the Three-Peat and kick off the Croatian leg of the tour.

View From Buza ...
... as much as we might try with both pictures and words, it's impossible to describe how beautiful the Adriatic Sea and the Croatian coastline are. Truthfully, this picture looks pretty blah - but the experience is completely different in person.

Dinner at Konoba Pupo ...
... the famous Ston Bay oysters and an octopus risotto. The oysters were a tad metallic and while good, didn't live up to the claim of locals that these are the best oysters in the World. We shall know for sure tomorrow when we visit Ston and have them at their source - Ston is still a good hour away from Dubrovnik, so it's not exactly as if these came straight out of the water. The octopus was super tender, but the rice a bit hard.

Ston Bay Mussels, Dubrovnik-Style ...
... with tomato, white wine, and Mediterranean spices. The quality of the mussels was quite good and overall fairly tasty, but visually unappealing because the mussel shells weren't cleaned at all, leaving barnacles and the like for our viewing pleasure. We had mussels a few times here in the Dubrovnik area, and it seems common that nobody cleans the shells. The pasta dish was tagliatelle with mushrooms and black Istrian truffles in a cream sauce - good flavours, but perhaps a bit too rich for a balmy evening like this. Overall, a decent meal, but a sign of things to come in Dubrovnik - based on Tripadvisor, Pupo is one of the top places in town, yet it wasn't anything special. This is what happens in the touristy Old Town, where the price-to-quality ratio isn't great - but the atmosphere and views are spectacular, however, still making it all worthwhile.

Better Than Pupo's Food ...
... is their second location, a pastry shop! We were quite full from dinner, but couldn't resist a slice of their Ferrero Rocher cake - a very rich and good take on the famous chocolates. Also better than the food was the re-introduction to Croatian wines, with a bit of red in the Plavac Miljas, and a bit of white in the Zlahtina Toljanic.

Canadian-Style Breakfast in Croatia ...
... having purchased some maple syrup for somebody in Copenhagen as a gift, and unable to meet with them, now was the time to take advantage and have it with some french toast, along with some tasty pan-fried Croatian salami.