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Published: November 15th 2010
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Are you sure? Gruss Gott!
As was mentioned in the last blog, we noticed the transition from Italy to Austria as soon as we got on our third and last train for the day – clean, fresh and punctual to the second. The journey from the Austrian-Italian border to Innsbruck proved that the Austria of our imaginings (yes, ok, the Austria from The Sound of Music (TSoM)) did in fact match the Austria of real life – clean, green, mountainous and snowy, complete with chalet-type-houses nestled into the hills. Luckily the train wasn't very full as we looked like complete tourists gawping out the window from one side of the train to the other and pointing at various rivers, bridges, mountains, castles perched atop of hills and suchlike.
Innsbruck was bigger that we had imagined, but still a lovely, hospitable wee town (city?) with a location to die for – it's situated at the convergence of 2 chains of alps and so is surrounded by towering, snow-capped mountains; a hiker's and skiier's paradise (but also bloody cold). We took a funicular (cable car) up to a higher village for some breathtaking views, and were intent on braving the perilous gondola up to
Looking down the River Inn, Innsbruck a much higher mountain-top until we saw the outrageous prices and decided we'd rather eat (and fill our crack pipes) for the next few weeks than see the view further down the valley. Innsbruck also has an intact medieval old town in its centre, which we spent a bit of time exploring, strudel in hand. Much to Drew's delight Austrian strudel isn't just apple and other sweet delights, they do all manner of savoury versions as well – apparently the closest thing he's come to a good pie since leaving home. We also had an 8 bed dorm room to ourselves, which probably increased our fondness for Innsbruck no end. Ah, the joys of the low season.
After Innsbruck we headed off to the (slightly) warmer Salzburg, which I felt like I knew pretty well from watching TSoM so many times. Nope. It was much bigger than it looks in the movie, and it has a massive fortress set on a huge, cliff in the middle of the city. Pretty sure I never saw THAT in the movie! Salzburg is a lovely city, and we explored its large, baroque old town pretty well (when I wasn't hauling Drew around
Golden Roof, Innsbruck locations from TSoM and spending too much time taking millions of photos from obscure angles in the hopes of channelling Fraulien Maria). People (I say people, really I mean both mums (hi mums)) had asked us if the hills were indeed alive with the sound of music? No, sadly not, unless you count our poor attempts (I know all the words but can't carry a tune, while Drew only knows about one word in five but can mumble a melody).
After 2 nights in our Salzburg hostel, which had no character and rude staff but the best breakfast ever, we made our way to the nation's capital, Vienna. We didn't actually end up doing that much in Vienna, as it rained quite a bit, but our impression was of a beautiful old city with wide streets and a penchant for music. We went to a few churches (when in Europe...) and to a palace, but the highlight for us was definitely the Music Museum – 5 floors of incredible interactive exhibits and displays. We made a song of environmental sounds, wrote a Vienna (Viennese?) waltz with dice, learnt about the mechanics of sound and conducted the Vienna philharmonic orchestra.
View of Innsbruck/alps from Hungerburg It was also blessedly free of giggling school kids, which is a bonus in any museum. The food was also awesome in Austria, the meals at the place recommended by our hostel in Vienna were so huge that we split them and still couldn't eat it all! Pretty sure they thought we were just really cheap.
Although Vienna seemed amicable, the highlight for me was definitely when Drew came scuttling back from the showers and told me about the ordeal he'd just had... he decided to take a risk and use one of the much nicer girls' showers at the hostel (just a bathroom with a shower and a couple of sinks). Despite the door not locking, Drew thought he'd be fine. Wrong. A girl came in to the bathroom to use the sink, and Drew spent the next 5-10 minutes huddled in the corner of the shower, cupping himself, unmoving, and praying that the girl wouldn't open the shower curtain or start stripping or defecating. When she finally left, Drew chucked his clothes on (no time to dry off) and high tailed it out of there, but not before back-tracking to the boys' showers to make it look
View of Innsbruck from Hungerburg like he'd used them.
Austria seemed to us to be clean, efficient, friendly, peaceful and beautiful. We love Austria. We want to live amongst the snow and edelweiss, drinking red wine and eating crisp apple strudels and schnitzel with noodles (watching wild geese that fly with the moon on their wings). We're now in Germany, where we have 3 nights in Munich and 3 in Berlin before concluding our continental adventures and heading to Edinburgh.
Can't upload photos on this dodgy internet connection so will do so at a later date. Also sorry this blog's a bit lame, loved Austria but it didn't inspire me to be a witty correspondent. Fresh out of jokes for you too.
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