The Pyrenees

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Just about everything that was wrong with yesterday was right with today. Sitting outside eating breakfast with the other guests brought a level of sanity to this insane trip. The chat was congenial and the sun quickly lifted the temperature to 22c. This was the most expensive stop on the trip but I have to say, the nicest. I could even forgive the cat that left its dirty poor prints on the bike seat.

The morning weather carried on into afternoon in the same way. Pretty much clear blue sky from Arles to the Pyrenees. The roads were by and large quiet, although windy. We had a couple of service stops as we followed the Mediterranean coast line towards Spain, and the ever looming mountains which will be our playground for the next few days. Yes, we were going to stay in the same hotel for 2 nights and have a rest. Partly because we have never been to Andorra, and partly because we miss calculated the stops across the south of France so was a day ahead of schedule. It wasn't until we hit the foothills of the mountains that we had any rain. We had seen it in the distance for a few miles and thought we would miss it. Then the route turned and we were heading straight for it. Eventually we got caught in a heavy downpour. Not nice as we were in our jeans rather than waterproofs. What had been such comfortable attire all day, was now seriously soggy and cold. It didn't last long though and 20 miles further we were almost dry again. As we climbed into the mountains the dark clouds lingered so we stopped and put on our banana pants. These are bright yellow, thats YELLOW waterproof over trousers. Now everyone could see us coming. We didn't get caught in much more rain but the temperature was falling fast and these also work as good wind stoppers. We looked so dapper as we explored the 17th century walled town of Villefranche-de-Conflent. This is medieval town is a real tourist draw and one we wished we had more time to explore it. Perhaps next time.

The Pyrenees are a different proposition all together from the Alps. Yes, they are high and the roads good fun, but they seem to plateau to reveal a huge basin of flat farm land. Of course to get to the flat bit there was yet another peak. This one, Col de Puymorens, was only 1915 meters. A baby compared to some we have seen, but non the less a peak to be respected. Sorry to say I was caught short and with the absence of any public convenience I had no choice but to find a rock and disrespect it.

Andorra was a real shock. We passed through the boarder check point and suddenly we were in the high rise town of El Pass de la Casa which had more petrol stations than restaurants. It was brightly coloured, probably so it could be found in the winter snow. The road leading out of the town snaked up the mountain side to a view point that seems vertical above it. From there on, and for about 40 miles, we tried in vain to stop for refreshments but it seems Andorra closes for the summer. That is until we reached Andorra La Vella, the capital. This is a manic place with lots of roundabouts, from each of which you take the second exit. A few miles further and we were in Sant Julia del Loria and our hotel Sol Park.

I have had a few drinks now so I can bring myself to talk about the drive up to the hotel. It is a badly paved 45 degree incline of pothole and sink tops that no one on a donkey, let alone a motorcycle should be made to climb. About half way up I missed a turn and ended up having to reverse the bike, back down this cliff face. Julia had already abandoned ship and was now offering moral support and guiding me backwards. Once I reached the turn and relative safety, the rest of the ride into the carpark was slightly less challenging, but only slightly. Having ridden so far and tackled so much, I can tell you now, I almost dropped the bike getting into a car park. The shame of it. I think we will walk everywhere in Andorra.

Once checked in we did walk, we covered most of the town looking for food but the only place that was serving before 8pm was McD's. As we had hardly eaten since 8 am and it was now 6 pm we gave up and went inside. It was deserted, save for the sound of screaming children upstairs. Big Chicken Macs and a thimble full of that strange black tar that qualifies for coffee and we were almost human again.

Tomorrow we will explore the town, tonight we will explore Sky TV and a couple of bottles of wine we picked up on the way.



Have a good 'un

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