Zagreb and Not Belgrade

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Well. I haven't blogged in a long time. In fact, I wouldn't consider previous attempts "blogs". Pities or plights, perhaps; not blogs. Nevertheless, I'm a student of English and aspiring author so I'll post this for a laugh (at my expense) because It's not really about anything useful.



We'll call it "My First Blog" or "The Croatian Hard-On"



Let's talk Croatia. What a wonder. What a beautiful place; beautiful people, culture, history, scenery, the list goes on ... If you have never been then I could not recommend it enough. I find it hard to explain to people who ask me "Why Croatia?", "Why Croatia again"? I think for Irish people, backpackers passing through and package holidays to Dubrovnik aside, it's an unusual place to go. Only recently have direct flights become available, and the typical Irish holiday of a 'week in the sun', or 'a week on the sauce' consisted of a budget flight to a Spanish Island, plenty of liquor, debauchery, bad sunburn and doing absolutely nothing else. The first time I went many moons ago, we drove from Austria; the second time I flew to the coast via the UK - and navigated the rest of the journey by bus. This time, we flew to Germany and took a connecting flight to Zagreb. Zagreb lacks the simplicity of a direct flight from Ireland, which I presume is a deterrent to people who are looking for the usual summer holiday - but it makes up in so many other ways. This still doesn't answer the question of "Why Croatia?". It's a difficult question and it has a difficult answer and I can't definitively say why because I don't know the answer. I could list a number of endearments, and it still wouldn't be explicit. Inexplicable fascination.



<em style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">" We men are fascinated by the things we don't really understand. It gives us something to think and talk about: like females, they drive us nuts." Criss Jami.



This article is about my third and most recent trip to Croatia. My first, was a coastal holiday to a beautiful island called Rab. Second, a magical excursion to east Croatia. This trip was centred around the Capital ; Zagreb.



Visiting Croatia this time was a matter of failure per se more than anything else. I was approached by a friend to visit the Balkans, it's on his list; and I was more than happy to oblige. It was on my mind to return to the place anyway. We planned and priced - but the trip fell through on my friends behalf. Financial restraints and work commitments. Fortunately I am in a position of employment that is fairly generous with leave, and flexible with dates, of which I had already booked. So, I approached another friend about taking a holiday. Boom, we were going on a sun holiday, the typical type I spoke of. Beer and sun - on a Spanish Island. Funnily, or in hindsight fortunately, it was extortionately expensive with the couple weeks notice we had. Prices were starting at e800 - for a week's self catering package! 800 me hoop! I suggested Zagreb having previously priced flights and accommodation at little over e400. Within a couple of days we were booked up and looking forward. The intention was, to do an equal amount of sightseeing and an equal amount of drinking. In hindsight, I would refer to our "intentions" as delusions, as the eventual outcome was always inevitable. We are a destructive pair, self-destructive, and with 8 days of freedom - reasonable prices and a pocket full of strange cash thanks to the kind exchange rate, we were on "the pigs back all lathered in sauce", or simply put - on our way.



If you are reading this (if anyone does) for travel tips, sights, places to visit then forget about it. This has very little information about such - this is more of a blur. At best, this might point you towards some decent pubs to visit, as I couldn't find many during my pre trip research. Ironically, I was most well informed throughout the trip by a wonderful Croatian person, who is one of the most friendliest individuals I have ever had the pleasure of meeting, who answered all my questions, while also offering suggestions at things to do - places to see etc. Hat tip to them for that ... After all, such things were the intention, for most days. Unfortunately we didn't do most of these things, which I regretted at the end of the trip, because not only did I miss out but I also felt rather ungrateful after all the help.



Anyway, we arrived during a Wednesday lunchtime - and even though I was told how to and where to get the bus by above mentioned person, we impatiently got a taxi. Hilariously we got ripped off, although we didn't realise it until the trip back for the flight home. Taxi from the airport on arrival cost 220 Kuna (plus a grateful tip, due to the ease of travel). Taxi back to airport cost 120 Kuna. Motherfu**er, that's like 15 yoyo's - which isn't much, but in taxi fare terms its quite a lot! So, there's a tip - listen to the local people or organise your taxi through the place you are staying.



We arrived at our hostel on the main street which was a 5 minute walk to the main square; Ban Jelacic Square. There's a big statue of a cool looking lad up on a horse, it's awesome - forgot to take a photo. This area is where I would suggest staying as its central. We hit the beers straight away in the lounge, washed up and headed out not long after, had a mighty seafood dinner for half nothing. It was the kind of fancy place you'd bring your missus too on her birthday if you wanted a service afterwards. Strangely, this night did not descend into chaos like most of the holiday and we retired not long after midnight. The idea was to get up early the following day, have a look about and check a few sights out. Didn't happen. I'm going to point out now that I have come to learn that hostels can be strange places, with strange people, and obviously not everyone speaks the same language. I had said a few "hello's" to others staying in the hostel on arrival day, just passing by niceties, not necessarily looking for conversation - us Irish are a friendly folk - and I was a few times ignored. No problem, language barrier - a want to be alone - maybe we look intimidating or unsavoury - who knows. Anyway, we woke on day 2 to a newcomer who looked like a malnourished Viking. He was opposite our bunk and staring at us over his breakfast in bed. Strange. After the previous days experience I decided to ignore him than say hello. We went down for a coffee in the lounge. Then the Viking approached us and introduced himself as an American fellow from Alaska. We invited him to join us and we spent most of the day drinking coffee and talking. Apparently this is similar to a typical Croatian day, so I was told anyway ... It turned out the American was as sound as a bell, and not a Viking or in any way like what I thought he would be from my first impression. We became a trio then for the entire holiday; it was as if he had came from home with us.



To be honest, many of the nights have become a bit muddled and there's simply too much - for something short of a conversation - to write down but I'll mention some stand out memories. We hit up a live music bar we found on the internet called Route 66. It was a good 30 minute walk from the city centre, and was situated in a residential area. I can't see many tourists visiting this place. There was no live music, the jukebox was broken and the pool table was the worst I have ever encountered, but the beer was flowing and the atmosphere was good. A few beers and a number of games of pool in we were approached by 2 locals who wanted to play pool against us, but who couldn't speak English. And we can't speak Croatian. However, it went hilariously, despite the language barrier. Cave man communication with beer and rakija. We beat them at pool and we all got smashed. There was an arm wrestle challenge issued by one of the local lads (names forgotten) - I don't know is this a local display of something - but we won at this too. Amongst the laughter we were asked to leave by the bar woman, because we were too loud or because she was closing I am not sure; there was not many others left at this stage. Regardless, we got her to take some embarrassing photos of us all before leaving. This bar is awesome - would definitely recommend it - and it would probably be a lot better if you catch it with a night of music - or make your own fun. We got a taxi from this place into a late bar called Alcatraz - awesome spot, another recommendation (after this night we ended up here a few times - top dj - he'll play all your requests too). One of the local guys jumped into the taxi with us, even though he could barely stand at this stage while the other went home. He had an argument with the taxi driver, for apparently bringing us the long way and trying to overcharge us. Croatian taxi drivers eh? In the bar, the local guy stood on a big piece of glass badly lacerating his foot, took of his shoe and got blood everywhere. EVERYWHERE. He then took his clothes off (no idea why) and was getting chucked out until we intervened and convinced the manager that he was alright. How, I don't know - maybe because we were tourists. Some of the other people we spoke with were telling us that we should get away from this guy because he was being rude to people and that he'd get in trouble. Truth be told, we almost got into a fight outside the bar upon closing time over him. Apparently the locals frowned upon his sorry state and the things he was saying to others, of which we couldn't understand. This was the only moment of hostility throughout the entire holiday and over a local person, comically. But he was with our group at this stage so it was only right we try and defend him. We were followed after leaving by some men from the bar, but not being shy of a scrap ourselves, our pursuers left once we confronted them. Stupid chip shop behaviour and I don't condone it. Practically everyone else were entirely welcoming and friendly throughout the trip. In fact we were invited back to a couple of bars and parties on other nights by a number of different people but we never obliged as we were too set on adventuring ourselves. Except for karaoke night - we were invited by a few local ladies to karaoke on another night, it was smashing. Our singing was shocking, and that's being generous. I sang some Croatian folk songs with some local people, without a clue of what I was saying or how to pronounce half the words but it went down a laugh. Another awesome bar, Rock Club (I think), 2 minutes from city centre, karaoke three nights a week. Definitely worth a look.



We changed hostel 4 nights into the trip. We had only booked 4 nights in Zagreb, as the plan was to travel to Belgrade in Serbia for the next 4 nights. However we were enjoying ourselves so much, enjoying the city, the company of our new friends, and had not seen the sights we wanted to see, we decided to stay. We changed hostel because of our late nights. I was actually confronted by a guest because we were "too loud" the previous night, or so she said. I'm a very respectable person and wouldn't disrupt anyone intentionally, but we got a feeling from the hostel that the 5-6 am arrivals, as quiet as we were, were not appreciated. We weren't asked to leave but we thought it better, so we went to a more laid back - late nights are ok hostel. Chillout Hostel - awesome place and it was closer to the city centre. Another recommendation.

Anyway, we jumped on the hostel pub crawl which was excellent, went to some great bars, the names of which I mostly can't remember. But I'd suggest a pub crawl to anyone to get a feel for the place. This particular night was over the top. We were the last ones left in the final place they took us too, and we got absolutely flutered. We drink a lot in Ireland, I can drink a lot, my friend can drink a lot. Like a lot a lot. Annnnd to drink too much is a difficult feat, but we done it. Such situations are as rare as an eclipse. To drink oneself into such a stupor but we done it. Some excellent photos and videos but it would be inappropriate to share publicly. We also happened to be dressed in full 3 piece suits this night, purchased for drinking in as if it's a normal thing to do - while staying in a ten quid a night hostel. Anyway, we done some silly sh*t that I won't write about - nothing offensive or abusive mind you, and woke up thinking WHAAAAAT , but it was an awesome night nonetheless, wouldn't change it for anything. Suffered the next day big shtyle!



Great place for a session. If you're thinking of going, but are worried is it the kind of place to go with your mates for the type of holiday ours turned into - because I didn't find much suggesting it was before we went - it absolutely is.



Another trip planned for February with the original person I was supposed to travel with, but this time for a month. This time, Croatia - Slovenia - Bosnia - Serbia and Macedonia. I want to see what I wanted to see. Travelling to Japan in May for 3 weeks, and Hungary in June for a 2 weeks. As Shane McGowan sang "And a rovin' a rovin' a rovin' I'll go." Can't wait. Not long back from Singapore either, so I must finish my piece on that and post it.



Thanks for reading!



Hvala.

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