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Mountains
In the background of the city. Travis and I decided to diversify our explorations, and so while he flew to Cairo to see the pyramids, I took a bus to Sofia. Once again we went through customs at the border between Turkey and Bulgaria. This time our luggage was x-rayed as we passed through the Turkish side. After a stop at the duty-free mall we proceeded through the Bulgarian side. However, one of the border guards became irate and made us all get off the bus for another luggage check. I asked some of the other passengers what was going on. Apparently everyone had bought cartons of cigarettes at the duty-free mall, and the border guards were only allowing 2 packs per person. However, after laying out my backpack, unzipped, for about half an hour, we were told to load back into the bus without any check. At this point I’m a little confused, but I suspect someone got paid off. We left the border checkpoint and starting back on our route towards Sofia. At the first rest stop in Bulgaria, I got back on the bus in time to see the bus driver and the stewardess shuffling around a whole bunch of cigarette cartons, as if
Sofia
Statue high up on a pillar they had hidden them somewhere on the bus during the cross. I found the whole episode to be quite comical really. I arrived at the hostel in the heart of Sofia just in time for dinner. Yes, the hostel not only served breakfast every morning, but a bowl of spaghetti every night complete with a glass of beer. The hostel community was very friendly, and I met a lot of different people during my stay.
The first day I walked around the city center to see the different sights. Towards the very center you can find a cathedral, a synagogue, and a mosque all right next to each other. The roads in this area are made of gold-colored brick. North of the center is an open marketplace where you can buy anything from fresh fruit to clothing. To the east is the Cathedral Aleksander, the largest cathedral in Sofia. Before you get to the cathedral, however, there is a park with a flea market. The flea market had quite a range of items available. Some stands displayed artwork for sale, while others resembled a garage sale. I saw some old albums featuring the Beatles and other popular bands. Old
Soviet Union and Nazi relics such as flasks, cigarette holders, military hats, gas masks, and other random artifacts were on sale too. A park south of the Cathedral Aleksander surrounded a stadium. Another park at the southern end of the center of the city surrounded the cultural museum. A war memorial stood along the path around the perimeter of the park. Towards the north end of this park, a temporary white well wrapped around what looked like a monument under restoration. The wall was absolutely covered in graffiti. I was told a new white wall was erected every year to provide a place for graffiti. The mountains could be seen in the distance behind the city from virtually anywhere. The snowcaps reminded me of Colorado.
My last day I took a day trip with about 7 others to the Rila Monastery, which was a couple hours away in the mountains. The trip was arranged by the hostel, and they ordered taxis for the ride out. I had a conversation with a couple Canadians on the way out there who had just finished studying abroad. We initially passed the monastery and parked at the foot of some trails into the
mountains. The guide took us on a trail that led to a small cave. The founder of the monastery had lived in this small cave for 7 years alone. A small candle-lit memorial was inside the cave. The trail led further up the mountain side for a great view. From one vantage point I could see down the mountainside to the valley and up the next mountain side. The near mountains were a tree-covered green while snow-capped mountains could be seen in the distance. The trail was not long, and we loaded back up to visit the monastery itself shortly after.
The monastery was a compound of living spaces stacked 4 stories high and surrounding a cathedral in the middle. The cathedral was painted with murals on all the outer walls and even underneath the outside canopy covering the porch. The murals were brightly colored suggesting extensive and recent restoration. Women were required to cover their shoulders upon entry into the cathedral. The inside of the cathedral was small, but lavishly decorated. A large area of the wall behind the altar was completely golden, and featured figures and inscriptions carved into the gold. Outside the cathedral, but inside the
Cathedral
Near the Synagogue and Mosque monastery held views of the mountain tops rising above the monastery walls. I can see why they like it there. A small stand just outside the monastery was selling, of all things, donuts. Delicious donuts freshly deep fried were sold in boxes and covered in a syrup of your choice for about a dollar. The ride home went by much faster because we all fell asleep.
That night I followed the crowd to the Rock and Roller bar. This bar was filled with travelers and locals drinking and dancing to a DJ playing mostly 80’s rock. Bon Jovi, Metallica, and Guns N Roses were among the most popular songs played. One particularly intoxicated Bulgarian was pouring vodka in everyone’s beer. I tried to take some pictures, but the vodka was making it hard to get everyone to focus for a second. It was a great way to spend the last night.
Sofia is a smaller city, but the existence of the big 3 religions all in the same place and the mountains in the background overlooking the city give it a lot of character. While talking to people at the hostel, I heard many talking about confusing the
Mosque
Near the Synagogue and the Cathedral locals when it came to head nods and shakes. Apparently Bulgarians shake their heads side-to-side to indicate an affirmation, and nod their heads up and down to say no, or otherwise indicate negation or dissatisfaction. I didn’t have this experience personally, but it really surprised me. I would have found it unbelievable had I not heard it from so many. I thought head nods and shakes were universal just like facial expressions. There is lots to do at night in Sofia. Many of the clubs charge cover, but the beers are less than a dollar once you get in. I guess I didn’t find much in Sofia that makes me want to revisit, but I had a great time while I was there.
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