Belarus: Day 7

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Day 7:

I woke early with Victor coming in to make himself breakfast. It was 6.30 and the sun was just breaking through the morning mist. We had a few hours until Natasha’s parents Lida and Sasha arrived for the day. I was told that I had to try and socialise and therefore I wouldn’t be able to do a big walk later. I therefore had a coffee and juice, filled my water bottle and set out in the dawn light to complete a walk. Kissing Yuliya goodbye I told her I would be back in a couple of hours.

I didn’t have the time for exploration and set out walking along the footpaths alongside the canal system. The morning was lovely but the long grass on either side of the path was covered in dew. My dressing was starting to get wet and the antiseptic was running and a green streak started staining my trainer. I would have to deal with this when I got back. The canals were dotted with men fishing and although I nodded a friendly greeting every time I passed someone, they looked back with blank faces. I’m not used to this as in England when passing strangers, at minimum we are greeted with a friendly hello and at best stop for a chat about the weather or the surroundings. Belarusian strangers have a lot to learn about common curtesy.

As I walk I look at some of the comments that have been left with a couple of questions. Jen asked about the vodka I am drinking and whether it was homemade or shop bought. This time all the vodka has been shop bought but this has not always been the case. When I first came over to Belarus in 2003, after a short stay in Minsk we headed to Bereoza to meet the future in laws and the rest of the family. The family was a lot bigger than compared to now as there have been several deaths in recent years. After an evening with Mum and Dad in their town flat, we headed over to the farm which at the time was the house of Babushka Zoeya. Here I was greeted by an extended family. They had all come to meet this curious Brit and all the men had brought their own home-brewed vodka for me to try. There must have been 5-6 different types of vodka ranging in strength from strong to fucking stupidly like meths. I was presented with shot after shot of this potentially lethal drink. As with all drinking sessions in this country you have a shot and then a bite to eat, and then repeat until someone falls over or passes out. This was my first trip here and therefore the food was certainly challenging to stomach (they now know what foods I like and don’t and I am also more adventurous). The combination of 20 odd shots of vodka and a strange cuisine started to feel very strange and I was luckily saved by Yuliya saying we were going now. After saying my goodbyes and receiving a couple of bottles of home brew to take with us I collapsed into the back of the car, wound down the window and battled the urge to vomit over myself. We headed into town but did not turn towards the flat. Slurring slightly incomprehensible “where we going”. Yuliya replied, “oh we’re going to my Babushka Lyolya’s house to meet my mothers side of the family! You’ll love them they brew their own Cherry Brandy”. This was going to be a very interesting few hours! I leant my head back and looked at the sky hoping that I didn’t leave this family with an image of their new British family
Member vomiting all over their lovingly prepared table of food.

Back to today and the miles passed behind me and as I walked back into the farm I had completed 11kms. I felt good and there was no pain from the wound. I was warmly greeted by Natasha’s parents Sasha and Lida. They hugged me and I apologised for being so sweaty. Sasha gave me a bottle of Vodka and told me to take it home and remember the family and country.

After a quick shower Yuliya, young Dasha, Victor and me made a trip to the supermarket where we proceeded to purchase the usual tonic, vodka, beer and cognac. I am starting to suspect, by the raised eyebrows of the staff, that we are getting a reputation. Even in rural Russia this level of drinking was unprecedented.
We therefore made sure we bought some tango and a couple of bags of crisps to make it look like a weekly shop. Victor gave me an evil look when we insisted on paying the £40 bill. They have done so much for us over the years and to spend a few quid a couple of times whilst we were here should be accepted. This was not always the case. One year I in a drunken state decided to treat the family and went off to the shops and bought excessive amounts of alcohol, chocolate and presents. When I returned everyone treated it as a great insult to the family and refused to accept anything I had bought. Victor didn’t attempt to speak to me for 2 days afterwards.

Back to the farm and I decided that I should attempt a bit of fishing again. Sergey and Sasha joined me and we went off down to the lake. After an hour Sergey was the only one with any success and he had caught 2. I felt like I had opened up a fish restaurant and was basically feeding the fish bread. Sasha and Sergey went back. I was visited by Yuliya and the kids, all stating that I should give up and call it quits. I was determined. An hour later I had matched Sergey’s 2 fish and marched triumphantly back to the farm. Jamie picked out a fish and asked “can I poke its eye out?” I said it would probably be best to wait until it was dead. He then started looking for the cat to feed the still very much alive fish to. Good lad!

Baby Vlad was asleep in the house next door and I was asked to go across and sit with him which would release Tania to come and prepare our banquet tea. Lying in the main bedroom I consider a discussion Yuliya and myself have been having.

This house and its land is up for sale. The house is absolutely liveable but requires some modernising (it still has a well for water and generally no mod cons) it would take a bit of money to put right to put in running water, bathroom etc but it is in the same state that Yuliya’s parents house was in when I first came to Belarus. The biggest selling point is that it comes with about 4 acres of land. The price of the whole property is about £8000. If we could find the money it would be an amazing investment. The land at the back could be built on and overtime and small amounts of investment yearly a modern brick building could be built on this land (you could probably build 3 buildings like this and still have ample land to farm on). This would then be a house for us to use as a summer holiday home and the rest of the year could be used by Victor and Tanya as their house. The whole enterprise would cost a fraction of the cost of a similar investment in the U.K. but would have big rewards if we decided to sell in the future or maybe eventually retire to. Something to think about. If Tania and Victor were open to the idea we would look at finding the money. We will have this discussion with them before the holiday is over.

Lida came to take over and I returned to the smell of the BBQ in full flow. It would be very hard for me not to eat the same amount I had the other night. Especially with the amount of alcohol that was being threatened.

Meat and fish cooked we sit down to dinner. The brandy and the vodka flows. I made a realisation that probably 40% of my liquid intake on this holiday has been vodka. Yuliya said at least I wouldn’t get ill because of the amount of alcohol. Russian logic I guess!!

One thing I have noticed this year. Although there has been a significant decrease in mosquitoes ( typical because I have bought 4 different types of spray, bought 2 different types of anti-mosquito band and for a last resort a mosquito head net that makes me look like a member of ISS). Yes the flies are pissing me right off. They are everywhere, you put a plate of food down and they are shitting on it within seconds. I sit on constant guard with my fly swat. Making it look like a fly massacre. Bodies everywhere. But still they come swarming over us and whatever it is we are drinking or eating. You so get used to them scurrying over your naked flesh, like a warped massage. Actually looking down now there is a dirty little fucker doing the backstroke in my coffee. Honestly couldn’t have timed it better!

There was an argument between Tania and young Dasha . A basic teenage strop. But not taken well and everyone seems to take it out of proportion. It led to an uncomfortable 30 minutes where both mothers ended in tears. We took Tania and Dasha to the lake for a swim to kiss and make it up. I sat on the bank drinking my aforementioned coffee and write my blog whilst watching the sun go down and the thunder heads moving by. We might have a rough night of weather. This is Sergey and Natasha’s last night with us so I expect a few drinks will be consumed. I am going to try for a 15kms walk so I hope it won’t be that rough a night/ morning.

Tania headed off to work and Natasha’s parents were driven the 45 minute drive back home by Victor and young Sasha. We then started to drink. We talked into the night and consumed far too much vodka and went to bed at slightly before midnight. My full intention to finish the blog, but instead I passed out with the phone on my forehead. It was still there this morning when a fly crawling into my open mouth awoke me.

Steve x

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