Dubrovnik

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We woke in Split finally to rain (it was never going to last I suppose!), and the clothes we had washed previously in our cold little room were still very much damp. So on decamping to the car to drive to Dubrovnik there was various (I'll leave it to your imagination) garments hung (I use the term loosely) around the car!!! What a sight my little car must have looked! The aim was to contiune down the coast road to Dubrovnik and this we nearly achieved. The views had become even more dramatic and the sea an even more wonderful colour. We drove past Hvar, Brac and Korcula Islands and through little towns and harbours, and despite the rain it was still awesome views. Then it had to happen, the best laid plans of mice and men ... we hit a diversion. And my what a diversion we hit! The only conclusion we can come to is that further on down the road there has been a landslide or somthing of that nature. The diversion took us upto Metrovic, right on the Bosnia border. No great shakes there, except that the green card for the insurance hadn't included Bosnia! We had been making good time until we hit this diversion. The road that we followed really was nothing more than a wide english country lane, that snaked up into the mountains. On this road were lorries of all sizes, cars, coaches, tractors - oh everything!!! This meant as you can imagine a very long and tiresome diversion that took several hours to get through before we returned back onto the coast road. We were forced at Metrovic to have a break for coffee it had got that bad. But at this point we joined the road for Mostar and literally all the traffic disappeard in that direction - phew! On returning to the coast road it brightened a little and we drove down to yet another sleepy little harbour and had lunch, before the rain returned. En route to Dubrovnik you do have to go through Bosnia probably for all of a fifteen minute drive. At the point of entering Bosnia (don't tell my insurers!), if you look right across to Korcula Island (I think) you will notice one very large Croatian flag painted onto the hillside, which inturn faces a Bosnian Village - we will leave it at that!!!! And then finally round the corner comes a very large bridge and Dubrovnik to greet you. What you actually see to start with is the new port area of Gruz and La Pad. If we had stayed on the orignal road this takes you high of Dubrovnik itself and gives wonderful views down onto the Old Town. We headed into La Pad and found a Youth Hostel to stay in!

This was and is a proper Youth Hostel and we were in bunk beds!!! We took our linen upto the room and at the end of our stay had to return it!!! We strung a washing line up and managed to dry the rest of our clothes and finally the sun shone through! We decided whilst we were stuck in the diversion to investigate the cost of returning upto northern croatia by ferry so headed down to the ferry terminal. It was closed!!! Ha Ha apparently due to the fact it is still considered the winter season. Well with the rain that had now returned and thunder that had decided to join the party, I quite agreed with them! We had thought of going into the old town to see it initially by night, but we were tired and a little bit down so decided to stop in the hostel and have our goulash (remember it??) for tea. Boy how disgusting was it, we had put some veg and pasta into to it, to make it more of a meal, but that failed. We picked at it but could do little more!! And we had two more cans of it in the car!!! In the end it was consigned to the bin and we decided to find a bar to wash the taste away!!! We ordered with the drinks Chocolate Pancakes, which turned out to be Chocolate with some pancakes thrown in for good measure. Now you all know what a chocoholic I am, but wait for it ..... I couldn't finish them ..... it was way too much ..... quick contact the BBC I failed to finish something that had chocolate in it!!!! But a least it tasted infinately better than the Goulash (which were thinking of secreting the last two tins onto a tesco shelf somewhere in the UK - hee hee - sssshhhhhh!!!).

The next morning we woke to glorious sunshine and walked back down to the ferry terminal. The price was approx £100's for a twenty two hour crossing upto Rijeka on the northern coast of Croatia. The deal was sealed we really didn't fancy that diversion at all. The ferry didn't leave until Sunday which gave us an extra day in Dubrovnik. We caught the bus then to the Old Town and entered at the Pile Gate. It took me an age just to get through this bit, not because of the ensuing tourist parties but that there was already so much to look at. There is work currently being carried out to restore the medieval bridge into the Old Town which is definatley worth stopping and having a look at. At the entrance is a map showing all the areas in the Old Town that were damaged in the war and this covers fire, bombing (direct hit) and shrapnel. Once through the gate, I turned round to marvel at the weights that open and close the doors. At this point you are at the top of the promenade which runs all the way to the Clock Tower. To our left was the Franciscan Monastery and to our right was the Onofrio Fountain. Ok so you can imagine we were just 'wow look at this, that etc etc'. We had a look into the Pharmacy which is the third oldest working in Europe and stumbled on the Synagogue which is the second oldest in Europe! We were entranced by the alleyways, the buildings, the architecture ... everything! We took a walk along the city walls (a definate must do) and it got even better. The views over the sea, the town the mountains are just magnificent and unforgettable. This is yet another living and breathing town and it relishes it. From the walls you can see all the new rooves on the houses and buildings. You can see some old ones but there are few left. All credit to everyone involved for the work that has been done to put this fine old town back to its rightful glory. We spent the whole day and I mean the whole day wandering around taking in this beautiful place and finally wandered back to our hostel foot sore and tired but very happy!!

Our next day saw us driving down to Catvat just south of Dubrovnik. Another beautiful little village. We had breakfast at the harbourside (again!) and then walked around the peninsula and back to the harbour - a leisurley stroll that took about an hour. We marvelled at how clear the water was and watched many fish, starfish and crabs in the water. We drove right down to the Montenegro Border and I spied Hoopoes (check your bird books out!), which I got quite excited about!!! The countryside is typically greek! Again lunch was in a sleepy fishing village! On our return to Dubrovnik (on the previous mentioned high road), we discovered a little road that rose high into the hills above Dubrovnik - well it had to be followed!!! We discovered the most outstanding views of Dubrovnik yet and we just sat there trying to take it all in. Right at the top of the hill is a Napoleonic Fort which was bombed heavily during the war (later described by a Croat as 'unsuccesfully bombed') and the remains of a cable car station. Also about are memorials to the soldiers that fell here during the war, which believe me were quite a lot, and when you see their ages, saddens greatly.

For this evening we hadn't any accommodation (the youth hostel was full!), so we decided to hunt a room down in the area of the ferry as we had to be up early in the morning. On finding some accommodation, I duly decamped to check out the place. As I put my hand on the gate, I heard a voice calling me ....!!!!! I finally found the voice and a comdey sketch played out!!! An elderly lady was calling 'room' to me, and I was saying 'yes room' to her and trying to walk into the house where the rooms were, thinking that she was the owner of the house! But oh no, oh no no no, she was not the owner, she was someone completley different and on negotiating rates etc she hitched a lift in our car and showed us to an apartment, leaving the original owner, looking out from her window in amazement - and us giggling mightly!!! Well you can't knock enterprise can you!!! Our apartment was certainley worth being poached for and we enjoyed elevated views and a lovely sunset over Gruz.

So that was Dubrovnik for you, and a highly recommended place to visit for anyone. The next blog will take us on the ferry to Rijeka, Bled and Merano!!! Watch this space!!!

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Photos

Dubrovnik
Surreal Boat Colours!

Dubrovnik
Weights

Dubrovnik
Streetlife

Dubrovnik
Canon Balls?!

Dubrovnik
Old Rooves

Dubrovnik
washing day!

Dubrovnik
old roof!

Dubrovnik
old and new