Crypt-astic (or: Museums rock!)


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July 23rd 2010
Published: July 25th 2010
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KaisergruftKaisergruftKaisergruft

(The imperial crypt)
I know you don't need a running commentary on my health, really, but today's the best I've felt in a while. I think I've only blown my nose a handful of times _all_ day. Woot!

Anywho, decided to head in the general direction of the Imperial Palace complex and go from there. Mostly because I'd done a bit of research and discovered that there is an imperial burial vault as part of the complex (yes. another cemetery. Quel surprise, I'm sure). To my dismay, it didn't open until 10, and it was only 9:45, so I wandered to St Stephen's cathedral, and took a few pictures of the outside. Couldn't find my way in, but wasn't really feeling the need to go in anyway. In the meantime, a sign pointed me to Mozart's house, and I got there just after 10, just in time to be third through the door. Tip: if you've done the ones in Salzburg, you've pretty much done the one in Vienna and vice versa, but it was still an interesting and informative stop.

Next stop was the Kaisergruft (sp?), the Imperial Crypt. It's essentially in the basement of a church belonging to Capuchin friars (at least it did, not sure if it does now or not) and when I started down the stairs I was seriously worried that it was some 20th century construct - the marble and lighting reminded me of nothing so much as the inside of the Mausoleum at Edmonton Cemetery. And given how much the mausoleum freaks me out for whatever reason, that only added to my anxiety. I needn't have worried. Through the door was something out of another world - row upon row of elaborately carved (or not, according to the fashion of the time) sarcophagi, amazing examples of funerary art, completely unlike anything I've seen anywhere else, especially from the imperials who died in the 17th century. Again, I don't think my words will do it justice, hopefully the pictures will.

Next stop was the exhibit of imperial treasures. This is essentially a museum showing the crown jewels of the Holy Roman Empire, including some textiles dating back 900 years in near-perfect condition (a coronation robe that was only EVER pulled out for coronations - otherwise it must have been stored in ideal conditions, as the gold thread still sparkled and the scarlet was quite deep), crowns (one dating back to the 1100s), Burgundian treasures (an amazing crystal goblet, some beautifully embroidered mantles), and reliquaries and other religious treasures, including one containing a nail 'from the True Cross'. Very nifty.

At this point, I realized it was 1 pm and I hadn't actually eaten anything, and my Starbucks caramel macchiato just wasn't doing it for me any more (what can I say, I wanted a bit of 'my' life this morning). So I took my friend Pat's advice and sat in an overly priced (this was not part of Pat's suggestion, but I'm on vacation. What the hey) café in the imperial complex and indulged. Chocolate with whipped cream, and topfenstrudel (a sort of cream-cheese-curd-y strudel). A totally balanced meal, right? Definitely a good way to while away some time.

Wandered through the volksgartens in an attempt to get to the Rathaus... Unfortunately the platz is covered right now by the trappings of a film festival, which I'm sure would be pretty cool to go see, but sadly makes for bad tourist photos. Decided to head back to the imperial palace and check out one more museum there - armour/'ancient' instruments. Awesome. So... much... stuff... I can see why they sell annual passes. It's kinda like Austria's attempt at the Smithsonian, this place, I think. For me the highlight was the audioguide, which played recordings of people playing pieces on several of the musical instruments, some if which I'd certainly never heard before (now I know what virginals sound like, for example!). I was there for most of the afternoon, ogling, wishing I could sit down at a lot of those keyboards and play.

But soon duty called. The epic jersey hunt was on. I'd spotted several stores that might have them, and checked out about half a dozen. Sadly, like Slovenia, Österreich jerseys apparently aren't all that popular (although this is slightly less surprising given that they didn't make the Cup) this year. No kids' sizes to be found, so I finally had to settle on a men's medium. Still huge, but not quite swimming in it, which is good. I took it back to the hostel, and picked up my washed and (badly) folded laundry. But, really, it cost me 4 € in Venice to do my _own _ laundry, so €4 to have someone else do it? I'm thrilled! The things that amuse me when I'm on vacation, eh?

Had dinner on the patio of a restaurant in the Museums Quartier, and just people-watched as the sun set.


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