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Published: September 18th 2020
Brussels
Brussel-Centraal
After a short night in Paris we rose early to board the Eurail for Antwerp and then 24 hours in Amsterdam. We had reservations for a noon tour in Antwerp so plenty of time to explore the city on our own until then.
Great plan! Except for this girl here didn't look close enough at our station and got off in Brussels instead of Antwerp. Oops.
By the time we figured out the mess we were in we had discovered so many awesome things in this city! And its an easy fix right since we can take the next train to Antwerp.
So we hopped on and spent the afternoon exploring Antwerp. We made our tour and had a great time exploring the city. We started in Grote Market and wandered the streets learning about the colorful history. We toured Saint Carolus Borromeus Church that dates back to the 1600's. We wandered down alleys that came out at great beer halls and cute café's. This city is majestic and so quaint and feels very old world, but actually boasts one of the most multi-cultural and diverse populations in the world, second only to Amsterdam, and is home to
Brussels
Entering the city center is like entering a whole other world altogether. at least 168 different nationalities in its population of about 1.2 million people.
?It is a major center of trade and culture within Belgium, and one of the diamond capitals of the world. Very impressive!
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City Hall, in the center of Grote Market was built in the 1500's and incorporates both Flemish and Italian influences in the Renaissance building (it is also one of the first examples of Renaissance architecture in the Low Countries. The facade flies the flags of the 28 countries of the European Union along with flags of the countries that have a consulate in Antwerp.
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Vlaeykensgang Alley is the most incredible little alley tucked in next to the Cathedral. Look there for some fine dining and beautiful scenes. It is like a step back in time with its quiet courtyards...it feels like a 15th century oasis right in the heart of the city. Previously the street was the woman of shoemakers and house some of the poorest in the city. You will now find antique shops, art galleries
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Saint Carolus Borromeus Church is beautiful and has a fascinating history.
▪️It was built in 1626 as the Jesuit Church of Antwerpen. It
was the first church in the world to be dedicated to the Jesuit founder, Ignatius Loyola.
▪️In 1617-1618 Peter Paul Rubens painted two altarpieces. He was also commissioned to paint the ceiling pieces, which were lost to fire in 1718.
▪️While the lavish decorations of the restoration were well received, the Pope was forced to send a letter telling them they were over budget and should cease spending money.
▪️It was closed in 1773.
▪️It was rededicated in 1779 to Saint Charles Borromeo and remains a church parish today.
▪️A second fire in August of 2009 left the church without pews mainly due to smoke damage.
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And this is my favorite! in late June of 2017 (just weeks before we visited) the painting "The Return of the Holy Family" by Rubens, Antwerp's greatest son, came back to the chapel of St. Joseph near the chancel after a 240-year absence.
?The
Vleeshuis (
Butcher's Hall, or literally Meat House). In the Middle Ages, Antwerp was an economic center of Flanders. This building housed the second Vleeshuis (indoor trade market) built to enable the city to regulate the meat industry by having a central meat market. Because
of that the butchers' guild is considered to be the oldest trade guild in Antwerp. It is now a museum
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Het Steen (
Antwerpen Burcht) is a medieval fortress in the old city centre of Antwerp, one of Europe's biggest ports, built after the Viking incursions in the early Middle Ages as the first stone fortress of Antwerp. It is Antwerp's oldest building and used to be its oldest urban centre. From 1303 to 1827 it was used as a prison. It has also been a museum of archaeology and also housed the museum of Antwerp maritime history until 2011. It is now mostly used as an educational youth center with workshops, activities and a family friendly cafe.
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Elfde Gebod is a great place to stop in for a beer and a meal. The restaurant that is one of the oldest in the city. While the restaurant opened about 40 years ago, the building was built in 1425 and used to serve as office space for The Cathedral of Our Lady. While there you can check out the huge collection of Catholic statues on the walls, corners, everywhere basically. They were originally the first owner's collection, which has grown
Brussels
Grand Place - Grote Market
Huge City center encircled by elegant historic buildings, some dating back to the 14th century. over the years as people have brought their statues to donate and leave there.
Fun fact: The name means 11th Amendment, which legend says is drinking beer.
?Next to The Cathedral of Our Lady is the statue of
Nello and Patrasche. They are characters in the 1872 novel A Dog of Flanders. Nello, a poor orphan boy, becomes friends with Patrasche, an abandoned cart dog. Together they walk the town and often visit The Cathedral and admire the paintings of Rubens. Due to a series of setbacks they die together in The Cathedral from hardship. It is a moving Christmas story for sure.
While these two cities are separated by only 35 miles they are worlds different! I am so glad we got a chance to experience each one.
When we got on the train to head to our last stop of the day Amsterdam we realized our luggage was safely tucked in the lockers back in Brussels. Yikes! ? That could have been a disaster but we were very thankful that the ticketing agents were so knowledgeable and willing to help two seriously silly tourists. Through their determination we were able to retrieve
Brussels
Grand Place - Grote Markt
Hôtel de Ville stands above the square. our luggage in Brussels and board the last train to Amsterdam.
We even arrived before midnight to a city that was just getting started for the night.
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