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Published: October 1st 2006
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Sarajevo street
When we arrived in Sarajevo the city looked dark and a little threatening. But it is a really nice place. Loads of places to sit out and take a coffee and watch the world go by. If you are hungry try a Burek. Meat wraped in pastry. After eating one you needn't eat again for about a week. Hello all,
So Bosnia. What a country. Or should I say countries? On the train from Zagreb to Sarajevo we passed through the northern part of the coutry and then headed south by bus through Mostar to Croatia.
The geography is so different. The north is really green. Many fields, all growing corn by the looks of things, with the very occasional forested hill standing out. I would say it wasnt so much different from the south of Slovenia except Bosnia is more wild. It gives the impression that if the people were to leave tommorow it wouldnt take nature long to come and reclaim the land. The south, from Sarajevo, is much drier and the trees are slender and grow from the steep rocky mountains that are huge. Towering over wide flat valleys, like Mostar, or falling vertically down to mountain rivers that have cut into the rock over many years. I would say it reminds me of Greece but since I have never been to Greece. Suffice to say it is how I imagine Greece would or perhaps should look like. Dare say I will now be a tad disappointed when I do finally arrive there. It
Latin bridge
The Latin bridge is where in 1914 Gabriel Princip shot dead the Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Leading to the first world war and later to British rock bands. is quite frankly beautiful and a hikers dream. I must return with my boots. I can see how the land makes the country so difficult to control and be occupied by others. The geography giving the inhabitants a chance to fight back against superior numbers.
I think this has partly led to the Bosnian character. They are a strong people. Reminding me somewhat of the Rif Berber in North Morocco except with one difference. The Rif really welcome outsiders whilst Bosnians stand back from foreigners and are suspicious. I never got to make any friends but I got the impression that, since I am a foreigner, it would not be so easy. This is not a critism just merely my own observation and being someone who likes to speak my mind I do admire others who put directness first. A little more of a welcome attitude would be appreciated for the tourists though. Perhaps it is the recent war. The UN is very much hated here as they did nothing for so long whilst their innocent friends and relatives died. It is a situation we in the rich world cannot begin to fathom. However, I think this cautiousness towards
Above Sarajevo
Me above Sarajevo. Also known as little Istanbul. outsiders have always been there and perhaps the conflict has brought it out of them more.
And what a conflict it was. Everywhere the houses are either new or have new roofs on them. Both Sarajevo and Mostar were literally flattened. Lots has been repaired now but bullet marked ruins still stand next to homes and expensive shops. You can tell it wasnt so long ago. Yesterday I climbed to what looked like an old cafe from before the war that had a great view over Mostar and the approach from Sarajevo. Outside the walls were bullet ridden with some big chunks missing. Whilst the inside had been gutted with man made holes for viewing or perhaps sniping? For sure people died or killed from the place. Thing was, walking back into town I could have easily passed those that once fought there. Like I said it was not long ago.
There has been so much money, rightly so, poured into the country since the war. Although the northern Serb part of the country has benefitted little. This has helped to rebuild peoples lives but it seems to be that the only jobs here are construction or working
Mostar Bridge at night
The bridge which had stood for centuries was destroyed by Croatian forces during the war. Rebuilt it has become a tourist attraction again. During the day men from the Mostar diving club leap off it into the freezing water below. Everything seems back to normal except huge ruins remain just a couple of streets from this the centre of town. in one of the many luxury goods stores. The Bosnian Mark is obviously supported by the E.U., it is currently 2 to the Euro! Compare that to the Slovenian tollar, the richest part of the former Yugoslavia and inside the E.U., at 240 to the Euro. I dont have a problem with this and like I said because of our inaction in the past it should be done. I just worry about the day when the west decides it has given enough and starts to cut back. I just hope they are ready to stand on their own. I have to say, as always in my humble opinion, currently they are not; and if the backing was to withdrawnquickly mass unemployment and potential conflict would follow. Lets try not to mess this one up again ok guys?
It would be a shame as Sarajevo is a great city. A place that has its own vibe, an edge, a place that reminds you of absolutely nowhere else. Very few cities have given me this feeling. Amsterdam, Rangoon, Santiago to name a few. Sarajevo definately rates up there as one of my favourite cities. Loads of coffee, wonderful surroundings (mountains -
Mosque is Mostar
Moster is in a huge flat valley with the river in the middle. The hills seem really dry and barren but the flat land is green and fertile. Yeah!) and lots of sweet things to eat. Very important. When I return I shall be looking forward to it.
Mostar is also great. Very touristy during the day. At night the locals come out to play. It was nice to drink coffee last night watching the world go by. Apparently they have loads of nightclubs and bars as well but since I had to be up at 6am I used it as, yet another excuse, to chicken out. Why up so early? Because I am now in Dubrovnik in Croatia. The weather is great and am about to have a light lunch I feel. Oh the life. But Croatia another time. This post is Bosnia. A battered new land still finding its feet but with so much to offer. People go to Prague and Budapest all the time. Why the hell not Sarajevo and Bosnia. Take my word for it. You will not regret it.
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