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Published: July 26th 2004
Postcard from Nesebar
A photo I took that resembles closely postcards that can be found on the streets.
Sounds exotic, Nesebar
, roll the sounds around and it could be in Moroco, or just round the corner from Timbuktu. In fact Nesebar is located on an island with a narrow causeway linking it to the mainland, and the wonderfully named 'Sunny Beach'. We knew that this world heritage site would be popular with day trippers so deliberatly aimed to make our day trip a later one.
Buses run every half hour from 7am till 9pm both ways from Burgas, so not a problem there.
First impression: Tourist crazy - so man, throngs, herds, hordes, stampedes, plagues, what is the collective noun for tourist? I guess that I'm just part of this collective group but feel that there are a few major differences between the traveller and the holiday maker. Holiday maker: has very limited time, relatively unlimited budget. Traveller: has relatively unlimited time, very limited budget. Both groups seek to trade money for time and percieved enjoyment... ok I digress, back to Nessebar.
The town has a long history, 7,000 years of continuous occupation, somehow escaping destruction by successive invaders and occupations, only to be severly damaged by earthquakes, and losing half it area to the black
Originally built 6th C. Rebuilt 9th C. Destroyed in the 12th C. by Venetiens.
sea about 2,000 years ago. The archeology mueseum has exhibits and objects from all these periods, all labelled in English and Bulgarian, and more extensive information on the history only in Bulgarian! (Really a photocopied school boy translation would make a world of difference)
Many churches are scatted kiberally over the island, though only one still functions, and only a few are open, several have been converted into art galleries, which I think is a good use, rather than letting them fall into ruin or be locked up.
Away from the town gates and tour buses at the east end of the town the throngs relax and it is possible to find a few quiet streets and a cafe or two. Down at the docks fresh fish is offered fried in little buffets, little fish fried head, tail, guts and all, they were delicious and relived a childhood memory for Sara who'd been to Bulgaria when she was six.
Towards dark the crowds eased, buses to 'Sunny Beach' were crammed so full that doors wouldn't close, our bus back to Burgas was pleasantly uncrowded, I think we chose the best option using Burgas as a base for
a few days.
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